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Power Distribution Panel M1083A1 10/98

Waters

Member
38
13
8
Location
Lexington KY
On the board are numbers denoting what socket number is on the rear and with this there a diagrams telling what wires go into it and there location. Looking specifically for J302 but if someone had J301- J309 and wouldn't mind sharing them I would be pleased and could continue know exactly what I am doing.
Thank you
Lugnuts

Just stumbled upon this thread.
Lugnuts, did you get anywhere with your MTV?

Also, this is the first place I've read about certain boards being bad. I've only got about 600 miles on my 1078a1 but I have a seldom appearing turn signal INOP issue that doesn't last very long and may be cold weather related, a sudden tendency for the ABS light to come on on longer drives but only sometimes, and also apparently an inlet air heater that works but only when CAT tells it to with their computer. I have yet to troubleshoot each individually but I do wonder if I'm in for board issues. My truck is a 2003 and I'm not at it right now to tell which SN, hoping I avoided the bad board design.
 

Lugnuts

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
257
201
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Location
Myakka City, FL
Sorry to take so long answering.
This is not an involved question but the answer takes some thought and time because this was the early part of my search.
First off my board wasn't bad it was a bad ground. The question I would ask you now is do you have the electrical schematics for the A1?? The schematics show you that there is only one or two grounds on the board (if I remember right) and they or it are grounded at TB2 I think and that is a ground strip and can be seen easily if you pull your whole board out of you distribution panel area. (I am working off of memory and may not be exactly right but be kind, the schematics tell all) Once you see the ground strip it is pretty easy to work with.
Now ultimately my problem was in my Transmission Keyboard, can't quite explain why the symptoms showed up as they did but that was my solution. By all indication it was a bad ground and not working the neutral start relay.
On my turn signals it turn out to be my solid state flasher and again the symptoms indicated something else but I replaced it with a mechanical flasher and that resolved my problems and with a schematic you can get the wiring to hook up to the flasher. That is quite easy because one is a ground, one is a load, and one is 12 volt supply.
The horn was bad connections at the horn and if I recall correctly it was removed and mounting cleaned thus establishing a good ground.
Don't be quick to condemn the board. It is expensive and not exactly a dime store item.
If you don't have a schematic let me know and I will supply you one.
If this didn't answer your question please get back to me.
 
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