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Part number help for M1083A1

VVFD

New member
22
1
3
Location
Vanderpool, Texas
Need some part number help for M1083A1. We just got one to convert to a brush truck for our fire department. We are missing 3 of the 4 drain plugs for the cab floor. The manual shows a plug and the part number is for a duckbill drain. Can't seem to find anywhere that sells them. Also, there are two holes on each side of the cab and the duckbill goes in the larger hole. What goes in the smaller hole? Here are pics of the duckbill plug and a pic of the two holes. Any help or advice would be appreciated.IMG_6685.jpgIMG_6686.jpgIMG_6687.jpg
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
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North of Cincy OH
Look at them real close.. see if there are any markings.. maybe a manufacture stamp.. a crest you might say..... anything that might lead you somewhere. Odds are they are a commercial product ...
check boat duck bill drain plugs? Maybe West Marine

https://www.amazon.com/DUCKBILL-RUB...75407&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=duckbill+rubber


Might be able to dig around and find something similar?

This is from a Whirlpool https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-8201796-Grommet/dp/B00ECV23XK

maybe from these folk??? http://www.partdeal.com/catalogsearch/result/?o=duckbill&q=duck+bill
 
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Zeke

Member
31
2
8
Location
Genesee County/NY
Anyone direct me to the M1083 wo Winch Tech manual for O&M and a parts manual. Just received a 1083 and its missing some parts. intercooler hoses, turbo hoses, and some rear brake hoses. 2320-01-354-3386
 

VVFD

New member
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Location
Vanderpool, Texas
Looked it over real good and the only marking is a ' + ' on the underside of the lip.

I did find a site with all kinds of duckbill drains... just need to go through all the ones that look like what I have and compare measurements.

We are also thinking about just finding a generic rubber plug to plug the holes. If we need to wash out or drain water, we'll just pull the plug.

-Al

Look at them real close.. see if there are any markings.. maybe a manufacture stamp.. a crest you might say..... anything that might lead you somewhere. Odds are they are a commercial product ...
check boat duck bill drain plugs? Maybe West Marine

https://www.amazon.com/DUCKBILL-RUB...75407&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=duckbill+rubber


Might be able to dig around and find something similar?

This is from a Whirlpool https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-8201796-Grommet/dp/B00ECV23XK

maybe from these folk??? http://www.partdeal.com/catalogsearch/result/?o=duckbill&q=duck+bill
 

Zeke

Member
31
2
8
Location
Genesee County/NY
20180116_121911.jpg I am having issues finding the module missing from under the dash. Anyone know whats missing from the passenger side? Air lines open and whatnot. I put a plug in the air lek so far.
 
105
11
18
Location
Belgrade, Montana
You're looking for a Dana/Eaton CTIS Single Channel Pneumatic Control Unit (PCU) - we may have one - PM me tomorrow and I'll check. I can't tell from pix - you may also be missing the CTIS control cable - post a pic of any disconnected cable ends that are in that area.

PCU.jpg
 

VVFD

New member
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1
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Location
Vanderpool, Texas
Well, gave up on finding the 'duckbill' plugs for the size we needed. Found some rubber plugs at the local hardware for the 1" and 3/4" holes... just plugged the suckers! If we need to drain any water out, we'll just pull the plug(s).
Also went to Tractor Supply and got some 1/4" heavy duty rubber sheeting to make some nice floor mats. Made a template with cardboard, then traced and cut the rubber mat. Just installed with a snug fit in case we need to remove to vacuum mud and trash or get to the drain plugs.
Passenger Before.jpgPassenger After.jpg
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Mason, TN
Well, gave up on finding the 'duckbill' plugs for the size we needed. Found some rubber plugs at the local hardware for the 1" and 3/4" holes... just plugged the suckers! If we need to drain any water out, we'll just pull the plug(s).
Also went to Tractor Supply and got some 1/4" heavy duty rubber sheeting to make some nice floor mats. Made a template with cardboard, then traced and cut the rubber mat. Just installed with a snug fit in case we need to remove to vacuum mud and trash or get to the drain plugs.
View attachment 720261View attachment 720262
The horse stall mats at tractor supply contain fiberglass and rubber. They can drop floor temps by 10 degrees

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

VVFD

New member
22
1
3
Location
Vanderpool, Texas
Back again looking for M1083A1 parts info:
Someone told me that all the M1083A1's that had door locks all used the same key; just wondering if anyone knows?
I am looking for a key for ours. We did not get a key from the surplus folks and it appears to be real easy for the door lock to be engaged when exiting the truck... without a key, we could be in real trouble.
Now if I can't find a common key to all M1083A1's, then I'm looking for blanks to have keys made. Our local locksmith said he would help if we could get him some blanks.
So, who has some knowledge and is willing to share. Here is a picture of the style of door handle lock we have.Handle.jpg
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
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Location
North of Cincy OH
Back again looking for M1083A1 parts info:
Someone told me that all the M1083A1's that had door locks all used the same key; just wondering if anyone knows?...
Learning to use your favorite search engine's Advanced Search feature for a particular website makes finding info. pretty quick. Quick search comes up with

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?140892-LMTV-door-lock-key

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?152582-FMTV-Door-Key

could of swore there was a post only days ago on this topic too. UPDATE.. found it. Newer model handle but the concept might still apply. see
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...Chassis-Swap&p=2108922&viewfull=1#post2108922
 
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VVFD

New member
22
1
3
Location
Vanderpool, Texas
Lock Experts.... some assistance please.
I took our M1083A passenger door apart today to get to the door handle lock. All the posts seem to indicate I needed the code from the back side of the lock assembly. We are in need of keys for our doors, so we don't lock ourselves out of the truck. Some have stated that you can lock the door with the lock handle (on the inside) and shut the door... and it won't lock... WRONG, ours locks when the door is shut... so we need keys.
Our code on the back of the lock is '011' and there is a small 's' stamped in the center of the shaft that runs through the lock. Can someone tell me what lock we have and what blank is needed to have useable keys made from?
DoorLock.jpg
 

VVFD

New member
22
1
3
Location
Vanderpool, Texas
Door Lock Problem resolved.
Locksmith friend for a town a few miles away came by to help. He brought all his tools and a box full of different blanks. We removed the passenger keyed door handle and began trying different blanks to see which one worked the best. He found a very old Datsun (now Nissan) door blank. Took the lock out of the door handle and removed the 6 wafers to get the wafer codes. He then began cutting the blank key to each of the 6 codes. Put the wafers back into the lock, put the lock back into the door handle and the key worked great. The passenger door now locks and unlocks.
But No... the driver's door had to be different...
The new key did not work the lock. Took the driver's door keyed door handle out and found the lock code to be different. Took the lock out of the handle and discovered there were only 3 remaining wafers (someone removed the other three). These wafers had the same codes as the wafers in the passenger door, but in different positions. My friend rearranged the wafers in positions that match the passenger door. Put the lock back into the handle and reinstalled back into the door. The driver's door now locks and unlocks with the same key as the passenger door.
Took us about 5 hours, all total... sure glad the locksmith was my friend and he agreed to help out the fire department.
 
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