Power steering pump bracket

[cucvrus]

Well I do recall that you are supposed to push a piece of hose over the end of the petcock. But you can change that stock petcock and put an angled brass valve on the drain. Eliminate the stock drain petcock. Or just live with it. The angled brass petcock can have a short fitting or hose attached and that way you can drain it neatly. How is the project coming along? Do you need that stud yet? Good Luck.

 

[jcollings]

You have to remember ..I have trouble even getting my fingers into that area to open that petcock it's so busy with other stuff

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[jcollings]

Wow..... this gives a whole new meaning to difficult the way these things come apart, crazy
....no wonder why they were broken when they were put on.
This oil fill tube design was not real good with clearance on this one bolt on this side

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[cucvrus]

A thin kerf tappet wrench is needed when working on a CUCV engine.

 

[jcollings]

OEM no gasket here?? Rtv?
Pump comes with new gaskets for inner an outer, do you use?

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[jcollings]

Okay here's the plan, made this bushing to fit this drill to protect the aluminum timing cover.
try to drill enough to get an EZ out in to remove the snapped off threads in the block,
without removing the timing cover .....wish me luck

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[cucvrus]

Okay here's the plan, made this bushing to fit this drill to protect the aluminum timing cover.
try to drill enough to get an EZ out in to remove the snapped off threads in the block,
without removing the timing cover .....wish me luck

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But I will still wish you the best of luck. Report back. I think the bolt end is loose. I fear you may drive it in deeper. Good Luck.

 

[cucvrus]

And yes I would use the new gaskets. I use gasket shellac. Good Luck.

 

[jcollings]

So no gasket on the back .
you're talkin Aviation Permatex like Indian shellac instead of a gasket or in addition to.

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[jcollings]

That's what I'm talkin about no problem.......... I like it

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[cucvrus]

No I would use the gasket. Just the shellac to hold the thin gasket in place. Good Job. Do you have a replacement stud?

 

[2deuce]

I've had luck just using an ice pick to spin the broken piece out especially if it broke off because it was loose. I would try that before drilling anything.

 

[Mullaney]

I never could understand why the drain on these radiators don't go to a specific area. but it's been that way for a long time as everybody knows

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.
I think there is an engineer - just one guy - who designs all the drains on radiators (most everything else too!).
His job is to be sure that the bucket won't catch more than half of the fluid.

 

[jcollings]

as CUCV said , should have connected a hose to drain it.
Although the mep803a gen I have had hoses that that lead to outside the unit for oil,coolant and fuel draining. But then again to keep it cleaner I have added a extra hose barb and peice if hose when draining. So ......
It is what it is..........

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[cucvrus]

I've had luck just using an ice pick to spin the broken piece out especially if it broke off because it was loose. I would try that before drilling anything.

This bolt was in there a good 1"-1 1/2" No ice pick spinning on this one. Maybe but doubt it. Good Idea. I sort of figured to was loose.

 

[LT67]

The inherent problem is that the bolt/stud is sheared off inside the block.thred peice.
I don't know if this is a problem with these engines or trucks I've never seen anything like that. So I believe not sure that this is a wet hole. Will try to drill an easy out to remove. I would think there is not more than 3/8 to 1/2 inch of threads remaining in there. Any recommended part numbers for bolt/stud combo, a water pump replacement,clutch fan replacement, and radiator,
I know you're the Cucv expert on these trucks. Any info you have would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
John C

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I had the same thing on my 86 M1008. It was a simple tap it out and put a new one in. Haven't had a problem with it yet...

 

[jcollings]

I would not consider this a simple tap out. with the 2 - 3/4 inch Easy out all the way in past the aluminum timing cover. Without removing that cover the easy out had to been all the way in the whole we're barely able to grab the four-sided end to put an adjustable wrench on and almost give enough Force to break it. it was borderline.
I was very happy to get it out with all the extra work that would have been needed.

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[ridenby]

Do yourself a favor and get left hand drill bit. I bet the broke piece turns out easy with it.
Good deal. As normal I am a day late and a dollar short.

 

[jcollings]

I have used those before on other jobs with not much good luck sometimes. also this was a extreme reach which most thin reverse drill bits do not reach.as shown in the picture with the drill bushing to protect the aluminum to get in there. I'm just glad to get it out, without all the extra work in removing timing cover injection pump harmonic balancer excetera excetera

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[2deuce]

I've used the ice pick method on broken starter bolts 2 or 3 times. I would have tried it in your case if I had room. It really helps to see what you're doing. Sending a drill bit in there is tricky, then the bit tightens the broken piece, then the easy out breaks off....then I turn to suicidal thoughts. I like the sleeve, and left hand drill bit ideas. Where do you get the sleeve?