PM like there's no tommorow

[sandcobra164]

In the morning I'm changing primary and both secondary fuel filters, changing both oil filters and replacing 5 and a 1/2 gallons of oil, tightening the belts and checking diff levels. I've already confirmed the diffs (at least front and rear most are over full, intermediate leaked it's overfull condition out) are overfilled and will drain them to level. I plan on checking the transmission and transfer case as well as re-verifying brake fluid level. Anything else I need to look at on a new truck while accomplishing my first true -10 level maintenance or any advice you can push a new truck owner's way. I think I've got the fuel bleeding covered, good in tank pump and just loosen the bolt on top of the secondaries till I've got straight fuel. Don't let the oil filter housings turn as I tighten them down. I overthink stuff so let me know if I've missed something along the way. Hooray for good PM and congrats to those who have well maintained trucks.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I learned the hard way(trip to NC) my wheel bearings were not packed with grease. Expensive while on the side of the road. It will probably triple your time invested, but you should look at them. That will also let you look and see if the brakes are in good condition too.

 

[cessnatwin]

He's right, get just glue the axles when you close them up, but I would do a one time grease check, pack them pretty full.

 

[Keith_J]

Packing the hubs full of grease is an almost certain path to getting grease on the brakes.

Sure, it was tradition to have "combat grease" in the hubs and it might make sense when you might have to deep water ford. But for highway service? It causes grease extrusion. Bearings which are over-packed will pump grease out. And if you have so much grease in the hub that there is no space for any more, it extrudes out through the inner seal.

 

[Brian Thomas]

If you are going to PM like no other. You should,
Dump all the fluids. This includes, brake fluid engine coolant all axles and trans and t case, engine oil. Drain fuel tank completly and flush out with 5 gallons of new fuel. Change all filters.
Service all the hubs and bearings.
Proper brake adjustment on all wheels.
Check and grease the tandem trunions on the rear suspension. They have greased bearings in them.
Grease entire chassis. Lots of zerks every where. If there is something that moves on the truck, there is a zerk to grease it.
Adjust the park brake and all the service brakes.
Torque the drive line bolts and check for any loose bolts on chassis.
Check all the lights in all switch positions.
Check the valve adjustment in the engine.
Check and adjust clutch linkage.
Check the toe in on the front axle and adjust if needed.
Use a bar and check engine mounts and transfer case mounts for wear.
If using a "sprag tcase" check the adjustment on the linkage in forward and reverse, use tm, this was very badly needed on mine as the front drive did not work in reverse.
Check battery condition,conections and voltage.
Check operation of all the gauges.
lube speedo cable and speedo head.
Replace the belts regaurdless of thier condition. Place old belts under seat for "just in case"
Replace the cooling hoses and the heater hoses.
Check wheels for any signs of cracking around lug holes.
Check all the axle control rod bushings for excesive separation.

I know the list is long and would take a couple days to do but I did mine and it made a world of difference in its operation form when I got the truck. Mine has 1800 miles on the thing and it still needed much attention after sitting for so long.

 

[ctmustang]

I would do all the above. And take your time. You should be done sometime around nov.

 

[glcaines]

I would stress the draining and flushing of the fuel tank. I was amazed at the **** in my tank. I even found a piece of plastic cup.

 

[JCKnife]

Tagscribe. I'm headed for this when it's a little warmer (18 deg. today!)

 

[MWMULES]

I would stress the draining and flushing of the fuel tank. I was amazed at the **** in my tank. I even found a piece of plastic cup.

I found the remains of 5 mice, couple of pine cones and some globs of "sillycon" that had been used to reseal the fuel pump flange!
I would also check the battery acid, mine are usually low.

 

[emr]

A " Major Brake adjustment is the only thing I can see that should be on that awesome list, I am sure it is well talked about in past posts, i know i have explained it, A spongy peddle to unequal braking can be from just improper adjustment, after a Major, at 3000 miles a Minor should be doen and then at the next 3000 a " Major again, these are tactical trucks and requir lists like above to be done and checked alot, I would just add save the old belts in the truck with the basic emergency stuff if they looked good. thats what i did.

 

[Heavysteven]

I recomend using Bladwin oil filters. Also replace the gasket on top of each canister. I was not pleased with the gaskets that I recieved from NAPA.

 

[tm america]

i would do everything listed above plus .i would look over the toque rod ends real good for cracks and change any that look bad .its not fun when they come apart when driving. and i would at the minimum pull the front hub covers and rear axles to check to see if the hubs need greased.

 

[Brian Thomas]

Ok I added every ones suggestions to the list.

One does not have to do it all in one service. Make a list and work on the important stuff first like Brakes and lights? Then move on down the list.

 

[fasttruck]

Air is free tires cost money. Correct airf pressure for highway use in all 11 tires? A m35 has 35 or so grease points, more if there is a winch. Grease is cheap. Parts cost money. Read lo to find all of the grease points. Don't forget to oil can hinges, door closure devices, windshield adjuster, bell cranks and ball joints such as throttle linkage, open inner panel on door, neverseize screws and grease lift mechanism for windows.