• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Private Snuffy just about got me..... BIG TIME!!!

RRaulston

Well-known member
227
550
93
Location
Sahuarita, Arizona
So in my bid to complete the fluid change on all components, the transmission was next. I crawl under and drain the transfer case. Got a few gallons of 15w 40 which was dark but not burnt. It was old. I then make my way to the trans pan and reach up and touch the plug and it wobbles. Confused, I first try to tighten it to verify it was loose and it won't tighten. IT WON'T FREAKING TIGHTEN! So, I remove it, and, in the pic, you can see what I found. A transfer case drain plug. I have to be the luckiest guy ever in that the plug didn't fall out and ruin the trans... The other pic shows the threads in the pan. I think there are enough threads left to be safe with the correct plug. Weird, but I'm so pissed and thankful at the same time.... Does anyone have an Allison part number for the pan plug? No kidding, I'm touching everything on this truck before I venture out more than 10 miles. (my insurance tow limit) Thanks!!

20221209_130645.jpg
20221209_130456.jpg
 

Wingnut13

Well-known member
235
562
93
Location
Strafford, NH
It would be a pretty easy part to machine from scratch or from a correctly sized bolt. That way you could engage those five threads you have left.

Other option would be to pull the pan, weld it back up and then drill/tap your drain hole again.

All sorts of options before you spend a couple kilobucks on a new pan.
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,000
5,127
113
Location
Portland, OR
There are drain plug specific thread repair kits. No need to even pull it off.

 

MrMikey4026

Well-known member
281
417
63
Location
Eatonville Washington
FB_IMG_1642990016336.jpgFB_IMG_1642990032884.jpgFB_IMG_1642990020077.jpg What you are calling the pan is really the valve module. The pan is not separate and is not a lot of fun to remove and replace. If you have watched the video on Helicools Helipad on YouTube of his transmission service , you will see that his drain plug is just a fine threaded bolt with a copper washer on it. That is the way that I would manage the problem. You would probably have to run a tap with grease on it to clean up the damaged part of the threads. The grease will collect the chips. The plug can be seen at about four minutes and again at eight minutes.
Cheers.
 
Last edited:

RRaulston

Well-known member
227
550
93
Location
Sahuarita, Arizona
There are drain plug specific thread repair kits. No need to even pull it off.

View attachment 886011View attachment 886012View attachment 886013 What you are calling the pan is really the valve module. The pan is not separate and is not a lot of fun to remove and replace. If you have watched the video on Helicools Helipad on YouTube of his transmission service , you will see that his drain plug is just a fine threaded bolt with a copper washer on it. That is the way that I would manage the problem. You would probably have to run a tap with grease on it to clean up the damaged part of the threads. The grease will collect the chips. The plug can be seen at about four minutes and again at eight minutes.
Cheers.
I had no idea it was that complicated. So, I fixed it today. The plug is a 3/4-16 thread. I bought a 2" bolt and cut the threads down 1/4". I then used my band saw and cut half the thickness of the head off. It will clear the exhaust without interference now. Since I had several threads deep in the hole that were good, it threaded in with no issues. We are good now. I will time-sert it someday, but the 3/4-16 kit was over $300 and, well, its xmas and have to keep the family happy.. Thanks for all your great suggestions!!
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,266
1,987
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
For those looking to repair, I don't think Timesert has the correct kit for this application. Full-Torque has an insert with the counterbore for the o-rings.

 
Top