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Pics from floor replacement on M1009

ida34

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Dexter, MI
Is ther an easy way to remove the rubberized coating on thr floorboard? Mine is worn and I want to Herculine the whole thing. Nice Dog! I have a 100lb German Shepard too!

Mine had a regular work truck style rubber liner with the sound deadening pad on the back. Like carpet but with rubber instead of pile carpet. No undercoating was on anything.
 

ramtoughM880

Member
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Wayne, MI
I'm in the process of fixing up a Duster I've had since High School, about 17 years, and am stripping the undercoating off of it.
The easiest way I've found is to heat a putty knife and scrape it, or to just barely "whiff" a handheld propane torch over the stuff, and it comes right off.
Wear a mask for sure, for the stuff most certainly has asbestos in it and you don't wanna breathe that stuff.

Floorpans look good man! Makes me wanna heat the garage so I can work in this cold weather!

JK
 

ida34

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Dexter, MI
More work completed. I worked the seams with bondo and tried to correct some problems with the cheap panel. Still has a few problems that I may work on later or I may let if fly as is. I am probably putting in a new rubber liner so it small problems should not matter. I pulled it out and turned it around. I had to clean the garage and put a starter in my mother's car. Tomorrow starts the cutting on the passenger's side. It is slightly better than the driver's side (before) but has some problems areas the driver's side did not.
 

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ida34

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Dexter, MI
Looks a lot worse than when we picked it up. Pulling the mat out was like pulling the thread on a sweater. Hard to believe a truck in such good shape could have this much rust in the floor.
 

ida34

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Dexter, MI
More work yesterday and today. I cut out the passenger's side and cleaned up all the spot welds. I cut through some of the braces with the plasma so I will need to weld them in and grind them down. I fabricated a replacement for the drive shaft tunnel and cut the old one out. This was after the pics. I also fabricated a new plate for the front cross member. I did not have a panel I need for the front kick panel so I had to order it. I will have to keep busy doing other things while I wait for it. I tried to treat all the surface rust with converter. I need to patch some on the trans tunnel. I also began to work on changing the capture nuts for the seats from the old to the new. I need to trim them off the old floor and rust treat them.
 

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ida34

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Dexter, MI
It has been a while. I am making progress on the passengers side. My son's 16th birthday was today and I need to get it done so he can drive it. I also need it because someone ran a red light and hit me in my daily driver. It is Inop for a while. Back to the task at hand. I also got my M151 delivered today thanks to Stonepicker1. I really want to get started on it when this project is done.
 

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ida34

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Dexter, MI
Got the cab support done and the rear floor in. I had more problems with the lmc panels. The front panel was not LMC and fit better than the LMC panel but the rear panel had problems. The reinforcement rib in the pictures did not match up. I had to cut and move it over about a half inch. I also had to redo the sill lip. It was about a half inch to short and the profile did not match the front panel at all. I made a new sill and attached it. I also began to fab up a side wall repair patch for the B pillar. When that is done and in I will need to start on the outer rocker panel. Then I will be on to paint for the interior and final assembly. Before paint I need to strip out the interior. One thing I see is some rust stains under the rear seat bracket. I may need to do a quick repair back there before paint. I am Figuring about a month or a month and a half before it is done. Even when it is done I will still need to attend to a few items on the exterior then paint the outside. Right now I just need to get it back on the road.
 

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maddawg308

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Great looking work! That floor looked like Swiss cheese before...

Another CUCV saved from the ravages of time!
 

gray_shadow

New member
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Location
Lilburn,GA
Great Job. Reminds me of when I was young (?) and could only afford a rusty old car...and we had a lot of those in nothern Ohio. Never got as good as you are, but we kept things from falling off too often.

Your dog and cat were working hard at their jobs. They were making sure the couch didn't float away (Important stuff for a critter!):-D
 

ida34

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Location
Dexter, MI
I think I was 18 before I had a car with a floorboard. When ever I would hit a mud puddle my legs would get wet. This thing looked pretty good until I took out the floor mat. Thanks for the kind words.
 
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ida34

Well-known member
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33
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Location
Dexter, MI
Next installment. I got the patch panel made and welded it in. I cut out the old rocker and welded the other one in. I still need to grind down the welds and the welds on the bottom of the panels. Prime, bondo, then need wash the interior down for paint. I also need to remove stuff and tape it off. There will be a small amount of rust repair under the seat and the rear support panel.
 

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ida34

Well-known member
4,120
33
48
Location
Dexter, MI
Last week I finished the welding and grinding. I then primed and put down the bondo. I got it sanded down and found all the spots I needed to fix when I out down the primer again. While waiting for stuff to dry I laid down black for the underside of the panels. I also started stripping the interior the rest of the way for paint. Today I finished the bondo touch ups. While waiting for the spot puddy to dry I finished stripping the interior for paint. I also put down the seam sealer. The stuff was not prefect from the factory so I tried to duplicate the same look. I was also going to seal seam on the underside. The did not do it from the factory but it seemed prudent. I ran out of sealer so I will need to get some more. I could not get out the rear seat belt ends and stripped out two 50 star bits trying. There was quite a bit of surface rust. The rear sear mounts at the hinge points had cracked the floor. Also the holes for trim strip near the rear end of the bed were rusted. I cleaned them up and will weld them along with the stress cracks at hte seat mounting points. After sanding, I found the floor to be pretty solid except for three spots at the very rear. The support under the rear of the bed was also really rusted in one spot. I cut out the cancer and made replacement panels for them. I hope to get the welding done this week. Saturday I hope to push it out of the shop wash out the interior. While it is drying I will work on cleaning my shop up. I also have some 2x2 that I will put together to make a front and side wall. I will cover them with plastic and make a holder for some furnace filters. I will also fab up a mount for a fan I have. I will set the fan up to blow outside my shop with more filters outside. This will bring in clean air and make a temp spray booth. If I can get it painted on Sunday then I figure another week to get it back together. I also need to work on the rear brakes and put on two new mufflers.
 

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ida34

Well-known member
4,120
33
48
Location
Dexter, MI
And now the money shot. Put down some Sherwin Williams Carc. Reduced it 4:1 but next time I am going to try 5 o5 6 :1. I am glad I decided to just paint the whole interior instead of trying to blend it in. I still have to touch up a few spots. I also need to weld in new rifle rack bottoms and the jack bracket under the pass seat. I will do the touch up tomorrow. I also have two new doors. I am not planning on putting them on right away but the carc is moisture cure so I want to use as much of the gallon as I can now in case it sets up in the can. To try to prevent this I am putting Argon mix gas in the can but one never knows. The argon displaces the air and moisture in the can. I plan to put the new doors on later as well as fixing some spots here and there. Then I will paint the outside completely.
 

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