Parking Brake won't release

[SGTStewart]

Wanted to take the deuce out for winter snow ride tonight but the parking brake would not release. It feels like the cable isn't moving. I drove the truck last night without any problems. It is cold out but I don't think it is that cold. I did soak both ends of the cable with PB breakfree before coming back into the house. I will take another look at it during daylight hours. This is the new style parking brake. Any other idea's would be welcomed.

 

[tm america]

im sure its probably frozen i would tap on the drum with a hammer or heat it up and see what happens .it doesnt have to be that cold just a little moisture in the air and wam if freezes

 

[kc5mzd]

Could there be ice?
I might try starting the truck and letting it warm up for up to an hour or so to see if there might be moisture that froze something. The heat from the engine should melt it if that is the problem.

 

[SGTStewart]

I did drive it around the block hoping that it would release. No luck. Back in the driveway and under it with a hammer I did go. Would not release and the drum was very hot. I even greased all the grease points to see if that would help. No Go.

 

[tm america]

i have had my ebrake freeze a couple of times ussually i put the transfer case in low and just give it a little jolt and it pops free.but you might want to start the truck put the transfer case in neutral trans in third and let it warm up like that it will get the trans and transfer case warmed up as well

 

[tm america]

try tapping the handle on the inside near the bottom with a small hammer i have seen them stick there to

 

[SGTStewart]

I will try that in the morning. Last resort I will have to disconect it so I can get it inside someplace to work on it out of the weather.

 

[rlwm211]

As I write, my parking brake is stuck on. It is not a problem with the brake shoe freezing to the drum or any issue with the machanical linkage. It is due to a frozen cable.

I looked mine over and the frozen section is in the portion of the cable where it lays horizontal between the frame and the top of the transfer case where it turns up towards the arm. I loosened the adjusting nut and free'd the brake so the truck can be moved. I am reluctant to drive it on the road without the e-brake due to the various brake issues deuces are capable of having.

The cure will be to remove the cable assembly and bring it into a heated area. That is assuming that it will not be above freezing here where I live. It has not been above freezing for two weeks at this point.

Once thawed I will force a silicone based lubricant through the entire housing and then re-install the housing/cable assembly. My logic is that the silicone based lube will displace any moisture and then by filling the void also not allow moisture to migrate in. While I have it off the truck I will pay particular attention to the quality of the rubber jacket on the outside of the houising and make repairs to any area that looks like it can leak.

I suspect the location where the clamp is on the cable housing on the inside of the frame rail is where the water found its way in. Judging by the movement of the housing when the lever is actuated this is where the cable itself it is not moving.

Hope this helps

RL

 

[dittle]

Just back the nut off until you get it inside. If you have a topedo heater or even one of those small propane heaters should be enough to get it to free up. I pulled mine in March and filled it with liquid graphite, but I don't know if its re-frozen or not. Going to check when I get home.

I also don't use the parking brake in the winter time just because of this, but I have a flat spot in the yard and about 2' of snow in front of my truck so I don't have to worry about it going anywhere.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Most of the time the shoes just stick to the drum, but it does sounds like your cable is the problem like you say. As for your cable freezing, and to keep it from freezing, remove it from the truck and lube it. As long as it's good and lubed, it should not give you any more problems.


For what its worth....

I don't use the parking brake unless for just a short period of time (fueling up, running into a store or stoping at a friends house)

If it's going to be parked for any extended time, just use wheel chocks.

 

[Scarecrow1]

I would agree with the cable issues it's not like likely the shoes would still be frozen after you drove it around the block, Ive seen the shoes start to burn after a hundred feet of travel , so I know it had enough heat to melt of any ice around it .........

 

[glcaines]

I haven't had problems with my Deuce cable freezing up, but I have had other vehicles e-brake cables freeze up. Dittle's idea of the torpedo heater is a very good one. I have done this and it works well - just make sure you aren't cooking anything under your truck with it.

 

[SGTStewart]

Thanks with the help guys. Just came in from plowing out the driveway, while the plow truck was warming, I checked the deuce out. The parking brake is now free. It is now 36 deg. So mabey a little bit of penetrating oil and 4 deg above freezing helped. Glad winter is almost over.

 

[tm america]

i would check the cable for cracks it shouldnt be getting water on the inside of the cable to freeze. any hole in the outer cable will cause water to get in making it possible for it to freeze again

 

[SGTStewart]

I did notice that the coating on the cable is missing about a half inch at the end under the cab. I sprayed it down with PB, so I'll have to wait and see if there will be any more poblems. (Fingers Crossed )

 

[WS2811]

I just finished replacing my e-brake cable for the same problem. Water must have gotten into it through some of the cracks and it froze up solid. It's to early in the winter to have to deal with this again.

 

[kc5mzd]

Your best bet is to leave it in gear at the end of the day. Put the transfercase in low and then put it in 1st gear. If you are on a hill you should also turn the wheel into a curb and block the rear tires. You can come out a few hrs later and put the parking brake on. If you let it cool before you put the parking brake on it won't freeze. I think there is a TM somewhere that tells you not to use the parking brake when you will be stoping long enough to turn the engine off. Also i think the heat from the engine at idle might be enough to melt the ice in the cable. Also if you have disconected it and can drive I would just drive it and when you get to your destination it should be free enough to hook back up.

Just remember that if it is below freezing and you will be stoped long enough to shut the enging down don't use the parking brake.

 

[Keith_J]

If you park in gear, keep the engine stop pulled out!

This is very important if the vehicle could be bumped.

 

[fasttruck]

Running m35 stationery with transfer case in neutral and transmission in gear is not recommended unless vehicle has transfer pto like a m49. no lube in transfer unless vehicle is moving. Also doubt heat from engine would thaw a brake cable. If engine is spinning it will start with a breath of ether in aircleaner. But do not do this if your unit has a manifold heater and it is on: one or ther other, newer trucks have an ether kit that meters a measured ammount into engine to start it. Problem starting in 30 degree weagther may be because of too small batteries described, They will all start in the summer but green machine uses those 6tls to get the engine spinning in artic conditions.

 

[kc5mzd]

If you park in gear, keep the engine stop pulled out!

This is very important if the vehicle could be bumped.

Good point, if it is on a hill it might not even need to be bumped to start.