Planetary trunion diameter

[VanisleDave]

Dies anyone have an exact (as in, taken with a micrometer) measurement of the planetary turunions?

I don't have a spare hub cover to carve up and make into a suim preloading tool, so just going to make one at work. Inwould really like to have it made before I pull everything apart, rather than having to wait til I'm back at work to make it after taking the measurent myself.

 

[m-35tom]

Dies anyone have an exact (as in, taken with a micrometer) measurement of the planetary turunions?

I don't have a spare hub cover to carve up and make into a suim preloading tool, so just going to make one at work. Inwould really like to have it made before I pull everything apart, rather than having to wait til I'm back at work to make it after taking the measurent myself.

That is just a waste of time. All you need to do is measure from the hub face to the face of the nut and do the math. It's in the manual and really simple.

 

[coachgeo]

That is just a waste of time. All you need to do is measure from the hub face to the face of the nut and do the math. It's in the manual and really simple.

yup..... get a straight edge.. measure distance from that to guesstimate # of shims you put in.... do the math to calculate where your at.... compare that to TM spec. then add or subtract shims to fall in the right range.

Neil's video on this process

 

[B-Dog]

1.180-1.181" on the part that I have at the ready, measured with calipers.

The problem, or possible variance, using the TM method is that the TM assumes the thickness of the gear set is XYZ for all gear sets, as @steve6x6x6 pointed out in previous posts. Gear sets ARE going to vary in thickness. I would have to agree with Steve, in that measuring backlash with the gears assembled would be a more accurate approach. But, the TM method is probably quicker and easier when considering who would likely be working on these trucks.

 

[Floridianson]

Have to agree Steve's ways was easy and not that much time lost maybe minutes not hours. For me a couple of minutes more to be sure I got my 10 / 20 minimum was worth it. I got lucky I guess in a way as I had a damage cover to cut and Steve also sold me 4 complete hub rebuild kits. I also bought 6 shim kits for the 1088 one for each hub. The first one was a learning curve and the second went faster. The last 4 hubs it was like I was an old pro and I used the Milwaukee cordless on all hubs to speed up the R&R.
Steve owns Differential Engineering and built plus rebuilt God only knows how many of these axles and others.
The only thing that took me longer on each hub is I deleted the CTIS and now all rear bearings are oil bath. Was not a waist of time in my opinion doing it Steve's way.

 

[coachgeo]

Have to agree Steve's ways was easy and not that much time lost maybe minutes not hours. For me a couple of minutes more to be sure I got my 10 / 20 minimum was worth it. I got lucky I guess in a way as I had a damage cover to cut and Steve also sold me 4 complete hub rebuild kits. I also bought 6 shim kits for the 1088 one for each hub. The first one was a learning curve and the second went faster. The last 4 hubs it was like I was an old pro and I used the Milwaukee cordless on all hubs to speed up the R&R.
Steve owns Differential Engineering and built plus rebuilt God only knows how many of these axles and others.
The only thing that took me longer on each hub is I deleted the CTIS and now all rear bearings are oil bath. Was not a waist of time in my opinion doing it Steve's way.

I have a cover to cut... but honestly never under stood the process in using it..... but Im dumb.

 

[B-Dog]

I have a cover to cut... but honestly never under stood the process in using it..... but Im dumb.

The cut off hub cover is basically a window. You're essentially putting the entire hub assembly together, save for the outer most gear, and looking inside to see how much play/backlash exists.

I would assume the TM errors on the low side such that with brand new spider gears, at the max possible manufactured/finished size and with the required max shim measurement the gears won't mesh too tightly. Anything less is presumably sloppier than ideal. It's possible you could add more shims than the TM suggests to obtain more desirable backlash in the gears. All of this doesn't even consider the outermost gear which could be equally sloppy.

Worst case, we're talking about thousandths here, not a make a break difference. I'd suggest using the method that you're more comfortable or understand clearer.

 

[Floridianson]

I felt dumb going into it but that is better then loosing your mind. As Steve showed in his post we are just feeling the 6 o clock gear for the min. of 10 to 20 thousands. He never said anything about the maximum lash. Also I only had to use four bolts to hold on cover to pin down the cross. As said first one learning curve last ones easy. We just do not want them so tight as to get hot or too much slop I would think but I am dumb and loosing my mind.
Just start with the ones that are already there and see where you need to go.

 

[VanisleDave]

Great, thank you B-dog