Primary Fuel Filter Trouble

[No.2Diesel]

Hallo,

Yesterday I had no problem changing both the Secondary and Final fuel filters...cleaned out the canisters, replaced rubber o-rings on the canister body and the through bolt. Torqued them to 180 in. lbs. or 15 ft. lbs.

The Primary Filter...

They just HAD to mount it on the frame rail DIRECTLY BELOW the generator. Loosened the bolt on generator ear and rotated the generator up out of the way. Apparently the generator was not out of the way enough. The 1" hex through bolt could not be pulled out all the way thus preventing me from putting on a new orange-red paper gasket at the through bolt. Replaced filter & o-ring and cleaned out canister and torqued to 15 ft.lbs. I even replaced the burnt fuse under the cover on the fuel tank and actually heard the in-tank pump run for the first time since owning it!!

I then ran the pump and bled all the air out and fired up the engine. Fuel started pulsating out of were the through bolt mates with the cast housing. I also noticed that the Primary has no vent. Will I be able to take out the four bolts holding the filter housing to the bracket and push it down slightly so I can take the through bolt out to replace the gasket?? I don't feel like disconnecting any fuel lines to do this.

Are all Primary Fuel filters mounted so far forward and in the same spot for every M35A2?

I can't wait to see if there is an actual difference in driving performance with a running pump.

When not fried, Turkey and Chicken always taste like sawdust (dry) no matter how much gravy is put on them. Beef or Alaskan King Crab (or any seafood) for Thanksgiving is much better.

 

[houdel]

I did my primary filter by the book - disconnected the fuel lines, removed the bracket from the frame and did the filter change on the bench. Yes, it IS a PITA, but so is moving the alternator and then readjusting it - plus I didn't get any leaks (didn't replace the red gasket under the filter bowl bolt either). Took the wife and I about 4 hours to get it done.

Come to think of it, about every maintenance job I've done on the Deuce - changing the primary filter, changing the secondary filters, replacing a knuckle boot, changing the oil and filters, replacing a pinion seal - all took about 4 hours each. Must be a Mil Spec requirement, so an Army mechanic gets to work on two trucks a day.

Next primary filter change I'm going to replace the existing primary fuel filter with a Goldenrod fuel filter. Should take me about the proscribed 4 hours, then I'll have a clear polycarbonate filter cannister so I can do a visual check for water without having to crack the drain fitting. The screw off cannister and filter element should reduce my primary filter change to about 15 minutes.

 

[bassariscus]

I tried removing the filter w/out moving the fuel lines, eventually I got fed up and did it by the book. I agree w/houdel, it is a PITA, but that's the only way it works on mine.

 

[cranetruck]

Hmmm...I just loosen the bolt on top and turn the canister from below pulling down slightly to keep the bolt from turning. Like a spin-on and no need to move the geerator/alternator as long as you can get the wrench on the bolt head.

 

[OPCOM]

same here. Thought of trying to relocate the filter down a little, but it's OK.

 

[westfolk]

I do it the way Bjorn does, not to bad. Or do what Devilman96 has.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&func=viewpub&tid=3&pid=48

 

[jatonka]

I have done the PITA way too many times and I decided to do something different, We now make a spin on primary/water separator filter adaptor, put it on once and from then on, just spin on and spin off. My adaptor goes right on your existing primary base and uses a Napa 3405 primary water separator fuel filter with a drain cock at the bottom just like the military canister. Someone earlier mentioned that they want the heavy steel can instead of a thin spin-on filter because it is an off road truck, well, take a look at where tha filter is, you'd have to be really off roading to hit that filter. I have installed them on my 5 ton dump trucks(M51A2) that we work off road and they are a lot more exposed on them and no troubles. One of the contributing writers at Military Vehicles is using one of my adaptors and he loves it. John Tennnis

 

[ida34]

I did mine like Bjorn said a few weeks ago. Took me about 15 minutes and no leaks. I say this just to frustrate Lee although it is true. I am sure the next time you can get it down under 3:45.

 

[JDToumanian]

We now make a spin on primary/water separator filter adaptor, put it on once and from then on, just spin on and spin off. My adaptor goes right on your existing primary base and uses a Napa 3405 primary water separator fuel filter with a drain cock at the bottom just like the military canister.

That's great! Got a pic? How is this made, is it something CNC cut from solid aluminum? I was planning to buy a filter mount from NAPA and converting that way but yours would save a lot of work.

