Patracy's "SEMTT"

[wheelspinner]

I have a bunch of left over NOS micellaneous wire harnesses with 6 - 10 wires with color code and numbering. They are from commercial vehicles and never installed. If you want to throw a few bucks for shipping them, it might make it easier to extend as they will be different colors. Let me know.

 

[marchplumber]

One step at a time! Looks good. Thanks for sharing.

God bless,
Tony

 

[patracy]

I have a bunch of left over NOS micellaneous wire harnesses with 6 - 10 wires with color code and numbering. They are from commercial vehicles and never installed. If you want to throw a few bucks for shipping them, it might make it easier to extend as they will be different colors. Let me know.

Honestly, I'm just going to use black wire. Cut, solder, shrink, solder, shrink, rinse repeat. One by one. It'll be time consuming, but it should look "factory" when finished.

 

[patracy]

I would like to congratulate AM General for accomplishing the impossible. They were able to fit the proverbial square peg in a round hole when it came to the harness. After a couple of hours I managed to tear down the dash and label wire ends and push them back out the firewall. I believe I won't have to extend the entire harness. Just the section that affixes outside to the driver side cab fender. (I believe that's the tail light harness) It appears that most of the engine harness loops around the intake. I should be able to unloop it and reroute everything back to the MK48 cab. I also will probably re-use the 931's firewall grommet and just add a opening in the doghouse of the MK48 cab to pass the harness into the cab. Soni's approach of new weatherhead connectors are nice. But basically I would need to rewire the entire truck to go that approach due to the 931's harness design. I will probably compromise in areas when it comes to the two harnesses. A blend of MK48 parts will have to happen (high low switch, possibly the turn signal switch, exc.)

I'm actually "off" for the most part tomorrow. I only have a conf call I have to be in and two chores to run in town. So my goal for tomorrow is to finish removing the harness from the engine firewall and reroute everything and at least get inside the MK48 cab. I hope I'll have the electricals buttoned up by thursday/friday of this week as that's when more parts are due in. I will then proceed with the steering, throttle, and transmission shifter cable.

 

[Danger Ranger]

Glad to hear you are making such great progress with this. I look forward to seeing it complete soon. Good luck.

 

[silverstate55]

One heck of a lot of work; I commend your courage in tackling it! Please see it through to the end, this is fascinating!!

 

[patracy]

Quick "going in the house for a glass of water" update.

Engine harness removed from firewall. Harness re-routed and extended (engine only, tail signal hasn't been touched yet). MK48 cab harness gutted and cleared out. About to get the hole saw out and start passing the M931 harness back in.

 

[DUG]

Stay hydrated.

Quick "going in the house for a glass of water" update.

Engine harness removed from firewall. Harness re-routed and extended (engine only, tail signal hasn't been touched yet). MK48 cab harness gutted and cleared out. About to get the hole saw out and start passing the M931 harness back in.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

Uh, your parking brakes can be actuated by a normal air control valve, which I think is fitted into the cab already? The stock lever actuates a valve like it, and a cable to a mechanical parking brake on the transfer output like in the deuce and 800 series. Parking brakes on a M900 series are spring air chamber, like OTR trucks. If it were me, I would either delete the mechanical parking brake, or you can get a small air brake chamber or cylinder, and make it air operated, like the rest of the air brake chambers.

I would think this would be easier than finding a spot for the lever and getting the cable and routing down.

And BTW, you currently have a crew cab M931! lol

 

[patracy]

Good point Adam. Deleting the lever completely is the way to go. I'll leave the drum brake on the t-case, later on I'll find a use for it.

Yeah it's a "crew cab" 931 at the moment. Man is it an ugly one though...

Hit a few stumbles along the way this afternoon. I had to extend more of the harness in the engine section once I started moving the harness into the cab. That has been taken care of though. I've currently got the 931 harness sitting in the "doghouse pan" of the cab. I'm going to just use the dash connector and sections of that harness to adapt to it. The doghouse pan will be where all the dirty work happens on this. I've traced out the oil pressure, water temp, trans temp, and fuel gauge leads on the harness and have them tied up to the corresponding plug on the 931 harness.

Tomorrow I plan on getting the harness merged and the power/starter switches installed/wired. Also need to get the front headlight/signals wired in as well. As well as extend the tail signal harness.

Also I was kinda looking at the steering column. Instead of the keyed shaft, I might try re-purposing that shaft and weld it into my parallel box if it's long enough. That way I'd end up with only ONE keyed shaft yoke in the entire setup (a lot more safe IMO).

 

[patracy]

Also having the doghouse pan open, I wonder if there's room for my AC system's unit to fit inside of there. But that'll be a project for another day!

 

[papabear]

I sure hope you can bring that rascal to Zout's cookout!! I would love to see it up close.opcorn:

 

[215Dave]

Looks amazing! Keep up the good work. Pictures are worth thousands of words...

 

[patracy]

Yay, I apparently still know how to trace a wiring harness and follow diagrams! (Yes boys and girls, the TM's ARE useful!) The M931/MK48's ABS system ran through is startup sequence and cleared the ABS light. I was also able to start, run, and shut down the engine from the new cab. Oh and the tail lights/turn signals work. Maybe if I still have some energy left tomorrow evening I'll get the front headlights and signals wired in. Then it's on to the gauges (got the signal wires already done), dash lights, exc.

I must admit, I did have a head scratching moment for a little while. Well twice actually. At first I had nothing. Then I realized there was a ground strap that was loose (as well as the PCB wasn't mounted) underneath the cab. As luck would have it, the PCB's mounting tabs are exactly the same spacing as two of the frame bolts. A quick drilling session with a 1/2" bit and that was that.

So I climbed back into the cab. I was greeted by the "clicky" sounds the PCB and ABS system make on power up. So I hit the magic button. Nothing. Then I realized, you dummy , the shifter connector is dangling under the cab as well. (Neutral Safety Switch) A quick jumper wire and I climbed back into the cab and it roared to life.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Don't you love it when a plan comes together!!

 

[Farmallmilitary]

I haven't been seeing pictures lately. Hint. Hint.

 

[212sparky]

how about some video opcorn:

 

[patracy]

I haven't been seeing pictures lately. Hint. Hint.

how about some video opcorn:

I get the drift. You wanted pics of a rats nest, you got em.

I didn't do anything today, it was after 8pm when I got home. Plus it's raining. Maybe tomorrow I'll get some more wiring knocked out. The wires hanging from the visors are ones to address later on (speedo, tach). I've still got a good deal to go. I did pick up a keyed starter switch that I'll be swapping in for the stock 931 starter switch. I'm thinking about trying the tach signal leads from the STE/ICE leads to the tach to see if I'm lucky. (Doubt it, but it's worth a try) Thought about trying to see if I can get a signal from the ABS system as well for the speedo. Again, doubt it, but why not try...

Oh and can I fit one of those engines in my CUCV?

 

[patracy]

And yes, the masking tape is getto. But it was the easiest thing I had to flag the wires during removal. (It's NOT to insulate anything)

 

[m-35tom]

check out a company called DAKOTA DIGITAL, they make digital converters that are programable to do just the sort of thing you may want. i used one in my subaru conversion to get a speedo sig from the abs sensor, it was very easy and can be calibrated with a gps. (98 outback with 06 sti drive train)