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Putting a cigarette lighter in a CUCV

Swede

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One my question was put up there, because If you split alternators you can use the sec. set of alt. + added battery to run the cig. lighter

In Elec. terms 14 Awg is good for 15amps
12 Awg is good for 20 amps
10 Awg is good for 30 amps That is in most wire types..............

Sorry I'm a sparky, just figured I would add it.
 

ultim8gamr

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AJMBLAZER said:
Wouldn't a fuse in the fuse box take care of the cig lighter? Why put an inline fuse after the fuse block?
I have the inline run right now with a fuse near the battery. So far all that is hooked up and tested is the CB without any issues:jumpin: its all pretty straight forward. i dont have a lighter and am waiting for the resistor for my voltmeter to put my dash and stereo in. if the straight from batt line did fry the cig lighter i would then take it off that line and tie it into the fuseblock. and so i would not use an inline fuse for that line.
John
 

1956_4x4

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AJMBLAZER said:
1956_4x4 said:
My feed is from below the horn fuse in your schematic. It is non-switched and I installed a 10 amp fuse inline to the outlet by the ashtray. I don't use it for a lighter, but do use it for accessories.

Smitty
So just so I have this correct you're saying there's a fuse space below the horn fuse not shown in the diagram that receives power already?

Oh yeah...what size fuse would I use in there?


12 gauge eh? Think I have some of that around here. Maybe even 10.
No. There is a place to insert a male spade terminal below the horn fuse in your schematic. I plugged the wire in there and installed an inline fuse in the wire.

Smitty
 

AJMBLAZER

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1956_4x4 said:
No. There is a place to insert a male spade terminal below the horn fuse in your schematic. I plugged the wire in there and installed an inline fuse in the wire.

Smitty
Okay, forgive me if I'm being thick here but like I said, I'm not good with 'lektrikul type stuff.

So if there's a space for a fuse there in the fuse box...and you're putting the terminal there...or wait...

I think I'm getting confused by people telling me to just use female connectors as fuse taps.

Is there a female connector there and you're just putting the male connector on that or is there a space for a fuse there and you're putting a fuse in there too?

Like I said, bad at electrical stuff.
 

1956_4x4

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AJMBLAZER said:
1956_4x4 said:
No. There is a place to insert a male spade terminal below the horn fuse in your schematic. I plugged the wire in there and installed an inline fuse in the wire.

Smitty
Okay, forgive me if I'm being thick here but like I said, I'm not good with 'lektrikul type stuff.

So if there's a space for a fuse there in the fuse box...and you're putting the terminal there...or wait...

I think I'm getting confused by people telling me to just use female connectors as fuse taps.

Is there a female connector there and you're just putting the male connector on that or is there a space for a fuse there and you're putting a fuse in there too?

Like I said, bad at electrical stuff.
Go out, look at your fuse box and you will see the empty space. It is NOT a space for a fuse!

Smitty
 

1956_4x4

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AJMBLAZER said:
Ah, gotcha.

Can't get to my truck right now. Tomorrow at the earliest.
One more thing that I just thought about. You will need to ensure that this power point is 12 volt on your truck. Mine is 12 volt, but then the whole thing is now 12 volt.

According to your schematic you have a few 12volt access points (marked as "12V+")

Smitty
 

AJMBLAZER

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So the ones that say ignition + would be switched and the others that just say 12v would be constant, correct?



I have horror stories of zapping myself and frying things...I'm definitely not a sparky.
 

OPCOM

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just attach a #10 to the 12V point on the battery and put a 30A fuse inline close to the battery, and run the lighter.. No need for switches or anything unless you want them.
 

gasser

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OPCOM said:
just attach a #10 to the 12V point on the battery and put a 30A fuse inline close to the battery, and run the lighter.. No need for switches or anything unless you want them.
And you want him to blow out any gear plugged into the cig. lighter?!!?

I can't think of one single item that would plug into the cig. lighter that would require/need more than 5-10A. If you need 30A, then go directly to a separate 12v junction block ... but not to the cig. lighter. You will either blow out your device or be replacing every few minutes the inline fuses that your device "may" have.

Again, if you have specific gear that requires 30A, do something special for it ... but most aux/common items that plug into a cig. lighter requires 5A.

Just my 2cents

-graham
 

ultim8gamr

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i used a 15 amp fuse inline right next to the battery. it anyone wants pics of the whole setup that i did let me know and i can put them up here.
John
 

OPCOM

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gasser said:
OPCOM said:
just attach a #10 to the 12V point on the battery and put a 30A fuse inline close to the battery, and run the lighter.. No need for switches or anything unless you want them.
And you want him to blow out any gear plugged into the cig. lighter?!!?

