problem with my cucv

para 3

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Hello I changed my injection pump (new) on my cucv the old one was a db2829 / 4267 the new db2829 / 4521 does it matter because I can not adjust the timing new diesel pump, new filter, revised injector, new glow plug the truck no longer starts when the key is pressed, it must be emphasized, it smokes more than before and has lost power and has difficulty staying idle after acceleration the engine oil is clean, the water too question: when we remove the pi can we shift the pump gear? do you have a tip for setting the static timing mn by mn? thank you
 

2INSANE

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Why did you change everything? How was it running before you changed everything? Can you install a clear fuel hose between Injection pump and return line to check for air in the lines? Did you replace the lift pump?

Try to advance the timing in the injection pump by turning it toward driver side. If that does not work, try to retard timing by turning injection pump passenger side.
 

para 3

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Why did you change everything? How was it running before you changed everything? Can you install a clear fuel hose between Injection pump and return line to check for air in the lines? Did you replace the lift pump?

Try to advance the timing in the injection pump by turning it toward driver side. If that does not work, try to retard timing by turning injection pump passenger side.
thank you for your reply all the rubber hoses are new, the returns too I tried different timing for the pi a little to the left, or a little to the right no result
 

para 3

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Why did you change everything? How was it running before you changed everything? Can you install a clear fuel hose between Injection pump and return line to check for air in the lines? Did you replace the lift pump?

Try to advance the timing in the injection pump by turning it toward driver side. If that does not work, try to retard timing by turning injection pump passenger side.
the sump pump has been changed the tank removed and cleaned,
 

2INSANE

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Where did you get the ip and injectors from? If your old IP and injectors worked just fine, I would put them back on and get a refund on the ones you just got.
 

Sharecropper

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Where did you get the ip and injectors from? If your old IP and injectors worked just fine, I would put them back on and get a refund on the ones you just got.
C’mon Insane, get serious. There’s not a pump service on the planet that would provide a refund on a pump after it was installed. Same goes for the injectors. The fellow obviously needs help, and has asked for it here on SS in a respectful way. Your comments do not help but instead makes the OP feel that maybe he has come to the wrong place for help. Your reply, in my opinion, goes against the grain of the spirit of SS.

TO THE OP -
Mount your pump with the timing marks perfectly aligned. Then plumb in an electric pump back close to the tank and energize it with a 12-volt power source while opening the bleed screw on the OEM box filter. Once you know you have fuel to the filter and the air purged out of the filter, close the bleed screw and shut off the electric pump. Then crack open every injection line at each injector, and reenergize the electric pump. Let it run until there is a steady flow of fuel coming out of each line, then shut off the electric pump, tighten the lines, and it should crank. If it does not, then you have a bigger issue to track down. But you cannot begin to track down a big issue until you know the pump is timed correctly and you know you have fuel to the injectors. Make sure the wire on top of the injection pump is energized when you turn on the key. If it is not, then you have a wiring issue, not a fuel issue.
Hope this helps.
 

para 3

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C’mon Insane, get serious. There’s not a pump service on the planet that would provide a refund on a pump after it was installed. Same goes for the injectors. The fellow obviously needs help, and has asked for it here on SS in a respectful way. Your comments do not help but instead makes the OP feel that maybe he has come to the wrong place for help. Your reply, in my opinion, goes against the grain of the spirit of SS.

TO THE OP -
Mount your pump with the timing marks perfectly aligned. Then plumb in an electric pump back close to the tank and energize it with a 12-volt power source while opening the bleed screw on the OEM box filter. Once you know you have fuel to the filter and the air purged out of the filter, close the bleed screw and shut off the electric pump. Then crack open every injection line at each injector, and reenergize the electric pump. Let it run until there is a steady flow of fuel coming out of each line, then shut off the electric pump, tighten the lines, and it should crank. If it does not, then you have a bigger issue to track down. But you cannot begin to track down a big issue until you know the pump is timed correctly and you know you have fuel to the injectors. Make sure the wire on top of the injection pump is energized when you turn on the key. If it is not, then you have a wiring issue, not a fuel issue.
Hope this helps.
thanks Sharecropper, all the manipulations you mentioned have been done, except the electric pump, the fuel pump works well (cucv military manual, flow, pressure: it is new) the injectors have been checked (good pressure, do not drip) the k5 starts after insistence (the glow plugs work), but starts the fuel is well purged (filter, pipe, pi, injector) when disassembling the old worn pi, is it possible to shift the pump gear by one tooth or more? the gear seems to be stuck in the housing as written in another post, the pump numbers are not the same (original 4267, replacing 4521) on your exellent forum, in the list of pumps, you can replace the 4267 by 4520 (the 4521 is set for different fuel) problem or not? the static timing is set like the old pump 1mn more to the driver I could not check the marks of the pi gear because I did not disassemble the water pump according to the manual TM 9-2815-237-34 when the pmh (dead zero) mark is aligned the free hole of the gear is at 6 o'clock I think my static timing is not good, but how can I easily adjust it? thank you
 

