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Pull Starting a CUCV

detroitdiesel4x4

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My trucks on the fritz thanks to my flexplate missing a few teeth. I've been cheating and just rotating the crank to get it started but now it sounds like it has about 9 teeth left totally. I was planning on pulling the trans out today and riding my bicycle to work, but then it looked like rain. The only other truck at my house I have registered is out for the count this week due to a cracked head, I figured the old girl would be good for just one last ride. Made it to work okay, but now it stuck there. I planned on not driving the truck anymore until it was fixed so I lent my red top to a friend and ended up putting an interstate in to get her running, wich apparently wasn't a good choice. Not only can I get enough teeth to grab to get it to start, the batteries went dead :( Before I go trying to fit my trailer all the way down the narrow lane (of course I parked all the way in the back not wanting to leak oil on the asphalt) would it be possible just to pull this thing up to speed and put it in drive? I'm sill running the TH400. I used to use this method to start one of my old toters that was automatic, and believe it or not, it works just like a manual, only requires alittle bit more speed. I didn't know if this was 1)possible to do with a TH400 and 2) possible to do with a diesel. Any input? Or any other ideas to get it home?
 

Gripy

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I'd be interested to know this as well. I personally think that it should be possible, but my thoughts are worth what you paid for them.
 

doghead

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If you can push it up to 35mph with a rope, it will work.
 

doghead

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You'll need a really stiff rope to push it. Use at least 20' straight forward.
 

Crash_AF

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If you read carefully, you'll realize Doghead is being funny...

I don't think you can do this on a TH400. The only transmissions I know this works on are old Chrysler Torqueflights with the oil pump on the output shaft. Then the transmission is making pressure which will spin the torque convertor when put in drive.

IIRC, the TH400 has the oil pump on the input, which will prevent this from working.

If you have a good sized breaker bar, you can turn the engine by hand to get past the missing teeth on the flexplate.

Good luck
 

doghead

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You need to tie a Twined Turk's head Wagoner's hitch with a Single carrick bend and a West Country whipping to the pintle hitch of the truck being pushed.
 

Skinny

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You may be able to get a big recoil off some large power equipment and retrofit it to the 6.2

May require 4 people pulling though...
 

doghead

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Westech once suck-started a deuce.
 

DUG

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It CAN be pull started. Simply remove the current transmission and transfer case. Install a Muncie Rock Crusher "borrowed" from your buddies 67 Chevelle. Install new custom drive shaft. Put into 2nd gear and push the newly added clutch pedal to the floor. Turn key to the ON position. Pull via rope, chain, hemp fibers, etc to 5-8 mph. Dump clutch and listen to her purr. Remove pull device PRIOR to driving home.
 

detroitdiesel4x4

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so this thing cant be pull started? And I have rotated the crank, many many times. Seems like there's barely any teeth at all left on it, so no matter where I position it, it barely gets a good bite. I have a feeling the flexplate came loose and was wobbeling around getting its teeth chewed off every time I started it
 

jw4x4

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No, it cannot be started until you replace the flex plate. Be sure to do a close inspection of the starter while you're at it.
 

doghead

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They do not have vacuum boosted brakes.
 

wayne pick

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The old GM Powerslide 2sp trans could start a vehicle this way as it had both a front and rear pump. The driveshaft turns the rear pump sending oil to the torque converter and clutches. Once the clutches hook up, it completes the mechanical connection to the engine. Saw my dad do it back in the 60s.
 
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