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Prepping for paint

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Chaska, MN
So when you folks paint these seasoned vehicles, how much do you strip down?

Do you put new bolts in place for all the exposed ones like the mirrors and on troop seats and then paint over them? How do you handle hinge points like windshields and door hinges?

I'd like to know what you have done that has lasted and what you did or didn't do that has not lasted.

On the bigger trucks, do you mask off all fittings for hoses and such?
 

swbradley1

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Pressure wash, spray some primer on the bad spots and paint it.

More than the units did when they painted them. At least I use spray and not a wad of paper towels or a mop.
 

waayfast

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Depends totally on the existing surface as to the proper plan of attack.

For example, the pic of the hinge shows what typically happens over the years and multiple paint jobs. Small, odd shaped pieces that are really hard to sand usually don't get prepped(sanded) well so they eventually fail(peel). The flat, easy to sand areas are easy so they have a better chance at proper sanding so they are less prone to failure. Guessing that the cowl, frame, etc is tight (I.E. not peeling), I might tape off and sand blast to bare steel just the hinge, and sand the "good" areas normally.
You may find most everything is pretty good shape but that fender and door that got replaced was painted after a hungover private used gasoline for a final wipe down just before painting and only those pieces need totally stripped.
You may find that between the military and the civilian owners, the truck has 12 different paint jobs over the years and NONE was done correctly (how far down do we dig now and which layer/s is failing?)
If the majority of the vehicle is "tight" but just has some normal chips then one could sand down and feather edge those areas as you go. The whole idea is to not have paint falling off, so if any areas look shady, spend the time needed to assure a satisfactory bond. Sometimes you have so many issues that the only way to be totally sure is to sandblast everything down to bare steel and that is lots of work,time,and money.

Hope this helps, sorry if it confuses or frustrates. Painting can be easy but the bottom line is proper prep of the surface.

I remember years ago a guy asked me if I would teach him how to paint--I said sure thing--ya got a couple of spare years? He walked off with that deer in the headlight look.

Jim
 

topo

Well-known member
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Location
farmington NM
I like scrubbing with a stiff brush and hot soapy water hose it off and spray on paint or brush it on new paint . pressure wash works great you can clean out small places that you can't get to any other way . Bolts I have taken them out bead blasted them and painted them and put them back in( it was not worth the time)
Plated bolts I have used and they just don't look right to shinny when wrenching and the paint chips off . I try and use what ever bolt and nut I strip of one of the Military parts trucks and use it most of the time they are rusty with a little paint that reminds me or where it came from.
 

Valence

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Davis County, UT
As seen here, there's a big variety of what you can do for paint and restoration. It depends on a combination of how much time/money you want to spend and what your end goal is. Show quality restoration? Stop/prevent further rust? The true blue, unarguable truth is the more time/effort spent prepping, the better/longer lasting the end paint will be.

A rusted bolt has had its plated exterior compromised. If you blast it or sand it but it'll need paint or it will rust again. Or you can replace the bolt for maximum rust protection and paint it too if you don't like its color. I'm a big fan of the way the zinc plated Grade 8 bolts look with green or even tan and I don't feel like I have to paint over them. If it bothers you, and don't like the paint coming off when you wrench on them and you don't mind spending extra, you can buy the bolts with a black oxide finish.
 
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