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Proper sized tires for the A1 in transit

jeeplvr247

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After months of rolling around on 6x16" NDT tires my Jeep is finally going to get the correct sized tire. I am hoping the size difference will help me keep up with traffic a little better and ease some revs off the engine. I am selling the old tires tomorrow and mounting the new ones sometime next week. Is it necessary to have the tire shop balance the new tires? I have heard on older cars they often do not balance them correctly and may not even be needed. That being said, I did hear that on the internet and we all know that there is a lot of BS floating around out there.
 

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quickfarms

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It depends on how you drive. You can probably get away with them not being balanced at below 40 mph. Above that there are so many issues that come into play. Mine will comfortably cruse at 60 with the OD and 50 without it. Yes my tires are balanced.
 

jeeplvr247

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45 is about the fastest I go so I am going to see how it goes. The reason I was wondering was because I saw some articles saying that most tire shops can not properly balance bias ply tires with an old school suspension. I dont know how true that is. I am sticking with the 6x16" tire for my spare, my buyer only wanted 4 tires. I will probably upgrade eventually but I am just a poor college student right now.
 

clinto

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After months of rolling around on 6x16" NDT tires my Jeep is finally going to get the correct sized tire.
I thought the 6.00x16 was the original size and everyone upgraded to the 7.50x16 to get more cruising speed from the additional height.

Is it necessary to have the tire shop balance the new tires? I have heard on older cars they often do not balance them correctly and may not even be needed.
A spinning wheel is a spinning wheel, regardless if it's on an 2012 911 Turbo or a 1940 Packard. It may be more important to balance a tire that is on a vehicle that is driven 70 vs. a vehicle that only goes 40, but both should still be done.

I would have them balanced. Maybe you don't feel it, but they will take longer to wear out, due to more even wear.

No idea about the "correct" balance-all you do is put the tire/wheel assy. on the machine, tell the machine how large and wide the tire/wheel is and let it do its thing.

The reason I was wondering was because I saw some articles saying that most tire shops can not properly balance bias ply tires with an old school suspension.
I'll have to look at my machine today (a Hunter GSP9700 road force unit) to be sure, but I do not remember different settings for bias ply and radial.

Not sure what suspension has to do with it. Whether it's an old school straight axle or a modern double wishbone, the key is for the tire to be in balance.
 

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jeeplvr247

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See, that is what I get for listening to the internet. I also believed the article that said tube type tires were easy to remove by hand with no special tools, after about a half hour of fighting with the first tire I gave up and had them all dismounted for $12. Also about the original tire, stock is a 7.00x16" NDCC, some people upgrade to a 7.5. I am going with NDT tires in 7x16" because I like the looks and they are cheaper than the NDCCs.
 

clinto

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Ok, I stand corrected on the 6.00-7.00 thing.

They are easy to break down if you have all the special tools. If you don't, it sucks.

I break down everything on the machine-even my Mule tires-the machine can just barely grab the inside of the mule rim. I break down the outside bead, then pull it over the lip of the rim, fish the tube out, then dismount the rest of the way.
 

jeeplvr247

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Well at $3 per tire I fugured that I might as well let the tire shop take care of it and save me the headache. I have a new question now. The insides of my wheels have a decent amount of surface rust. I plan on sanding them down and lightly painting them just to keep the rust at bay. Is this a good idea or should I just sand them?
 

porkysplace

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I would sand them down and use a rusty metal primer before painting . You should clean them up before having them balanced .
 

M715VFD405

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I would do a good sanding and then a rustreformer type job on them you want the inside as smooth as possible even something small in there can where through a tube, although the liner should help there but better safe then sorry IMHO
 

clinto

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I would wire wheel or abrasive blast the inside of the rim (that's what I do with mine). Then paint with something good.
 

jeeplvr247

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I have a few of the rims cleaned up now and I will be ready for paint soon. What is a good brand to go with to keep the rust at bay? Also, is something glossy best for keeping the tube from wearing?
 

Danl

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If you cleaned the rims real good feel free to paint them with rust paint but don't paint the beed seal jest coat them with grease, coat them with alot of greese befor you paint them after the paint is dry wipe the greese off of the beed and the small amount of greese that is left on the beed is enougft to do the job.By greesing the beed befor you paint. Will wipe the over spray from the paint off of the Beed leaving it clean and paint free, and the greese will stop the rust on the beed
 

Danl

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Danl M915A1

that is a good Questain. I gest it is how you feel about the rubber meeting the rim,. I would want the best seal on the bead that I can have. Even haveing A tube in there I really don't want road salt, or other fine corroasttis stuff finding there way in. but thats me maybe nothing can enter, I really don't know, but safer is better2cents
 
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