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Power steering question...Saginaw gear and 395/85/20 tires

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Tophatperformance

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Athens, Ga.
Wondering if I can use the Saginaw 710 gear on the outside of the frame rail running mrap wheels with 395/85/20s. Anyone got the setup? Do they rub? Please give some feedback.
 
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cummins7

Member
64
5
8
Location
Spring Grove, Pa
I'm running the same set up, it does rub but i plan on just adding to the steering stop. You lose a little turning radius but with the power steering it's easy enough to back up and turn again. I'd recommend going to a diff wheel if you havnt bought them yet but if you did I'd still run them.
 
QUADJEEPER

QUADJEEPER

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
6
18
Location
Winter Springs, FL
I had considerable interference with my steering arm and the 365 85 x 20's that I'm running. Had to extend the steering stop approx. 3/4". Does hurt right turning a good bit. Also trimmed the nut and arm end to help.

Sorry for the wrong orientation of the first pic. Loaded correctly, now can't change it.

(fixed it for you)
 

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Tophatperformance

New member
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Athens, Ga.
Wow that's tight! What pitman arm are you using? Do you by chance know the part number? Also are you runnin 1/2 adapters? Wonder if getting a 3/4 thick one would do the trick? Thanks for the help.
 
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levingtz

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Martinsburg, WV
I am running M1076 rims with 395s. Would probably help with the clearance issues as they stick out from the fenders a bit. I can easily see the tread of the drivers tire while going down the road. I can measure distance between tire and frame if you want. I don't have hydro yet though, and it's an A3. Can upload a picture as well if you are interested.
 
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levingtz

New member
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Martinsburg, WV
With wheels centered, the closest contact point between the tire and the frame is right at 15.25". Below is a picture showing the width of the tires from the fender as well as one with the wheel at full right lock. Hopefully that helps. These rims will require the hub adapter plates so that pushes the wheels out quite a bit, probably an inch or so.

M35A3_pic.jpgIMG_20160224_180423550.jpg

Hope that helps!
 
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peashooter

peashooter

Well-known member
1,038
205
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Location
Hanover, minnesota
You could go with different mrap wheels on the front such as the 20 bolt steel ones (Faithtire -member FTS0627 has inexpensive ones). Those MRAP wheels have less backspacing so they would stick out further than the rest of the MRAP wheels. Another option is PLS wheels (even less backspacing yet and they have the same mounting pattern as your MRAPS so you could reuse the adapters). Or you could get modified hemtt wheels that also would stick out further.
PLS wheels will give you the most inside clearance but may cause some rubbing due to the tire sticking out too far (others should know this, check with Patracy)

EDIT: the last picture with the welded in "center" is not a PLS wheel as its accidentally labeled, its a "recentered HEMTT" wheel.
 

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cummins7

Member
64
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Location
Spring Grove, Pa
I have 1/2" adapter plates and cut the center out of one of my stock wheels to use as a spacer and it still rubs. Another option might be turning the wheel around and have the tire stick way out, seen people do it on the rear to avoid flipping the hubs.....
these are the wheels I'm running image.jpgimage.jpg
 
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