Pop went the weasel. Any ideas?

epartsman

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Yes funds are tight. Put the breaker bar to the crank this weekend and no slop. Bought a new shut off solenoid and cove gasket from L&J (Diesel Logic). I pulled it apart and installed it. This one clicks like its supposed to and the top bowl was full of fuel. The old one made a funny sound when power was applied. Still no dice. Plenty of fuel in but nothing is going from the pump to the injectors. The cam gear is turning. I pulled the oil fill and felt it. Looks like I am going to have to pull the pump and mortgage my first born to get it rebuilt. I hope the shaft is not broken which will mean even more $$$. My angel whom since I am a single Father takes most of my time and $$.
 

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epartsman

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I have a question. Will a military Hummer 6.2 IP work on my 09? I have an opportunity to buy a complete engine and if I can use the IP I will and keep the rest for later use. Please let me know if anyone has tried this.
 

Warthog

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You will only need to change out the shutoff valve. The Humvee is 24v with the Packard connector. The CUCVs us a 12v unit.

There has been many people that have done this. Maybe even at least a few writes ups.
 
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epartsman

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Great Warthog. Thanks! I can buy this complete engine for way less than a pump rebuild and have it running by next weekend. I know it will be used but it looks super clean and if it gets me by for a few years I will be thrilled and save about $300 or more in the process. I need my 09 to haul used tires and it has been 3 weeks since I delivered my last load. I really need that income. I fear the shaft in mine broke which means big$$$. The minimum rebuild is $425 with a good shaft and I can buy this compl engine for $200.
 

Warthog

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Just follow the instructions in the TM. Not hard to do.

$200 is a great price.
 

epartsman

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I just wanted to update this. I was not able to get the spare engine as someone beat me to it. I finally had time and the availability of funds to tear it down after diagnosis concluded it was the IP. It wasn't difficult to remove just aggravating and time consuming. I will take some pics of it apart and post. So far as I can tell the shaft retaining clip let go and the shaft was no longer driving the rotor. With everything unbolted I pulled back on the IP to remove it and the shaft stayed behind. I pulled both out, pushed it back on, and it clicked into place. Weird. I verified pump ID number and it was period correct miltary even though it looked as if it had been gone into before. I took it to L&J Diesel (You may know it as Diesel Logic) and they are currently doing a complete rebuilt with the best and latest components. In 2 weekends it will be alive God willing. I have faith it will run. I havent driven it since June and I am having severe withdrawals. Pics and more later.
 

epartsman

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Well the rotor failed and locked the pump thus snapping the shaft. Diesel logic (L&J) attributed it to a clog and told me they could smell the oil in the fuel. They dismantled it and compared it to a stanadyne book showing pictures of failures. I was only running less than 20% clean but expired veg oil with the diesel so it should have had plenty of lubricant. The 09 at the time of failure was running the best and smoothest it had ever been since I had it. The only problem was a slight hard start problem requiring 1/2 pedal to fire. I heard a POP and it was all over. This was in June and in 95 degree Florida heat so viscosity I thought would not be an issue. I cannot attest however to what had been run in it while it was a beach comer in South Florida for the National Guard or what sitting all these years after 26K miles on the beach did to it. But what I can attest to is it started on the first turn after sitting for over a year with a bad starter. It barely turned over, caught, and ran.
They threw away my old pump and built me a 4520 new gen pump. Cost me $460 incl tax and they gave me a felpro gasket set. Guess what I am doing tomorrow?
 

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Keith_J

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Hopefully running proper diesel once you get it all together. :deadhorse:

416 dollars will buy 111 gallons in my area. Not saying alternative fuels caused your problems but it didn't help.
 

epartsman

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Further developments have surfaced. I do not know how I missed this during tear down but the wires to the heating element on the fuel filter block were cooked. No insulation left. Not just that but the others were in bad shape as well. I moved the harness closest to the valve cover and to my surprise I found a hole in the top of it made by that harness arcing on it. I had to remove the cover and brought it to a friend to be welded. As for the Fuel filter sensors and block I have a complete 86 assembly that looks new but the only difference is it has female connectors on it and my original 85 had male. My question is has anyone used the 86 on an 85? The wiring colors and pin position is the same so if I used my old connectors would it work without frying anything or is there something different in the sensors that warranted the connector change? Anyone with insight on this your help would be appreciated.
 

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o1951

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They threw away my old pump and built me a 4520 new gen pump. Cost me $460 incl tax and they gave me a felpro gasket set. Guess what I am doing tomorrow?[/QUOTE said:
Sound like GOOD people! Gasket set too - Price is more than fair.[thumbzup]
 

swinters

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Was the replacement one off of a civilian truck? I was pretty sure that all of the military filter bases and wiring are the same across the CUCV fleet (Blazers and Pickups) but looked it up in the Army parts manual and it shows the same for all CUCVs. I have several parts trucks and a driver (84, 85 and 86 build years) so looked at the filter bases and all are the same. Also have an 84 Diesel Suburban with the same base and it looks like the connectors are the same as your spare. It looks like the same setup with the sensor, switch and fuel heater but I don't know whether there are any differences in specs on those components.
 

epartsman

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Well the guy I got it from "said" it was from an 86 CUCV and it looks new. The only difference on the block is the lower drain valve is on the side (looked like an upgrade to me) instead of on the bottom and the mounting bracket has the same bolt pattern just less metal. If it is Civy that would figure but all the wiring and pins are the same just backwards with female instead of male connectors on the filter side. I swapped the connectors because my wiring was fried but if anyone can give me a valid reason why it wouldn't work I will plug it in and give it a try next weekend. My valve cover is ready with the hole welded so God willing I will have it up and running this coming weekend. If anyone has run into this scenario before please share your experience and wisdom because I do not want to burn my truck down since this is a fuel filter.
 

epartsman

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I am finally updating and finishing this thread. I swapped over the connectors from the burnt wires on my old filter housing and it works. The WIF light cycles and I believe the heater is working with no leaks at all. Man this took 6 months of having to save up for the pump and various other parts as well as find the time. I buttoned it all up yesterday, put my tools away, added 5psi to the tires, fired her up, and bounced (semi square tires from sitting in one place soo long) to the gas station to load her up with some fresh fuel. She starts quick, runs smooth like a new truck, has lots of power (advanced about a mm), only smokes on hard accelleration, and it feels great having her on the road again. Doing this job myself intimidated me but I worked through it with a lot of prayer and the sense to stop and regroup when something frustrated me like not being able to get the pump to seat. One big thing I did learn from this, to properly bleed the system with minimum cranking leave the injector lines off the injectors till you get fuel running out of them. I had fuel flow in about 3 tries, burped the fuel filter, and viola! The advice I got from SS members took me in the right direction and I thank those that offered their opinions. Parts is Parts
 
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