Possible IP?

[Blue2actual]

I know yall are probably tired of reading thread after thread about IPs...But I need some second opinions about my scenario. My 1009 electrical system is stock except that I have a push button plug heater. Since I bought the truck it has had some starting issues. So far I have replaced the glow plugs with Delco 60gs, Put a new GP relay on, done the doghead starter mod, put a spin on fuel filter in place of the stock box, and have en electric fuel pump. Before I did the spin on fuel filter mod, The truck was B*$@H to start, no matter what temperature. Now that I did the filter mod, It starts every time, BUT only on the second attempt. This is a hugeimprovement over what it was! Now, No matter if I heat the plugs or not, the truck will start on the second attempt, everytime. It was 37 degrees this morning and I didnt heat the plugs when I went to start it, just to test it out. Sure enough, it fired on the second turn. I crank on it about 4 to 5 seconds and let off, and as soon as I tap the key the second time, it fires right up.

My question is this- Is it time to replace the IP? It's not wet anywhere on the pump, but Im ASSUMING that it's just wore out...? Maybe I am expecting to much out of my truck, but I'm thinking that with those parts and mods I have done, it SHOULD fire up right away. I dont know...maybe I am crazy. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Warthog]

Just remember that these trucks are 25+ years old. Your pump may be okay but it will fail at some point.

Just save your pennys and plan to rebuild the pump.

So what if it takes two attempts to start. It may last along time starting that way.

 

[Blue2actual]

Just remember that these trucks are 25+ years old. Your pump may be okay but it will fail at some point.

Just save your pennys and plan to rebuild the pump.

So what if it takes two attempts to start. It may last along time starting that way.

Warthog, that's kind of what I figured. Doing the Spin on Fuel Filter mod made a night and day difference. It could be 90 degrees out and not start with the old box style filter. Now this morning it started great at 37 degrees, and I didnt have to heat the plugs. I FIGURED that I was expecting too much for a 25 year old motor. But I think all considering, it is just fine. Just wanted another opinion from someone. Thanks for the feedback!

 

[jdemaris]

I know yall are probably tired of reading thread after thread about IPs...
. I crank on it about 4 to 5 seconds and let off, and as soon as I tap the key the second time, it fires right up.

My question is this- Is it time to replace the IP? It's not wet anywhere on the pump, but Im ASSUMING that it's just wore out...?.

Generally speaking, that is not what happens when a pump gets worn.

Usually with normal wear and high miles- the first thing to stop working is the fuel/ignition automatic timing advance. As it goes bad the engine starts to break up at high RPMs, especially no-load and when cold. This has NO effect on starting.

When a pump gets severe wear in the head & rotor, it will start fine when cold but refuse to start when hot.

You must have one heck of an engine if it fires in cold temps with no glow plugs. It's not designed to have that ability, even when all is perfect.

Have you checked, or replaced the fitting on top of the pump where the fuel exits? It is often a cause of slight fuel bleed-back that causing "false starts." That is , the engine fires up cold, then quits. One or two more tries then all is fine.

By the way, these Stanadyne fuel injection pumps rarely get "rebuilt." When they go to the shop, most major parts get used over, as is, with no renewal process.

 

[Blue2actual]

Generally speaking, that is not what happens when a pump gets worn.

Usually with normal wear and high miles- the first thing to stop working is the fuel/ignition automatic timing advance. As it goes bad the engine starts to break up at high RPMs, especially no-load and when cold. This has NO effect on starting.

When a pump gets severe wear in the head & rotor, it will start fine when cold but refuse to start when hot.

You must have one heck of an engine if it fires in cold temps with no glow plugs. It's not designed to have that ability, even when all is perfect.

Have you checked, or replaced the fitting on top of the pump where the fuel exits? It is often a cause of slight fuel bleed-back that causing "false starts." That is , the engine fires up cold, then quits. One or two more tries then all is fine.

By the way, these Stanadyne fuel injection pumps rarely get "rebuilt." When they go to the shop, most major parts get used over, as is, with no renewal process.

My truck does exactly what you said- It starts great when it's cold now, but even when it's hot, I have to crank on it to get it to start. I havent touched the IP so I havent done anything to that fitting on top of the pump. Can you replace those?

 

[nk14zp]

My truck does exactly what you said- It starts great when it's cold now, but even when it's hot, I have to crank on it to get it to start. I havent touched the IP so I havent done anything to that fitting on top of the pump. Can you replace those?

You can take it off and clean it. I have seen them wore out. Then you need a new one.