Price for a 803A in good shape

[Hard Head]

I have seen 803a units going from 5k to 7k during hurricane season. I have several low hour 803a's for 4500 each. They have been updated and load tested. Most of my units are Marine HQ units. I even rivnut the cases as I dissemble and correct any issues with the unit. I can send pics or even a video of one running if you are interested. I have 6k in my home 803a since I put extra sound insulation, a custom exhaust hood, air flow improvements, screening, onboard dual agm battery charger, wireless monitor, and auto start. I don't sell non tested fix er up units. I cull any unit with a bad engine or stator for part out.. I can attach pics tomorrow as these units are in the warehouse and I am at home now. Sorry, don't send me this is worthless without pics. I just wanted to say what they sell for in my part of the country.

 

[Demoh]

... since I put extra sound insulation, a custom exhaust hood, air flow improvements,....

I wouldnt mind seeing what you used for extra sound insulation. my home units could be quieter as I dont like to piss my neighbors off.



Looks like we have the same mindeset / process for refurbing the units. (except the rivnuts, but me working in server rooms I have thousands of the clip nuts that the military users laying around... I prefer those as they are OE.)

although I dont do this on units I sell because I like to keep them all OE I relocate the oil pressure switch and sender to 'somewhere that doesnt vibrate'... I do this because ive received units where the oil pressure switch wire has fatigued to a point of breaking. Well a broken wire means when the switch closes it wont matter and the gen will keep running.... It should have been a NO pressure switch so you at least know theres an issue if a wire comes loose. The only units I had this issue with was the 802s because they dont run as smooth...

 

[jaxbill]

Was just reading back through your post and noticed the quoted comments. I think you will find the 60 amp circuit is just the supplemental heat strips. You should have a 40 amp circuit that runs the actual heat pump/ac unit including the evaporator and condenser fans. My MEP will start and run my 3.5 ton unit with a grunt during start but I don't think it would run the additional heat strip circuit.

So, I turned off the 60A breaker and I think it killed power to the air handler too (I think). The thermostat immediately gave a power loss error and I couldn't engage regular heat (or do anything). For me, the heat strips are colocated inside of the air handler. Are you saying that typically the inside unit/air handler typically has 2 circuits (1 for strips, 1 for blower) and a 3rd circuit for the condenser unit outside?

Edit - I googled the error on the Nest thermostat. Apparently, that breaker turned off power to the Rh/red wire, which is the power for both heating and cooling in my system.

 

[DieselAddict]

So, I turned off the 60A breaker and I think it killed power to the air handler too. The thermostat immediately gave a power loss error and I couldn't engage regular heat. For me, the heat strips are colocated inside of the air handler. Are you saying that typically the inside unit/air handler typically has 2 circuits (1 for strips, 1 for blower) and a 3rd circuit for the condenser unit outside?

Mine has 2 banks of heat strips with each bank on its own circuit. I have the one bank disconnected from the circuit it shares with the fan. With that I can control the remaining bank with the circuit breaker. A single bank is enough for my home.

If if you don't have a setup like that you can install a generator bypass relay to interrupt the control signal to the aux heat contactor.

 

[jaxbill]

Mine has 2 banks of heat strips with each bank on its own circuit. I have the one bank disconnected from the circuit it shares with the fan. With that I can control the remaining bank with the circuit breaker. A single bank is enough for my home.

If if you don't have a setup like that you can install a generator bypass relay to interrupt the control signal to the aux heat contactor.

Ok, it all adds up now. Thanks. Since my house and system is small, my single 8kw heat strip appears to be sharing the same circuit as the handler. The install manual says there should be an internal breaker for the strips inside the handler but using that is not feasible. My load manager supports 2 different 24V control wires. I guess I will use that vs. controlling it via the 240V relay.

I do need to figure out if there is a separate control wire for the strips between the condenser's defrost board and the strips. My luck I would interrupt the one to the thermostat only and then the condenser would trigger it - then an overload. That's a problem for later though.

 

[DieselAddict]

You'll need to check the schematic. I would bet you have 2 relays in the air handler that close the aux heat contactor. One for defrost and one for emergency heat. The emergency heat wire from the thermostat will be in parallel with the thermostat from the outside unit. The defrost should be a separate signal from the outside unit.