Pulling double M105s, have questions

[trukhead]

If you don't have the 2nd 105 trailer save your money and don't buy it.
Get some plywood and 2 x 4s and build sides on the trailer you have. You can go to 13'6" before hitting bridges on the interstate.

 

[Lonesome715]

That might be a bit high...

 

[Bighurt]

You should probably check your local rental. I can rent a 24' Budget for a one way trip from ND to CA for less than $600 w/trailer. That can hold a lot more goods than a M105 and isn't a lot more than what I see retail M105's go for.

If this is a work related move, and the move isn't paid you can claim it on your taxes, see your accountant for details.

 

[Lonesome715]

I was about to put up a reasonable argument. However, claiming it on my taxes is a good idea.

 

[Bighurt]

I was about to put up a reasonable argument. However, claiming it on my taxes is a good idea.

I'm not a tax professional, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express...once.

 

[Lonesome715]

 

[wreckerman893]

Are you still on active duty? If so can you do a DITY move and offset the cost that way?

I made a few DITY moves and made money on all of them.

 

[m16ty]

As I said above, I have pulled double M105s at 60 mph. It tracked fine with no weaving but I did have about 500lbs in the front of the front trailer. The rear trailer was empty.

With two loaded trailers I don't think it would work. You have to keep in mind that any tongue weight the rear trailer has will be transferred to the rear of the front trailer. If the front trailer tongue gets too light, you will have major tracking problems.

 

[trukhead]

If you must pull 2 105s, how about bolting the rear 105 directly to the rear 105, hitch removed or under the front 105 bed. Pull it like dump pup behind a dumptruck. You will need to have the front hitch to pivot up and down and perhaps lengthen it as well as some method of weight distribution to weight the hitch, (springs weight the hitches on pups).

Or, pivot the 2 trailers laterally not directionally (a pivot on each side at the bottom of the tailgate of the front 105, and install enough space between the front and rear 105 so the tailgate of the front 105 can go to flat and allow you to walk between the 2 for loading. A couple of stand offs at the front of the rear and rear of the front 105 undernieth of the bed and a log chain from the rear of the rear trailer, across the standoffs up to the front hitch point should limit the droop and provide weight distribution. You mentioned you have the tools so

opcorn:

 

[Lonesome715]

No, I am no longer on active duty. If I was, this would be a much easier move.

I think you are correct. The lead trailer is going to be pretty heavy and the aft one will be just heavy enough. I think the addition of better tires will also play a role in stability.

I do think two simple links with flexable joints (good cheap ones from Tractor Supply) would work while in the road. But I would have to be able to disconnect them when back on the highway. I would liek to keep this simple. A lot of what you suggested, does nto sound all that simple.

 

[nk14zp]

If you don't have the 2nd 105 trailer save your money and don't buy it.
Get some plywood and 2 x 4s and build sides on the trailer you have. You can go to 13'6" before hitting bridges on the interstate.

Why not add two feet all around on the sides of your deuce and m105. That would be one of the safest ways to up its cube.

 

[BKubu]

I forget where I saw it but I read that when pulling multiple ammo trailers it was recommended to keep speeds down to around 20. Wish I was at home on my comp to look through the manual.

Think even if you try it at higher speeds your going to need to reinforce where you mount the hitch pretty good.

Previously, I posted a pic of the manual that states that the M332 trailers were not designed to be towed in tandem over 10 MPH!.

 

[Lonesome715]

I do not think it would be that simple.