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Proper Way to Clean 6.2 Engine (CUCV M1009)???

jplace1011

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Quick Question About Cleaning my 6.2 Engine. We just replaced a few Gasket and Seals for my CUCV M1009, 6.2L.

I would like to clean the engine to determine that the leaks have stopped.

What is the Best and Safest way to clean my engine? I don’t want to crack the block, destroy any components, etc.

Not sure that it matters, I live in Southern California. The weather has been in the upper 60’s/70’s as of late. As always the Communism is at an all time high though.

Thank you for any advice.


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cucvrus

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Terminus M1009 | Page 20 | SteelSoldiers
Back in the day my M1009 engine would get a bit dusty, and I would just use the old pressure washer. DSCF3383.JPG I checked and kept the oil full and it never gave me any issues. One thing that was great about the dust was it made oil leaks easy to locate. A dry dusty engine with just dust told me the engine was tight and had no leaks. DSCF3384 (1).JPG DSCF3384 (2).JPG Most times the only area that was wet and appeared leaking was the hydro lines that ran to the brake booster and steering. DSCF3385 (1).JPG
After I was done pressure washing I had a nice clean engine that was ready for hard use again.
DSCF3431 (1).JPG
I want to tell you my M1009 is stock form was an impressive vehicle. Good Luck. No worries with the pressure washer. I washed hundreds of CUCV's everywhere like this. Inside the cab and out.
 

Barrman

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This is like asking what oil you should run in your engine. You will get lots of opinions. Just do it the way you want and are comfortable with.

My opinion is that I don’t like pressure washers on engines that are going to be run again. I love pressure washers on engines coming apart. I like to spray purple power at full strength. Let it sit for a while and then use just a garden hose with no nozzle to rinse it off. Spots that aren’t cleaned get sprayed again and scrubbed with a brush or scraper or something to help. Then rinsed with a hose again.

I also don’t like spraying on alternators or power steering pumps directly. That is my stopping point.
 

87cr250r

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Caustic degreasers work great but I have noticed that they remove frame paint that has had oil/grease sitting on it for a long time. Zep Big Orange is a powerful degreaser that I have found to be safe for paint. Simple Green etches paint. A solvent gun can be useful.
 

jplace1011

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Santa Ana, CA
Caustic degreasers work great but I have noticed that they remove frame paint that has had oil/grease sitting on it for a long time. Zep Big Orange is a powerful degreaser that I have found to be safe for paint. Simple Green etches paint. A solvent gun can be useful.
@87cr250r look at that, there’s a different version of the Zep Orange Cleaner here in Commifornia. It’s probably not as powerful as the version available in Free States, but still worth a try.




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cucvrus

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I'll have to disagree with you. I've used it on a variety of vehicles with no ill effects. Safe for aluminum too, doesn't etch.
We use the Awesome stuff from Dollar General all the time to clean up brand new trucks on the assembly line. We spray the aluminum extrusions and all with it. Now if we were to soak it and let it sit, I cannot vouch for the results. But I agree it is inexpensive cleaner and seems to be very versatile. Besides worrying about the paint on an old CUCV is pointless. You can touch it up with a spray can and it looks like new. Happy Thanksgiving.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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I found this owner's manual in a 1986 M1009 I bought back in 1996. DSCF8984.JPGThis is the section on cleaning the diesel engine right from the GM owner's manual. DSCF8985.JPG
I liked the spark arrester part.
DSCF8986.JPG
Costly engine damage is the point here. Starting fluids work however only when used in moderation. Some people cannot grasp moderation. Have a Great Day and Happy Thanksgiving
 

87cr250r

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They're mostly still available. These aren't solvent based or have flash points over 140F so they aren't controlled under the VOC rules.

The Big Orange is orange based and cost is highly dependent on winter temps. The price goes up if there is a winter freeze.

I have noticed a lack of caustic degreasers at the hardware stores lately. I don't think it has anything to do with regulations, I'm still seeing shortages of all kinds of products. Grease is even harder to get than degreaser.

Butyl degreasers are becoming more common. They don't work for that baked on grease.
 

G744

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Hidden Valley, Az
Having had numerous 2-stroke Detroits in my life, I had to clean 'em up regularly.

I found 1:1 Diesel fuel and Dawn liquid did the job.

This makes an emulsion, so keep shaking a bit in a trigger spray bottle or garden sprayer so it doesn't separate. The fuel cuts into the grease, the soap surfects it away when rinsed.

Let is sit an hour or two, then hose off without too much pressure. For old spots or really tough stuff, use a stiff bristle brush to help it out.

If you're worried about the electrics, blow them dry with compressed air.

50-state available, just be aware all that crap has to go somewheres...

Kitty litter will keep it from flowing everywhere.
 

Dieselmeister

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Flagstaff, Az
I have found that "Oil Flow" from Titan Labs (Amazon) works great on really gunked up hard grease deposits. There are different versions of Oil Flow, depending on your need. This will dissolve just about anything including most adhesives and plastics.
 
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