2INSANE

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thanks Sharecropper, all the manipulations you mentioned have been done, except the electric pump, the fuel pump works well (cucv military manual, flow, pressure: it is new) the injectors have been checked (good pressure, do not drip) the k5 starts after insistence (the glow plugs work), but starts the fuel is well purged (filter, pipe, pi, injector) when disassembling the old worn pi, is it possible to shift the pump gear by one tooth or more? the gear seems to be stuck in the housing as written in another post, the pump numbers are not the same (original 4267, replacing 4521) on your exellent forum, in the list of pumps, you can replace the 4267 by 4520 (the 4521 is set for different fuel) problem or not? the static timing is set like the old pump 1mn more to the driver I could not check the marks of the pi gear because I did not disassemble the water pump according to the manual TM 9-2815-237-34 when the pmh (dead zero) mark is aligned the free hole of the gear is at 6 o'clock I think my static timing is not good, but how can I easily adjust it? thank you
Having the correct injection pump and correct injectors is crucial for a properly working motor. Injector pop pressures must match the injection pump.

Your old ip
DB2829-4267 14077179 1984-85 CUCV (Military), HD C/K, D Truck C/K DB2829-4520 Note 2 except (d)

Your new ip
DB2829-4521 23500414 1986-87 CUCV (Military), HD D Truck - 1.2 cSt C/K — —

What year is your truck?
What is the brand and part number of the injectors you used?

I had the same problem you have. I tried 3 different injection pumps from 3 different sources.

You mentioned you had replaced the mechanical lift pump? It is possible the lift pump you have is not working because of the different style pump arm. Do you have a part number on the lift pump by chance?
 
Last edited:

Sharecropper

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You mentioned you had replaced the mechanical lift pump? It is possible the lift pump you have is not working because of the different style pump arm. Do you have a part number on the lift pump by chance?
Thanks for chiming in Insaane. Yeah my suspicion is the lift pump is either bad or incorrect. At least that would be where I would start to try to determine the issue. CUCVRUS did a great article about the incorrect lift pump a while back - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/fuel-issue-bad-injection-pump.200625/post-2336975 One way to determine if it is the lift pump would be to plumb in an electric pump back towards the tank and then see if the truck would crank when the electric pump was pumping. This would be the fastest, easiest, and cheapest way to validate the stock lift pump.
 

LT67

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Thanks for chiming in Insaane. Yeah my suspicion is the lift pump is either bad or incorrect. At least that would be where I would start to try to determine the issue. CUCVRUS did a great article about the incorrect lift pump a while back - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/fuel-issue-bad-injection-pump.200625/post-2336975 One way to determine if it is the lift pump would be to plumb in an electric pump back towards the tank and then see if the truck would crank when the electric pump was pumping. This would be the fastest, easiest, and cheapest way to validate the stock lift pump.
I just went through this on my 86 M1008. The parts house had the wrong lift pump...
 

para 3

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I post these pictures every time I read about the fuel pump issue again.

This pump with the straight arm is the correct pump.View attachment 826615


This pump with the bent arm is the wrong pump.View attachment 826616
thanks sneekyeye
my pump is new the one with the right arm the flow rate is in accordance with the military manual, the pressure also when my m1009 is started, he smokes and has no power
 

para 3

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Having the correct injection pump and correct injectors is crucial for a properly working motor. Injector pop pressures must match the injection pump.

Your old ip
DB2829-4267 14077179 1984-85 CUCV (Military), HD C/K, D Truck C/K DB2829-4520 Note 2 except (d)

Your new ip
DB2829-4521 23500414 1986-87 CUCV (Military), HD D Truck - 1.2 cSt C/K — —

What year is your truck?
What is the brand and part number of the injectors you used?

I had the same problem you have. I tried 3 different injection pumps from 3 different sources.

