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pulling M816 onto concrete slab?

timntrucks

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might be a dumb question but, can i pull my wrecker onto my concrete slab in front of my shed. its 3000 lbs mix at 4 inches of concrete. maybe i could only pull the front onto and leave the rear on the gravel. going to fix the brakes and change the tires out Tim
 

nickd

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Tim, I am not a structural engineer however, the strength of the concrete slab is directly proportional to its underlying support material. that being said, if the slab is sitting on soft ground and a point load is applied, it will crack. 2-4" of gravel ontop of compacted select mix soil along with rebar in the concrete is the optimum prep for a 6" slab to with stand most loads. The rebar in the concrete will strengthen and hold the slab together should it crack. If your slab were to crack and not have rebar in it, the cracks over time will allow the slab to separate. I would not put the truck on the slab. I would work in the dirt/grass and use a plank under the jack and jack stands along with a tarp or dropcloth on the ground directly under your work area.
 

acetomatoco

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Reminds me of the time we tore down the sugar house and wanted to remove the slab...drove the sherman back and forth a few times to no avail... finally had to use a pavement breaker on a backhoe...very durable...
 

clinto

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I would work in the dirt/grass and use a plank under the jack and jack stands along with a tarp or dropcloth on the ground directly under your work area.
:ditto:
 

houdel

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Got to agree with Nickd. The best combination is 6" of concrete with rebar and fiber over 6" of crushed stone (not gravel or sand, either of those will absorb moisture and heave during freezing weather). Also for you next job, place heavy plastic sheeting over the crushed stone before you pour the concrete. Concrete needs to absorb an AWFUL amount of water to reach full strength. Concrete needs to be kept wet for at least 28 days to reach full strength. My last pour was 6" concrete over 6" of crushed stone with a 6 mil layer of plastic between the stone and concrete. It took a long time for the pour to set up before I could trowel it out flat. After that, I soaked it with water for two days and then applied two coats of sealer over the concrete to keep the water in. When finally done, the concrete was dark black in color, not gray like most concrete looks. That slab in an unheated garage has not cracked at all in the 22 years since I poured it.

As you are stuck with an existing 4" slab, the weight of your front end, 6000 lbs plus spread over 2 tires, greatly exceeds you rear end loading, 15-20 K spread over 4 tires. I would not worry about the rear end loading, but I might consider some 2"x10" or 2"x12" planks under the front end to spread the load out over as great an area as possible.
 

houdel

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Got to agree with Nickd. The best combination is 6" of concrete with rebar and fiber over 6" of crushed stone (not gravel or sand, either of those will absorb moisture and heave during freezing weather). Also for you next job, place heavy plastic sheeting over the crushed stone before you pour the concrete. Concrete needs to absorb an AWFUL amount of water to reach full strength. Concrete needs to be kept wet for at least 28 days to reach full strength. My last pour was 6" concrete over 6" of crushed stone with a 6 mil layer of plastic between the stone and concrete. It took a long time for the pour to set up before I could trowel it out flat. After that, I soaked it with water for two days and then applied two coats of sealer over the concrete to keep the water in. When finally done, the concrete was dark black in color, not gray like most concrete looks. That slab in an unheated garage has not cracked at all in the 22 years since I poured it.

As you are stuck with an existing 4" slab, the weight of your front end, 6-8k lbs spread over 2 tires, greatly exceeds you rear end loading, 15-20 K spread over 4 tires. I would not worry about the rear end loading, but I might consider some 2"x10" or 2"x12" planks under the front end to spread the load out over as great an area as possible.
 

OSO

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Sounds like houdel knows concrete!With all that preparation for the concrete pour sounds like it's the right way to go!!!!
 

houdel

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The sub base below the concrete is as important as the concrete itself. If you pour concrete over sand, dirt or clay, that sub base will move around as the ground water moves, especially in climates with freezing weather. As the sub base moves, it creates voids and pressure points that either inadequately support or put pressure on the concrete slab itself. A solid sub base of crushed stone is very stable, self draining and is not affected by ground water or freezing temperatures. It is also important, as I said, to either keep the concrete wet, or soak the concrete and apply a waterproof coating over the concrete so it cures properly. Concrete hardens by absorbing water into the cement portion of the concrete mix. It is not considered fully cured for 28 days, although with enough entrained water it will continue to harden slightly after the 28 days.

If you have ever watched a concrete roadway being built, they always put down a layer of crushed stone at least as deep as the anticipated concrete pour, for the reasons stated above. Now concrete roadways do crack, but mostly due to harmonic vibrations from heavy truck traffic and water getting into the expansion joints and heaving the concrete when the water freezes. Usually neither of these are a problem for a residential garage or driveway.

When I was a plant engineer at GM, our minimum spec was an 8" reinforced slab over 8" of crushed stone for general use. In locations where we would be installing heavy equipment producing a lot of vibration, we would go with a thicker slab. I do recall one piece of equipment, a vehicle shaker, in which you would suspend a complete vehicle suspended by plates attached to the wheel hubs in place of tires. These plates were attached to high speed hydraulic actuators. The hydraulic systems were controlled by computer systems using data from real world data from driving over a variety of actual road surfaces ranging from smooth paved roads to severely rutted gravel roads. The computer system drove the hydraulic system to simulate driving the vehicle over the programmed road surfaces. A single vehicle would be loaded into the shaker and "driven" constantly, 24/7 for MONTHS at a time, to see where suspension and body failure would occur. The slab beneath the shaker was 8 FEET thick!
 
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