I can't think of one single item that would plug into the cig. lighter that would require/need more than 5-10A. If you need 30A, then go directly to a separate 12v junction block ... but not to the cig. lighter. You will either blow out your device or be replacing every few minutes the inline fuses that your device "may" have.

Again, if you have specific gear that requires 30A, do something special for it ... but most aux/common items that plug into a cig. lighter requires 5A.

Just my 2cents

-graham
An outlet is an outlet. Vehicle power system fuses are not to protect a user's plug-in equipment. They are to protect the wire to the connector and the connector itself from being burned up in case someone plugs some piece of junk in. The plug-in equipment should always have its own fuse for its own protection. To do otherwise is very foolish. The 30A socket in my truck can power a 100 watt HF tranceiver and a 60W VHF tranceiver at the same time. That is about 25 amps. Each radio has its own fuse inline with its + lead and the + leads go to a heavy duty lighter plug. The 120VAC outlet in the house has a 15A breaker. The TV set plugged into it does not rely on that. Instead it has its own 5A fuse inside. It is exactly the same concept.
 

1956_4x4

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gasser said:
OPCOM said:
just attach a #10 to the 12V point on the battery and put a 30A fuse inline close to the battery, and run the lighter.. No need for switches or anything unless you want them.
And you want him to blow out any gear plugged into the cig. lighter?!!?

I can't think of one single item that would plug into the cig. lighter that would require/need more than 5-10A. If you need 30A, then go directly to a separate 12v junction block ... but not to the cig. lighter. You will either blow out your device or be replacing every few minutes the inline fuses that your device "may" have.

Again, if you have specific gear that requires 30A, do something special for it ... but most aux/common items that plug into a cig. lighter requires 5A.

Just my 2cents

-graham
Made me wonder what the lighter in my Ford is rated at. Checked it and it calls for a 15 amp fuse...

Smitty
 

gasser

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OPCOM said:
An outlet is an outlet. Vehicle power system fuses are not to protect a user's plug-in equipment. They are to protect the wire to the connector and the connector itself from being burned up in case someone plugs some piece of junk in. The plug-in equipment should always have its own fuse for its own protection. To do otherwise is very foolish. The 30A socket in my truck can power a 100 watt HF tranceiver and a 60W VHF tranceiver at the same time. That is about 25 amps. Each radio has its own fuse inline with its + lead and the + leads go to a heavy duty lighter plug. The 120VAC outlet in the house has a 15A breaker. The TV set plugged into it does not rely on that. Instead it has its own 5A fuse inside. It is exactly the same concept.
I was simply pointing out that not all items that plug into a cigarette lighter have inline fuses. There are several devices that rely on the fused uplink.

I agree that it's a foolish design to rely on fuse for the cig. lighter, but that being said, why risk it? I still think that a 30A circuit should be separated from the cig lighter.

-graham
 

HardCorps79

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REVIVING AN OLD POST:

So, let me get this straight, to install one of those little $4-5 cigarette lighter kits in the CUCV,
1. Get a length of 10ga wire.
2. Crimp a female space to attach to the male spade on the lighter element.
3. Run the line to the fuse box.
4. Cut to length and crimp a male spade on the end.
5. Insert male end into 12v open slot below horn relay.
6. Somewhere in there put an inline fuse of 5 to 15 amps

Correct or no?

I want to do the cig lighter, as well as a two-port (mount under dash) to charge my GPS and phone. Are there enough openings on the fuse block to do this?

(And then later, when I install a stereo, I'll ask even MORE questions!)
 

pbrstreetgang

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I am going to go on to the next step with this....

Can I do everything, as just mentioned in Hardcorps79's question/post and also wire in an addtional (3-port) cigarette plug adapter that will carry over underneath the dash, through the firewall, down the wire conduit, underneath the truck and out at the old radio mount in the back seat for my kids DVD player >>>> ***ON THE SAME FUSE BOX LOCATION***>>>?

So in effect, I would have 2 (3 port) cigarette adapters on the same wire, all routing back to the same fuse box location.

Nothing more than a DVD Player, a cell phone, a GPS and and IPOD will ever be hooked up to these. Usual car stuff.
 

Lawrence of Arabia

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Buy a fuse with a tab off the top of it so you can get 12volts from the fuse box. Very simple process. I did this to mine and it works great. I plug my GPS into it.
 

beanman1

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i put a cigg lighter in my cucv i went to autozone and bought a gm style lighter plug and just wired it to an open 12v circut from my fuse box u can see the lighter in side the ashtry
 

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