Power steering pump leak

[Hasdrubal]

Saw a few drips on driveway, checked underneath, bottom lip of power steering pump was wet. Couldn't really see where it came from, thinking it might be the inside, forward face, where shaft attaches to pulley. All lines are tight and dry. Is this a normal wear item. Take the unit off and replace pump section with o-ring?

 

[Warthog]

I tried rebuilding a pump before. I failed miserably. Buy a rebuilt unit.

The pump unit will separate from the tank. Easy to replace.

 

[Skinny]

I think you could replace the front pump seal without disassembly, pulling pump off of reservoir to replace large o-ring shouldn't be hard either. Once you get internal, I agree may as well just get a reman.

Also, you will need an SST (probably free rental at most autoparts stores) to remove and install the pulley whether you reseal or replace the pump.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

How's your budget? If you can buy a new or rebuilt, that's the best approach. If not, try Prestone fluid with leak stop. I don't normally like to use such products, but had to recently on another vehicle. It has stopped the leak, and bought me some time.

 

[Hasdrubal]

-deleted-

 

[Hasdrubal]

Finally got around to doing the pump swap. Tool I bought worked for removing pulleys, the one for installing, not so much. I'm 1/16" short of having it pressed on flush. Bolt of tool is severely bent, don't want to continue and break it. Obviously its a cheap inferior grade bolt and couldn't take the torque I was applying. Put WD-40 on the pulley shaft and tool was well oiled.


Anyone know what thread pitch I need for a new bolt, would grade 8 be sufficient, it threads into the pump shaft? Asked a local guy what's with the bent bolt, he said its caused by the bolt bottoming out in the shaft and I should shim it with washers, but I checked the depth and it hadn't gone in that far. Am I missing something here, is this supposed to be such a pain.

Looking on-line I see 3/8"-16 coarse mentioned, is this correct?

 

[cucvrus]

I was thinking that it could be an M10 1.5 metric thread in the PS pump shaft. I remember the pump ham can reservoir being held together with M10 1.5 / 15mm drive bolts. I think the pump shaft is metric. It does pay to have good quality correct tools. I know 3/8 16 with seem to fit in the M10 holes. But it is failing to provide a positive fit.

 

[gringeltaube]

................Anyone know what thread pitch I need for a new bolt, it threads into the pump shaft?
Looking on-line I see 3/8"-16 coarse mentioned, is this correct?

3/8"-16 is correct, for ALL of them.

would grade 8 be sufficient...

Yes. And clean that threaded hole with a tap before you force a new bolt in there.


G.

 

[cucvrus]

I am sorry Mr Moderator I just went out and looked they are Metric bolts on all the power steering pump brackets of a CUCV and the power steering pump to bracket bolts. The one bolt on the rear of the pump is metric also and has an 18mm drive and the 9.8 bolt grade on the head. That is metric. Sorry but I have worked on these so long I can almost pick up any bolt from the entire truck and tell where it came from and what size and thread pitch it is. Not bragging just stating a fact. I do not like to mis inform with out looking deeper into it. The shaft hole is also metric I just looked at my Snap on puller and the metric end M10 1.5 is the only end I ever used. Being I changed countless broken power steering brackets over the years. I am willing to say I am accurate. Please advise me if I am not. This is friendly debate not meant to anger. Check it out.

 

[gringeltaube]

Post #6 wasn't about the bracket bolts (which we know, are all metric)...
We are talking about the CUCV's PS-pump shaft #7837321 (NSN 3040-01-160-1535) and the size of its threaded hole. I say again that a 3/8"-16 bolt will fit right; a M10x1.5 bolt will not.





G.


[h=2][/h]

 

[cucvrus]

Fine have at it.

 

[cucvrus]

Ok this really sparked my curiosity. So I went out and pulled 2 Power Steering pumps. I had to kick a family of Mud Dappers out of each shaft and bring them in and clean the threads with a thread chaser. It seems that I am unable to determine which is the correct threads. It seems that they both fit. 3/8' & M10. And with me using an impact each time to install the puller / press. I never knew if I was right or wrong. But both bolts thread and hold. I used bolts because I wanted to be able to run nuts on them. Now I know why I have seen the starter bolts with 3/8" bolts and they still worked and held the starter. I have a new Autozone pump with out the ham can and it is hands down metric. But it is made in China a metric country. But I can half force a 3/8" also. So I am unsure and apoligize for misinforming anyone. It stands to reason that the rest of the pump is metric that the shaft would be to. But these are mixed up yearss in the automotive world and the CUCV's were the same standard 3/8" Bell bolts into a metric motor. So maybe using the never-seize and grease and the air ratchet made the puller / Press fit. The world may never know. Learn something new everyday. I am not without sin or fault and will be the first one to admit it. Please forgive me if I am wrong. But the jury is still out. I will ask my side kick when he returns tomorrow. Thank you for the friendly debate.