Pressing Torque Rod Ends In/Out

[timgc78]

I just removed and replaced my upper torque rod inserts on my m813. The center two were tough to budge. I ended up milling a wedge out of 3/8" plate. The small end was around .187 . The slot was 2.250 wide and 2.5 deep. I ended up driving the wedge with a piece of 1.25 cold roll round bar. I tied it into the groove on the torque arm so it stayed in contact with my wedge plate and extended beyond the the end of the torque arm. After severe beating with a good size sledge hammer they both popped loose.

 

[Mullaney]

I just removed and replaced my upper torque rod inserts on my m813. The center two were tough to budge. I ended up milling a wedge out of 3/8" plate. The small end was around .187 . The slot was 2.250 wide and 2.5 deep. I ended up driving the wedge with a piece of 1.25 cold roll round bar. I tied it into the groove on the torque arm so it stayed in contact with my wedge plate and extended beyond the the end of the torque arm. After severe beating with a good size sledge hammer they both popped loose.

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If you can get "sledge hammer access" to the part of the frame that has the "socket" for the torque rod in it, a swift smack on that "socket" will jar the rod loose. Much easier than trying to drive the ball itself out of the socket.

 

[timgc78]

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If you can get "sledge hammer access" to the part of the frame that has the "socket" for the torque rod in it, a swift smack on that "socket" will jar the rod loose. Much easier than trying to drive the ball itself out of the socket.

Yeah there is absolutely no access to hit the inside of the frame in that area. The torque arm completely covers that area. You also can't hit the end of the insert on the outside because the spring plate Is in the way. My wedge idea and driving rod worked like a champ especially for a first time. I also turned a puck with a counter bore to press in the new inserts without touching the inner part. My 20 ton shop press handled the removal and installation easily.

 

[Mullaney]

Yeah there is absolutely no access to hit the inside of the frame in that area. The torque arm completely covers that area. You also can't hit the end of the insert on the outside because the spring plate Is in the way. My wedge idea and driving rod worked like a champ especially for a first time. I also turned a puck with a counter bore to press in the new inserts without touching the inner part. My 20 ton shop press handled the removal and installation easily.

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Neat! I couldn't remember for sure if you could give it a "love tap" or not, but what you described sounds like a heck of a plan. It is amazing that your 20 ton press was able to get the old insert out. You must be living right because sometimes in days gone by, a 50 ton press could be worked hard to get the old insert out.

 

[timgc78]

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Neat! I couldn't remember for sure if you could give it a "love tap" or not, but what you described sounds like a heck of a plan. It is amazing that your 20 ton press was able to get the old insert out. You must be living right because sometimes in days gone by, a 50 ton press could be worked hard to get the old insert out.

These inserts had been in since the truck was painted last as the paint matched the truck. They were a little tough as expected to get to make the first move. They broke free with the normal "bang" and came right out. I can't imagine a 50 ton press being needed. You could press out the center and carefully grind through the outer ring if one was really stuck. I've pressed apart some super stubborn parts. Try pressing the gears on and off shafts in the 5 ton transfer case. The sprague was stubborn but my press got it apart and back together.