Regards,
Jon

 

[houdel]

The NAPA conversion is OK, but a little pricey. You can get the entire Goldenrod filter (base, bowl and filter element from TSC for $24.72. Replacement elements are $4.86, plus you have the clear polycarbonate bowl to check for water without having to open the drain.

The only problem is mounting the base, as it has no mounting holes. I plan on using a short 1" pipe nipple on both sides of the filter with appropriate reducing bushings to fit the original fuel line fittings to the 1" pipe. As for mounting the assembly to the frame I plan to use "U" bolts over the 1" pipe nipples to bolt the assembly to the frame. I'll use the original filter mounting bracket holes for one leg of each "U" bolt and drill two more holes outboard of the original holes for the other leg of the "U" bolts.

The whole job shouldn't take much longer than the by the book PITA way to change the stock primary filter and I'll have the advantages of a clear polycarbonate bowl to check for water and a $4.86 screw off replacement element. As I just changed my stock filter element, I probably won't do the conversion until next summer. When I do I'll post pictures of the conversion.

 

[Recovry4x4]

While I still use the original setup, I did remove the frame bracket and reattach it below the frame. This change buys me almost a half inch more clearance.

 

[cranetruck]

You also have a choice of elements using the original set-up.
The Purplator 053754-01 on the left is cleanable and can be used over and over, good if you are on the road. The NAPA 3511 is basically a thow-away type and much cheaper.

 

[ken]

If you'll notice the bracket is sitting on top of the frame rail. Just unbolt the bracket and stick it under the top frame rail and put the bolts back in. Instead of the bracket resting on top, it will be held up by the bolts. This drops it down about 1/2 inch. And a wrench then easily fits with out having to move the alternator. Just loosen the bolt untill the canester turns freely and spin the canester untill it's free. It then only takes about a minute and a half to two minutes to change the primary. And you can do it from under the truck with out even having to lift the hood.

 

[No.2Diesel]

Thanks everyone for all of your input.

On Friday I took all four bolts that attach the housing to the bracket out and just pushed the housing down with my finger about an 1/8th of an inch and I could pull the through bolt out. The old paper gasket was the leak point. Its not that bad after all. I have to say that tightening the generator on the Deuce is the easiest thing ever. It takes very little effort to tighten it. Probably because your pulling down on it instead of up or sideways like on most cars and trucks.

Thank you Mr. Crane for informing me that the carbon type filter is re-usable. I'm glad I did not throw it away yet. My Secondary and Final filters were black.

 

[nickd]

I have the spin on adapter made by Jatonka. Its great! I cant wait for the spin on iol filter adapters john is working on to be available.

 

[JDToumanian]

I have the spin on adapter made by Jatonka.

I realize John is busy and not on here every day, but can someone post a pic of this? How much does it cost? I think it's a great idea.

Jon

 

[nickd]

I do not have a picture of the adapter since it is located behind the new spin on filter. It is a solid round machined aluminum disc that fits onto the existing filter housing and has the proper fitting on the other side that will accept the spin on style seperator type fuel filter.

 

[ida34]

Anyone converting to a spin on primary let me know if you want to sell the original.

 

[Iron Mike]

ALGAE ALERT: the black or green slime that is in the filters is generally algae
from a diesel fueltank not being kept filled to the lip, leaving no oxygen.
The oxygen is needed for the algae to grow and will stop a Ship at Sea
(ask me how I know!).

If you don't mind paying the Mercedes kind of prices, a very popular
brand of filter amongst truckers and Bluewater sailors is Racor.
Their lives depend upon them.

Racor makes a heated and unheated primary filter with choices of filter elements
down to 2 microns (l micron = a human cell, 100microns = a human hair),
with a viewing bowl for a water seperator. You can drain the water
periodically without removing the filter element.
I use them on my Benz diesels and my boat diesels, but with a deuces consumption, I'd recommend the 10 or 20 micron element so that you do not starve the FI pump from
over filtration backup. The unit looks like the attached photo.
It doubles as a fuel check to make sure that you have fuel passing thru at that point
in the line and can be mounted higher or lower for your convenience.
Since they make a comlete rebuild kit for a secondhand filter, Hint -
Hint: It is typical to find in Junkyards in Mercedes Diesel Cars or any diesel car,
bolted in the engine compartments as those owners pay dearly for a Bosch FI pump.
See Peugeot, Volvo, Mercedes, VW, Ford, Chevy and Mitsubishi for the filters secondhand. They range from 10-20 depending upon the yard, but new are about $150
with 1 filter.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Chuck, you need a spare primary? I probably have one!