You mentioned you had replaced the mechanical lift pump? It is possible the lift pump you have is not working because of the different style pump arm. Do you have a part number on the lift pump by chance?
hello
the lift pump is the one with the right arm, has no visible number, the flow and pressure are good (military manual) my m1009 is from 1985, original Bosch injector revised only the pi number is different (4521 for 4267 (old pump))
 

2INSANE

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hello
the lift pump is the one with the right arm, has no visible number, the flow and pressure are good (military manual) my m1009 is from 1985, original Bosch injector revised only the pi number is different (4521 for 4267 (old pump))
Ok. I am back to questioning your injection pump and injectors. Will you post video of the motor running and show the exhaust as well?

Also where did you get the pump and the injectors? Yes it matters.

Is there any Thumping noises from the intake?

Any ticking noises?

Could you install a inline fuel pressure gauge after the fuel filter and let us know what fuel pressure you are getting?The needle on the gauge should be bouncing back and forth between 5-7 psi if the mechanical lift pump is working correctly, fuel filter and lines not clogged or kinked. A inline gauge just like mine pictured below.

When was the last time you put fresh diesel fuel in it?

Did you check for any air in the fuel lines?
 

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Last edited:

Sharecropper

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Guys, I just now remembered something. Back in 1985 I was running a civi K-20 diesel on my hunting trips out west, and on one particular return trip from Wyoming to Georgia, my 6.2 diesel began to sputter on I-70 in Kansas so I pulled into a truck stop around 3:00 a.m. My fuel gauge did not indicate that I was completely out of fuel, but it was low enough that I needed to fill up anyway. I pulled up to the pump and cut her off. After filling the tank, the truck would not re-start. I would crank for 10-15 seconds, then let it rest for a few minutes, then try again, but after several of these episodes, I realized that something had to be wrong. So I went into the truck stop office and asked if they had a mechanic there who could troubleshoot the problem. They did, and out came a tow vehicle to pull my truck into the drive-through truck repair bay. The mechanic was an old arrogant fart who didn't say much. After fooling with it a few minutes, he pulled out the check valve on top of the injection pump. He then said, "here's the problem". The check valve was stopped up in the closed position. It would not allow a sufficient fuel flow to come through the pump. Because it was after 3:00 a.m. on a Sunday morning, and the chances of getting a new check valve were slim to none, I watched him take check valve over to his vice and drive a 16-penny nail through it and bust out the glass ball. He then blew it out with his air hose and replaced it back onto the top of the pump. The truck cranked perfectly. I paid the $15 service bill and continued on my way.

So before you go to the extent of replacing the pump and injectors, take a look at that check valve. If it is stopped up and preventing or restricting the flow of fuel through the pump, that just might be your problem. The check valve is Model #23183 from Stanadyne and they are regularly on Ebay for around $30. You might want to do a search on there. I have a new spare I keep in my tool box.

Hope this helps.
 

dougco1

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Guys, I just now remembered something. Back in 1985 I was running a civi K-20 diesel on my hunting trips out west, and on one particular return trip from Wyoming to Georgia, my 6.2 diesel began to sputter on I-70 in Kansas so I pulled into a truck stop around 3:00 a.m. My fuel gauge did not indicate that I was completely out of fuel, but it was low enough that I needed to fill up anyway. I pulled up to the pump and cut her off. After filling the tank, the truck would not re-start. I would crank for 10-15 seconds, then let it rest for a few minutes, then try again, but after several of these episodes, I realized that something had to be wrong. So I went into the truck stop office and asked if they had a mechanic there who could troubleshoot the problem. They did, and out came a tow vehicle to pull my truck into the drive-through truck repair bay. The mechanic was an old arrogant fart who didn't say much. After fooling with it a few minutes, he pulled out the check valve on top of the injection pump. He then said, "here's the problem". The check valve was stopped up in the closed position. It would not allow a sufficient fuel flow to come through the pump. Because it was after 3:00 a.m. on a Sunday morning, and the chances of getting a new check valve were slim to none, I watched him take check valve over to his vice and drive a 16-penny nail through it and bust out the glass ball. He then blew it out with his air hose and replaced it back onto the top of the pump. The truck cranked perfectly. I paid the $15 service bill and continued on my way.

So before you go to the extent of replacing the pump and injectors, take a look at that check valve. If it is stopped up and preventing or restricting the flow of fuel through the pump, that just might be your problem. The check valve is Model #23183 from Stanadyne and they are regularly on Ebay for around $30. You might want to do a search on there. I have a new spare I keep in my tool box.

Hope this helps.
23183 | Stanadyne Connection | Highway and Heavy Parts
 
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