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Parts 803a a (making it a runner)

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
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Howdy,
The unit could have been sitting for a long time. The switches could be in need of some TLC, was the engine surging?

Water in the fuel?
Drain and clean the fuel system. Change out all filters. Fill with fresh diesel with additives of your choice.

You need to start with a good baseline and work up to a issue.

Start a new thread with your issue if unresolved.

Start up routine MEP-8xx

Quick link to start a new thread https://www.steelsoldiers.com/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=55
 
Last edited:

Guyfang

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If you can make a gasket using cork, why not. My all time favorite gasket material is TM back covers. The perfect gasket material!! There are some tool manufacturers, who make tools to make gaskets. Snap On for one. I found a set of tools on the side of the street in schweinfurt one day, and they work VERY good. Try it. Worse thing that can happen is it dont work.
 

DieselAddict

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Efland, NC
An old set of leather working tools (punches and chisels) is great for cutting gaskets. You can sometimes find them in old thrift shops and estate sales.
 

TheAlfredo

Member
165
11
18
Location
Miami, FL
Thank you Howdy.
Yesterday when I started it for the first time, it was running up and down...engine didn't have a steady RPM...and voltage was low.

This morning I started it and brought my digital meter to check Voltage and Hertz...both were perfect and the engine was running steady. I then changed the oil, to put break in oil, as I didn't know what was in there. Oil was milky...hoping it was condensation and not in need of major engine work.

It didn't have much diesel...actually used it all up today. Put in 5 fresh gallons. It then was running like it did yesterday...not a steady RPM, low voltage and Hertz going up and down.

I will add that both yesterday and today....when I went to restart it was a hot engine...it would not restart. It would just crank...just as if I was using the dead crank.

Hopefully someone will have some insight on these issues and I can try and correct them tomorrow.

Howdy,
The unit could have been sitting for a long time. The switches could be in need of some TLC, was the engine surging?

Water in the fuel?
Drain and clean the fuel system. Change out all filters. Fill with fresh diesel with additives of your choice.

You need to start with a good baseline and work up to a issue.

Start a new thread with your issue if unresolved.

Start up routine MEP-8xx

Quick link to start a new thread https://www.steelsoldiers.com/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=55
 

Guyfang

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Alfredo,

You started a thread on your set. Post in that thread. You make everyone confused, when you post in two different threads. And a moderator will sooner or later tell you to stop. Believe me, you will get more help in your thread, then here in this one. Old farts like me have a hard enough time keeping things straight.
 

NATCAD

Active member
241
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28
Location
Port Huron Michigan
Can anyone recommend a good source for original Lister petter parts?

My local generator service place have them, but are charging $11 per exhaust manifold gasket i.e. $44 for the set.
I can wait a week while the motor bathes in diesel
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
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Howdy,
Type those part numbers or nsn into google.

auction site has a 5 pack
 

NATCAD

Active member
241
50
28
Location
Port Huron Michigan
Hello and good afternoon, I have the following to report on this unit "302"

After sitting with diesel for 5 months, and being bar'ed over intermittently during that period, it was free spinning and seized.

So we did the following:
R&R all filters and all
fluids. Clean battery cables ends and terminals. Start unit
(properly grounded). Was stubborn to start. Once started ran
nicely and "cleanly". Noted bubbles in coolant expansion tank as soon as started.
After 10 minutes noted large audible POP and the head gasket
blew between head and block. Temp gauge appeared to work.

Question:

What else should be replaced when we do head gasket? Should we do water pump? Should I get a complete gasket kit from lister and do it all?

The goal is to get this up and running and load test it.
 

NATCAD

Active member
241
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28
Location
Port Huron Michigan
I am also still looking for a door,

Facing the control panel it is the right hand swing out door.

Also missing the instrument protection panel.

(have hinges for both)

If anyone wants to sell.
 

NATCAD

Active member
241
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Location
Port Huron Michigan
Hi Mike, and others ... would you replace the waterpump when doing the head gasket?

Would you buy the top-end de-carb kit for the $100 ?

Waterpumps seem to be pricey, have been quoted $290 for them...

How many hours should all this take to change if I was paying someone to do it?
 

smokem joe

Active member
499
68
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Location
Green OH
I am also still looking for a door,

Facing the control panel it is the right hand swing out door.

Also missing the instrument protection panel.

(have hinges for both)

If anyone wants to sell.

I should have both in a month or so. I have 2 units I am going to combine to make one running unit...hopefully!
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Va
Howdy,
I wish I could give you some guidance.
There is a thread somewhere talking about water pumps which fit and work.
Onan DN2M and DN4M
Lister LPW2 and LPW4

If I remember correctly, there are a few styles of the head gaskets (joints) out there. Some are better than others. Thickness also. This might have been way back in rebuilding 3 units by PClausen
I know its a long thread, but , very detailed.

Replace water pump. ummm I wonder if the bubbles were saying something. It might say its time to replace it, but I can not be sure. Maybe Guy has some input with tell-tale signs of needing to be replaced.

Gasket sets... prices are all over the place. It really depends on what all is needed when you get it broken down. I do know that a lot of complete kits do NOT have the head gasket... so watch for that little details when purchasing a kit.
 

Zed254

Well-known member
866
467
63
Location
S. Hampton Roads, VA
Last edited:

jamawieb

Well-known member
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Location
Ripley/TN
You can check the water pump by wiggling the fan back and forth. If there is a lot of movement, go ahead and replace it. If it moves noticeable, then replace. A new water pump will not move and a slightly worn bearing will move just a little.
By chance did you remove the dip stick to see if you have a lot of blow by?
If it were me, I would just replace the head gasket and see if that works. If you have a lot of time, I would pull the piston and replace the rings, while your in there.
To replace the head gasket, should take the first timer 6-8 hours. When you've done it a couple of times, it will only take 3-4 hours. 45 minutes of that is waiting on the hydraulic lifters to settle. The manual says to wait 45 minutes to re-torque the valves.
Hello and good afternoon, I have the following to report on this unit "302"

After sitting with diesel for 5 months, and being bar'ed over intermittently during that period, it was free spinning and seized.

So we did the following:
R&R all filters and all
fluids. Clean battery cables ends and terminals. Start unit
(properly grounded). Was stubborn to start. Once started ran
nicely and "cleanly". Noted bubbles in coolant expansion tank as soon as started.
After 10 minutes noted large audible POP and the head gasket
blew between head and block. Temp gauge appeared to work.

Question:

What else should be replaced when we do head gasket? Should we do water pump? Should I get a complete gasket kit from lister and do it all?

The goal is to get this up and running and load test it.
 
Last edited:

Guyfang

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Jamaweib said it all about the water pump. And it's an easy job, if you have to change it. Well, getting at it requires some work. Be carful of the radiator.
 

NATCAD

Active member
241
50
28
Location
Port Huron Michigan
Jamaweib said it all about the water pump. And it's an easy job, if you have to change it. Well, getting at it requires some work. Be carful of the radiator.
This generator is up and running now (waterpump good no play) surprised at cost of thermostat ($68 !) and has about 4 hours of run time on it. Needs a door still and is ready for duty.
 
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