Pulling blower wheel--MEP002A

[Harleyd315]

From my experience, I would leave the bolt in the end of the crankshaft as you did to eliminate the chance of mushrooming the end of the shaft, making sure you have some free space as you indicated. Then tighten the puller up as tight as you can, take a hammer, a good sized one, and hit the center bolt of the puller as hard as you can,retighten the puller and repeat until the fan is off. If that doesn't work maybe add a little heat to the fan as close to the center as possible. Just my 2 cents

 

[1800 Diesel]

From my experience, I would leave the bolt in the end of the crankshaft as you did to eliminate the chance of mushrooming the end of the shaft, making sure you have some free space as you indicated. Then tighten the puller up as tight as you can, take a hammer, a good sized one, and hit the center bolt of the puller as hard as you can,retighten the puller and repeat until the fan is off. If that doesn't work maybe add a little heat to the fan as close to the center as possible. Just my 2 cents

Thanks--For this unit, if the DC charging system works (after I repair the fuse connection) I'll be leaving it alone and the next unit will be my test for pulling the wheel...it too is not charging. But as Speddmon mentioned I still need to run through the basic troubleshooting steps.

 

[Speddmon]

Thanks--For this unit, if the DC charging system works (after I repair the fuse connection) I'll be leaving it alone and the next unit will be my test for pulling the wheel...it too is not charging. But as Speddmon mentioned I still need to run through the basic troubleshooting steps.

Save yourself the troubles of trying to pull parts that don't need it. Look at the top of the Aux. Equipment forum. I placed a sticky thread there a while ago that has a step by step troubleshooting guide for the DC system on these sets.

 

[1800 Diesel]

Yep--that's exactly what I plan to do. Your sticky post is clear & well written. Thanks for writing it & posting. Will use it working on the next one today....

 

[1800 Diesel]

Blower removal misery continues MEP002A

I took storeman's advice and made another attempt pulling the blower wheel on our "Unit #2" today.
Even called in a retired outside machinist (which I used to do in my shipyard days many years ago) to observe/assist. When he saw the setup we had (heavy bar type puller), the amount of force applied and the hammer hits on the blower wheel and on the end of the puller, he was convinced that something is still holding the wheel in place. He inquired about the 6 studs still visible on the wheel (QTY 3 5/16" & QTY (3) 3/8") I explained that these had to stay in place and that they would "ride" with the wheel when it was pulled. We also read the TM and it clearly says to only pull the center bolt, though the illustration shows a much shorter bolt than the one that is actually installed into the center-drilled/tapped hole in the crankshaft.

To reiterate the process we used and relevant observations:

1. Center bolt washer [3/8" + thick one] removed. Center bolt screwed all the way in then backed out 2 or 3 turns.

2. Bar type puller (free "rental" from local auto parts place) setup against crankshaft bolt (greased head) & two 5/16" by 4" GR 8 bolts screwed into hub.

3. Hub area heated to 200 degrees.

4. Liberal amounts of PBB applied to keyway & hub area.

5. Puller tightened with 1/2" breaker bar in excess of 80 ft-#s.

6. CO2 applied to face of crankshaft.

7. Hammered blower wheel along rear edge at multiple positions.

8. Hammered end of puller with 2-3# machinist hammer at lease 25 times as hard as we could swing the hammer...

My machinist buddy is convinced we are "dead-heading" the wheel against something else. I know I've asked at least twice, but is everyone absolutely positive that none of the 6 hub bolts need to be loosened? I know they can't be removed, but if these nuts were backed off & removed, could the aluminum portion of the blower wheel then come off easy? Is there any benefit to removing the magnet ring (not sure abt terminology) using a right angle screw driver or is it even possible to remove prior to removing blower wheel.

Bottom line, I'm with storeman in suggesting I should try to keep the generators as original as possible and would really like to remove this one to repair/clean (or replace) the stator, but I'm way beyond the point of diminishing returns & getting close to my breaking point & equipment limits too!!


Storeman--I haven't drilled/tapped the hub for the 3/8" bolts yet, since the 5/16" GR 8s are still holding there own I'm not sure that is worth the effort & risk.

If you guys are absolutely positive the 6 other bolts stay in place & only the center bolt into the crankshaft has to be loosened to allow pressing against the puller stud & the wheel should come off after reasonably efforts to do so then I'll stand down for a second time and dress my wounds. If someone tells me how dumb my methods are, please don't be shy. I definitely need the help.

Thanks for the assist..

 

[doghead]

Why not continue your original thread?

This one makes 3.

