Power for heater motor?

[Jake0147]

Well, since my accountant says that I can't have the proper heater for my deuce (yet...) I have decided to install the essentials of an M151 kit. Last summer, the lack of a defroster on cool mornings cost me some seat time.

Installation was easy, but my question is about where to steal the power from the existing harness. Plan B (not out of the question) is to use unswitched power, probably at the starter relay. It's loud enough I doubt I could forget and leave it on, but I'd rather it be switched with the main switch.
So plan A is to use the existing wires with the kit and stick the "Y" wire into an existing connector. (I don't care to cut wires for a short to medium term temporary installation...)
According to the TM I don't see why I couldn't take it from the gauge power harness (where the "spider wire" plugs in. The wires should be fine, but is the switch up to that? Is there another place in that general area (the wires lay in really nice there...)
I have wire and connectors coming, but they're a ways out, and I havn't seen them yet to know if I "need" the fancy crimpers or if I can install them adequately with what I have. Yeah I know, I know, but I WANT the right connectors, even if it's a butcher. It's just a thing, I don't have a good reason...
Or, is there even enough reserve in the existing breaker and/or main switch?

The TMs for the M151 heater are great, but the deuce TMs reference instructions that come with the correct kit. Did I miss something in the TMs (I have missed stuff there before, it's a LOT of reading...) or can someone give me a (short) overview as to how/where power was supplied to the right kit?

 

[cranetruck]

This is for the m35, but may give you some ideas.

 

[Jake0147]

Haah! The horn wire... I bet if I moved the switch a little I could reach that one out in the engine bay... Never thout of that.

Thank you very much!

 

[Jake0147]

OK, so I couldn't quite reach the horn connection at the horn, but I ditched the switch bracket and used the ether start/flame heater switch hole. (I was hoping for the switch to be over on the right side, but oh well...) I rearranged the kit wires, and plugged in at the horn relay. I had to mount the new breaker from inside the firewall, so I used the "breakered" power from the horn relay instead of the unbreakered like I'm supposed to. Easy to change if that proves problematic, but it's a 20 amp relay for the horn? Is that correct? Correct or not, it covers the 15 amp kit relay easily as well as protecting my passthrough wire.
So it's not switched like I hoped for, but no big deal. It is all "plug in" just as I wanted it, and it works well. Thanks again.

Next step- Fix the shop vac and remove fourty years of defroster vent debris from everywhere except the defroster vents.

It's not in the center like I've seen them, but it is tucked up against the firewall pretty snug (frustratingly snug when running ducts) and not in the way, and the core should be able to pick up a good bit of fresh air from the side vent should I choose to open it. No, the core isn't as badly corroded as the picture makes it look, in person it's just a little discolored.