Power Steering Gear Box

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Chief B

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Milton, FL
I did a search and found a thread on rebuilding one, but is there an aftermarket replacement to get a new one?
 

Chief B

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Location
Milton, FL
OK, doing a NSN to part number lookup I think I found this at Auto Zone, but wanted to know if anybody can tell me if this is the right size.

Input Shaft: 0.8 in
Input Shaft Spline count: 32
Output Shaft: 1.25 in
Output Shaft Spline Count: 32
Power Steering Inlet Size: 18mm x 1.5
Power Steering Outlet Size: 16mm x 1.5
Turns to Lock: 4.2
 

Mogman

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Papalote, TX
OK, doing a NSN to part number lookup I think I found this at Auto Zone, but wanted to know if anybody can tell me if this is the right size.

Input Shaft: 0.8 in
Input Shaft Spline count: 32
Output Shaft: 1.25 in
Output Shaft Spline Count: 32
Power Steering Inlet Size: 18mm x 1.5
Power Steering Outlet Size: 16mm x 1.5
Turns to Lock: 4.2
What is the autozone part number?
 

Chief B

Active member
159
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Location
Milton, FL
Ok... working on trying to get this thing out of my HMMWV and I have a bolt that no matter what I’ve done will not budge... any tricks on getting it out?




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JKDAY

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Location
St Louis MO
Check the old gear to see if you have a check valve in the high pressure port. If you do, then the new unit likely wont have one, and you may need to get the new check valve and install it. My old unit had the check valve, and when I installed the new unit without the check valve, I didn't have power steering at idle. The part number for the check valve is 7834284. They have them in stock at Rock Auto. You can see it in the right port in the photo below. You have to carefully tap the valve into the port with a socket. Are you sure the steering gear is bad? If it just has play in the steering, you could have worn idler arm, tie rods, or pitman arm. Also, there is a worm gear preload adjustment on the gear that can take some of the play out. You've already removed the steering knuckle, so the easiest way to remove this is to take the idler arm loose from the frame first, pull the pitman arm, remove the hoses from the steering gear, then take out the (3) steering gear frame bolts and remove the gear. I think I had to rotate mine and pull it out from the top. When you re-assemble, be sure to check the o rings on the two high pressure hoses that attach to the gear, they could be smashed and might let air into the system. Bleeding can take some time after you get everything back together. It's a good idea to replace the idler arm and pitman arm while you doing this. I also added a magnifine filter in the return line from the hydroboost back to the power steering pump to filter out junk in the system.

20200424_165812.jpg
 

Chief B

Active member
159
58
28
Location
Milton, FL
Check the old gear to see if you have a check valve in the high pressure port. If you do, then the new unit likely wont have one, and you may need to get the new check valve and install it. My old unit had the check valve, and when I installed the new unit without the check valve, I didn't have power steering at idle. The part number for the check valve is 7834284. They have them in stock at Rock Auto. You can see it in the right port in the photo below. You have to carefully tap the valve into the port with a socket. Are you sure the steering gear is bad? If it just has play in the steering, you could have worn idler arm, tie rods, or pitman arm. Also, there is a worm gear preload adjustment on the gear that can take some of the play out. You've already removed the steering knuckle, so the easiest way to remove this is to take the idler arm loose from the frame first, pull the pitman arm, remove the hoses from the steering gear, then take out the (3) steering gear frame bolts and remove the gear. I think I had to rotate mine and pull it out from the top. When you re-assemble, be sure to check the o rings on the two high pressure hoses that attach to the gear, they could be smashed and might let air into the system. Bleeding can take some time after you get everything back together. It's a good idea to replace the idler arm and pitman arm while you doing this. I also added a magnifine filter in the return line from the hydroboost back to the power steering pump to filter out junk in the system.
Thank you for the input, this helps a lot. The reason I think that mine is out is not only because I have not had power steering in a couple months now even with new pump, but now it decided to dump all the fluid out of it where the pitman arm attaches. Was going to just do a rebuild, but was told that due to the high probability that there is probably sand/mud in it from the last time I drove it (when I got stuck) that it is probably not worth rebuilding. A local shop here actually told me that they would only do it without a warrantee as they do not believe it would last more than a couple months due to internal damage from sand and would want 250 to do it so I just opted to replace it. Currently I'm to the point where I have the nut off the arm where it hooks to the tie rod, but I was unable to get that separated so I went last night and got a puller and will be working on it more later today. I've also removed the hoses and I have the three bolts lose, but still in just enough to hold it in place while I work on this.
 

Mogman

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Papalote, TX
Did you get the new box in? if so did you use the number referenced above? and third is it working correctly?
 

Chief B

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Location
Milton, FL
That part number referenced above Auto Zone says they have in stock until you go to checkout then it is unavailable. They called Napa and they cross referenced the part to a Napa part, but that turned out to be the wrong part all together, mounting holes did not even line up. Rock Auto has it where you pay for a rebuild and send yours in for them to rebuild it and this is what I ended up doing.


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Last edited:

Shurts

New member
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Location
Sylva, NC
I JUST replaced my gear box over the weekend. Not too bad - the pitman arm wouldn't come loose until I applied liberal heat followed by cold water. I got mine from Midwest Military Equipment.
 
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