 

[storeman]

All associated bolts and nuts you see are only attached to the fan wheel. I am positive. Perhaps the bind is against the shaft key and the fan wheel was perhaps scored against it in previous attempts. That this is why perhaps you need to go to heavier bolts. I never measured torque on the 5/16" bolts, just applied pressure until the threads pulled out, then tapped for larger puller bolts and started all over again.
Jerry

 

[1800 Diesel]

Why not continue your original thread?

This one makes 3.

Is it better to continue a thread that's a couple weeks old or to start a new one? I don't know...I'm new here. Is there a rule about not starting new threads unless the subject changes? If so, my mistake.

 

[1800 Diesel]

All associated bolts and nuts you see are only attached to the fan wheel. I am positive. Perhaps the bind is against the shaft key and the fan wheel was perhaps scored against it in previous attempts. That this is why perhaps you need to go to heavier bolts. I never measured torque on the 5/16" bolts, just applied pressure until the threads pulled out, then tapped for larger puller bolts and started all over again.
Jerry

Jerry,

Will drill & tap for 3/8" bolts tonight and attempt another pull.

Thanks for replying!

 

[gimpyrobb]

We like to keep info in one thread so someone else with this issue doesn't need to go searching for it.

 

[Grega]

Sometimes the use of an air impact wrench on medium setting on the puller works. I pulled an end bearing on the gen. head this way. Its also a good idea to walk away for awhile if troubles arise.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Anyone have a pic of the flywheel off of a genny? Might be handy to see what he is working with.

 

[1800 Diesel]

All associated bolts and nuts you see are only attached to the fan wheel. I am positive. Perhaps the bind is against the shaft key and the fan wheel was perhaps scored against it in previous attempts. That this is why perhaps you need to go to heavier bolts. I never measured torque on the 5/16" bolts, just applied pressure until the threads pulled out, then tapped for larger puller bolts and started all over again.
Jerry

OK Jerry--this time the wheel surrendered...had it up to about 180 degrees...puller (with 3/8" GR 8 bolts) maxed out...about 5 good licks with the machinist hammer on the end of the puller and she jumped off the shaft like a frog...traveled about 2 feet and thankfully landed in the hay with no damage. Crankshaft taper surfaces, bore of wheel & woodruff key all clean with no rust or burrs....now to figure out the stator status...

Thanks for hanging in there with me...next time I'm up you're way..steak dinner on me...

 

[1800 Diesel]

We like to keep info in one thread so someone else with this issue doesn't need to go searching for it.

Understood, won't do it again. That makes sense too for searching purposes...

 

[1800 Diesel]

Anyone have a pic of the flywheel off of a genny? Might be handy to see what he is working with.

Just got the monster off...details in the post to Jerry...thanks. If anyone wants pics of the wheel removed I can take some and post tomorrow...

 

[1800 Diesel]

Sometimes the use of an air impact wrench on medium setting on the puller works. I pulled an end bearing on the gen. head this way. Its also a good idea to walk away for awhile if troubles arise.

Grega--used the impact yesterday but that's when I had the 5/16" bolts...tonight I didn't want to run the air compressor late & disturb neighbors, so I used the breaker bar and hammer-on-puller method. With the larger 3/8" bolts (suggested by Jerry) I felt more comfortable pulling hard on the breaker bar and the beast finally surrendered. Thanks for the assist though!

 

[gimpyrobb]

Glad to hear it came off. A pic of the underside would probably help others in the future.

I believe testing for continuity should tell you if its good or not, but it might need a certain measure of resistance(ohms). I'll let someone more "in the know" post up about that.

 

[1800 Diesel]

Glad to hear it came off. A pic of the underside would probably help others in the future.

I believe testing for continuity should tell you if its good or not, but it might need a certain measure of resistance(ohms). I'll let someone more "in the know" post up about that.

Here's some pictures of the removed wheel & stator. All photos after cleaning up gunk off stator & off rear of wheel. Tested leads on stator as follows: lead-to-lead about 0.7 ohms. No continuity between either lead and ground. Laminated core 100% continuity to ground--hoping this is normal. No continuity between windings & ground.

 

[storeman]

Based on the 4 known good stators I have here, your tests are normal. All of mine read 0.6 Ohms. Well done! To prevent wheel flying off, I leave the thick washer on the bolt and back the bolt out 1/4" or so and the washer catches the fan wheel when it finally lets loose.
Jerry

 

[1800 Diesel]

Based on the 4 known good stators I have here, your tests are normal. All of mine read 0.6 Ohms. Well done! To prevent wheel flying off, I leave the thick washer on the bolt and back the bolt out 1/4" or so and the washer catches the fan wheel when it finally lets loose.
Jerry

So I'm hoping the gunk on the magnets & rust on the steel cores (not heavy but surface rust) was enough to reduce the 30+ VAC to 16 VAC that I measured while running earlier this week. Will reinstall this afternoon & retest output while running. Praying for good numbers...