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Pic thread? Looking for m1008's with minimal lift.

4bogginchevys

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I disagree, running a wide tire on a narrow wheel will inevitably wear the center of the tire faster than the edges. That is if you inflate it to the proper pressure. Tire stores wont honor tread wear mileage warranties in situations like this aswell.2cents
 

AJMBLAZER

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Yeah, cause I don't know a bunch of folks who have run wide tires on narrower rims for tens of thousands of miles or so...

The proper pressure is a matter of vehicle weight distribution + tire size + rim width. You have to find that out yourself...it's not a sticker on the door.

FWIW about 8 years ago when the Swamper LTB's were new a friend of mine got over 30k on a set of 33x13.5-16's on 16x8's under a 3/4 ton Chevy. Regular rotation and he figured out the correct psi for them.
 

4bogginchevys

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OK, i'll admit that super swampers are the exception to the rule. They count side lug as tread width as it will appear aired down. For a standard steel belted tire the rules definately apply though. What I dont like about swampers is when they come in UPS and 38/14.5/16 really means 36/10.5/16 (width = contact patch) inflated to 20-25 psi on or off the truck. They measure tread width aired down, and stretch the truth on height when aired up to pavement pressure. I see your point, but swamper makes their own rules, and unfortunately the rest of the bias/offroad market follows suit.2cents

btw: I do know a steel belted 14.5 is really 12.5...(contact patch)....still needs a 10" wheel
 
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AJMBLAZER

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Uhm, the side lugs should touch the ground. The tread should roll flat across the ground at driving psi, not just aired down. Tires aren't meant to be so over inflated they're round even on the bottom.

You're not one of those guys driving around with big ass tires running 30-40psi in them, are you? No tread in the center but nearly pristine side lugs?
 

allrevup

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If you are also goin to drive on pavement, Other then for garage limitations or if I actually used the truck to cargo 1 ton..
I would not limit myself to 4" lift to fit 36"- 37". The vertical difference to a good 5.5"-6" is only marginal and with better body clearance.
You can modify stock springs... remove or add leaves, ad blocks, longer & reverse shackles, etc. and at the end of the day you can FIT the tires and maybe get articulation but this is an opportunity to actually improve the suspension by using longer and well design springs, instead of OLD none progressive stiff cargo springs.
 
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AJMBLAZER

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Contact patch where I come from is corner to corner, not "side wall"
You said side tread above, not side wall.
If you are also goin to drive on pavement, Other then for garage limitations or if I actually used the truck to cargo 1 ton..
I would not limit myself to 4" lift to fit 36"- 37". The vertical difference to a good 5.5"-6" is only marginal and with better body clearance.
You can modify stock springs... remove or add leaves, ad blocks, longer & reverse shackles, etc. and at the end of the day you can FIT the tires and maybe get articulation but this is an opportunity to actually improve the suspension by using longer and well design springs, instead of OLD none progressive stiff cargo springs.
My issue is height. It'll be a long time before I can have a pole barn or garage with a door and ceiling high enough to fit Big Ugly with 4" of suspension lift. As it is now mine clears a true 7' door jamb with about 1.5" of space.
 

gwag

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They are pretty sluggish on the bigger tires even with the lower gears. it's just a lot of weight & rotating mass for the 6.2 to spin.
 

AJMBLAZER

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They are pretty sluggish on the bigger tires even with the lower gears. it's just a lot of weight & rotating mass for the 6.2 to spin.
Eh, dunno about that. With the gearing it's about like 3.73's and 32-33's on a stock truck.

If you expect the performance of a warmed up small block or a big block...you'll be disappointed...if you just expect the performance of a 6.2L it's not bad. I found that instead of bouncing it off the rev limiter and roaring around everywhere it's now much more drivable and quiet. With the smaller tires it always seemed like I was shooting through the gear changes and then all of a sudden roaring along at my rev limiter while now I can actually hold a gear under 40mph and it isn't at peak rpm doing 55mph.
 

puppy

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Well I guess all the thinking and looking is over. Its gonna be 8" suspension and 385 XML's on 16x10's. Going for a stock 1028 with some attitude look.
 

puppy

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thats why you need a 454 to turn the 38's :p

My '84 1008 does have a 461 CID Big Block Chevy.

The lift is going on the '86 1028. All bolt on with no sheetmetal trimming, just in case I ever want to bring it back to stock. It is one of the straightest CUCV's I have ever seen. I guess it being an Air Force truck, it lived an easy life.
 

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Croatan_Kid

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New Bern, NC
AJM, my truck fits in my shop through a 7' door, it barely rubs the top of the cab on the shop door's weather stripping. Weird huh? I'm certainly glad it fits though!
 

allrevup

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Location
Delaware
Hey Croatan_kid:

I would really like to have your engine, tranny and T/C in my M1008 but the extra unsprung weight of that hardware probable compresses your suspension just enough to squeeze into said garage. [thumbzup]
Just curious, After All your upgrades 6BT +400lbs.+NV4500__?Lbs. suspension, hydro assist , Michelin XZL, etc, etc,...
Do you know your curve weight? originally +/_ 5,900 lbs. for M1008, +/_ 6,200 for the M1028A1
 

Croatan_Kid

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New Bern, NC
Well, I figure it this way. My front springs were quite saggy, 5" of lift up front with an 1100 pound motor hanging up there, and my tires are probably half an inch shorter being on a wider wheel....I'd reckon that'd be about right, at least it seems that way. Who knows, I'll take some measurements of my truck, the shop door, and a picture just for fun.


I've figured up the weight before. I weighed it once with the 6.2 and 700R4 in it at the local scrapyard. With a full tank of fuel and me in the truck it was 5940 pounds (lifted + tires). I figured the motor added about 500, trans added somewhere around 200 pounds with the clutch, flywheel and all that, and the transfer case might have added 75 pounds or so then throw in a few pounds for miscellanious crap. I'd say somewhere between 6500 & 7000 pounds. I'm planning to haul off some stuff on Friday, I'll let you know how much it weighs.
 

AJMBLAZER

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Yeah, lots of variables and you do have a boat anchor (weight wise) of an engine in there.

I always laugh when people say they have a 6" lift and then start assuming it really is 6".
 
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