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Pitmaster T - Cooking on the MKT

pitmaster t

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61Sleepercab,
There is a small field sink to the left of the griddle, but no running water out of a tap. Some guys use medical field sinks, or make a Field Sanitation trailer out of another MKT that is stripped.

2 and half gallons of diesel, but with a friends home made additive.

John

John I didn't see this. I am going to put my high back hand washing sink there.
012-d-435-400.jpg

However, I have a three bay bar sink that will have to go along the FRONT of the trailer sideways.
eagle-group-b5c-18-3-bowl-under-bar-sink-with-two-13-drainboards-and-splash-mount-faucet-60-long.jpg

I have one that 71 inches.... I will make a rolling rack for it so I COULD take it off and use it off the trailer. I am debating using LP like I did before or make a MBU Burner set up for on board hot water. I already have a pump set up with pressure regulator and that is 12Volt.... soooo .... my 24 volt truck battery is giving way to a double 12 volt set up.... to run stereos, pumps and MBUs... all with a charger of course. Looking in to what kind of potable and waste tank will fit UNDER the trailer. In this state your potable cannot exceed 1 of your waste water storage.

This set up means typically I will have the stairs all in the back.

photo (16).jpg
 

pitmaster t

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I can also, if I remove the M59s... place the sink there with an additional stainless counter over it (so you cannot see it) when the trailer is unfolded. It would have to be stowed inside for travel. But in this way customers could enter in say on the left (M59 side) cross the front... and exit the griddle side (which means sneeze guard of course). There is about a hundred different configs.

Still not sure how the HD will view the ice chest. It may be storing drinks only. LOL. I have temp recording apparatus that can show the temps on that box. Anyone know how many BLOCKS it needs? I have the separator.
 

nattieleather

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I'm wondering about the burners for your MKT? Are those GI? I'm from the days of the gas powered big Coleman stove type of burners and I've not seen ones with push buttons before.

I wonder if you could replace the aluminum griddle with a steel one since that is what you are more comfortable with.

On a side note I had an MKT back in the 1990s that when I got it all it had was the griddle and the two field stoves with no burners. Using the manual I set the griddle up with a double turkey fryer type burners and the stoves with single turkey fryers. I plumbed the whole thing with copper tubing and hooked up to a 100lbs propane tank. I got kitchen cabinets from a second hand store and painted them OD and a cheep counter top and made it work. Fed a lot of guys for the next five or so years until I sold it in early 2000-2001. Sorry I don't have pictures to post.
 

SCSG-G4

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I'm wondering about the burners for your MKT? Are those GI? I'm from the days of the gas powered big Coleman stove type of burners and I've not seen ones with push buttons before.
They are called MBU's (Modern Burner Unit). Replaced the M2 and M2A gasoline burners, electronics are run by 24 V DC, fuel is JP-8 (standard battlefield fuel for tanks, trucks, generators, helicopters and jet fighters and bombers). Much easier to work with, far safer to operate, can be refueled in place without a cool down period. And more!
 

pitmaster t

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They are called MBU's (Modern Burner Unit). Replaced the M2 and M2A gasoline burners, electronics are run by 24 V DC, fuel is JP-8 (standard battlefield fuel for tanks, trucks, generators, helicopters and jet fighters and bombers). Much easier to work with, far safer to operate, can be refueled in place without a cool down period. And more!

Nattie, they are the new ones as Mike wrote. And they are all I ever dreamed of. When you hear about them and you have a business, you sort of worry about them because they are not that easy to find and are so highly technical you worry about their demise. But once you use them... and then start calculating the savings on fuel alone, (LP fuel has incredible loss of heat, weight and is expensive), you soon realize what pieces of gold they are. I am thinking of buying a few that are throwing codes (some sell pretty cheap) and trying to service them. I also look like I will be only using like two to three at a time. So that goes into the equation as well. Note the bulkhead added - diamond back aluminum, oddly lighter than you think.

Your 1990s set up is pretty cool. I am watching Dick Dauguird at Lighthouse Charities make a convoy of these with large aluminum bulkheads and all sorts of gear in them. photo (41).jpg
 

pitmaster t

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On the Griddle replacement, and Mike, please expand if you want because everything you add expands my knowledge....

I could.... I could buy one, I could have one made..... heck... after learning from Mike that they are welded instead of cast I could have another aluminum one made............. but then theres that anodized part you have to worry about.

I am going to be paying attention to how this griddle wears... especially the anodized part..... but I assume you can get it re-anodized........... for a premium price. I plan to probably use the griddle as is. I have yet to determine what I want to do with the M59... will I value it more as a set aside (meaning I can use ONE every now and then and set it aside? I value extra counter space on that side. I can guarantee that any modular component I add will be removable so that if needed the MKT can be returned to its orginal config. This is one of the reasons I got it.....

I am leery of an extra getting a steel griddle for the extra griddle space even though I have talked about it.... the reason being is - griddles are crucial to get dialed in just right. So imagine the nightmare of having two griddles made of entirely different materials next to one another.... that's four different settings.

I confirmed also that laying a saute pan or little pot, even in the corner, can get it to boil. So it works like a normal griddle set up.... which will make my railroad steaks work well. The only problem is... there really is not a cooler spot. But with a double griddle design there could be. I see one griddle for searing things and another for say... tortilla warm ups which always take up a lot of space and you don't want your tortillas soaking up the grease.
 

SCSG-G4

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Yes, the griddles are somewhat finicky. I remember cooking breakfast on one down at the FLA Rally kinda setup on the ground. Actually it was resting on a couple of large logs about 12 inches off the ground, and we had only one small propane stove (a one quart warmer type) to cook on. Where the flame was on the bottom, we could not use on the top, but I had a full 12 inches in all directions about three inches from that little circle which was great for bacon and eggs, and even the far parts of the griddle would keep cooked bacon warm. One of the nice things about these griddles is that you can flip it over if one side gets a little too rough. Been cooking on mine for six years now (since 2008) and haven't needed to flip one yet. YMMV.
 

pitmaster t

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I got two sets of wheels. That size (rubber 3 inchers that are 250lbers) and some 5 inchers which are going on the three bay sink I am making today. Whichever ones I like best... I will remove the old ones and put those on. I have a feeling you are going to be correct. Earlier, I converted a deep fryer to a portable rolling LP fueled version.... I used larger wheels on that too.
 

pitmaster t

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This is also great (if my idea for a power extension works) if I can ever get those Army Sanitation tubs You only have to have two tubs heated. The final sanitation can be chlorinated. So while I still can have 4 unit goin on the MKT... two can be going off deck.
 

SCSG-G4

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I use heat under all three of my FSC sinks, but the MBU under the sanitation sink gets the biggest workout as it stays nearly on full tilt all the time. As a result, it has to be refueled daily. 105 for wash and 130 for rinse is not difficult to maintain, 185+ is.
 

pitmaster t

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Dickinson, Texas
I use heat under all three of my FSC sinks, but the MBU under the sanitation sink gets the biggest workout as it stays nearly on full tilt all the time. As a result, it has to be refueled daily. 105 for wash and 130 for rinse is not difficult to maintain, 185+ is.
The final sanitation rinse does not have to be high as long as you are using a chemical final sanitization like Chlorine is why I said this. That is universal in each state. I made that decision specifically because monitoring and ensuring a temp between 171 and 185 is extremely hard.
 
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