Pyro advice

[army_nurse]

I want to add a pyrometer to my truck. I would like some advise on what unit to buy. Thanks in advance for the assistance.

 

[fignasiak]

I think if you search you will find a few options. I purchased a digital display unit from Auber Instruments (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5_26). I have not installed it yet but looks fairly simple, and you can get one that runs on 24V with a choice of colors also. Not sure what length of probe length is necessary, but it will depend on mounting location. Usually on the probes it is not simple to extend wire length, if possible, so keep that in mind before ordering.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I used the Hewitt Industries units. A "K" coupling that requires no power for the EGT gauge, and a 0-15 vacuum gauge. They will also put in 24 VDC LED gauge lighting at no charge.

http://hewittindustries.com/

 

[Welder1]

I also used a Hewitt gage 010-213-1R-1-24 0-1600*F and a 015-001-B1 thermocouple connected with a 035-013-07 cable 7' This is a 2" gage fairly small but fits nicely in a standard 2" mounting cup.


Eddie Cannon

 

[HanksDeuce]

Love my ISSPro combination boost/EGT gauge. See the post below for pics/install on someone else's rig:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?32326-ISSPRO-Turbocator-Pyro-Boost-Gauge

 

[teletech]

I have nothing but good things to say about my ISSPro combo gauge and my experience with the company.
I bought a vehicle with it installed perhaps 20 years ago and was thinking the EGTs were low so perhaps decades of heat had affected the thermocouple. I called the company and the fellow was extremely well informed and rather than sell me something he convinced me I just needed to clean the contacts on the meter!
I did and it's been great for the last 5 years.

Love my ISSPro combination boost/EGT gauge. See the post below for pics/install on someone else's rig:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?32326-ISSPRO-Turbocator-Pyro-Boost-Gauge

 

[rustystud]

I used the Hewitt Industries units. A "K" coupling that requires no power for the EGT gauge, and a 0-15 vacuum gauge. They will also put in 24 VDC LED gauge lighting at no charge.

http://hewittindustries.com/

That's what I went with. Top notch quality !

 

[Jericho]

I used the Auber as well, its a two pole Alumel/ chromel thermocouple, comes with a threaded collet and mounted in five min just aft of the turbo exhaust discharge in the exhaust pipe, EASY INSTALL!? get the long lead option. its programmable and can do EGT, OAT water temp and volts depending on the lead option, have had it installed for about three years with no failure, only problem is the display doesn't like 40 below zero, I don't turn in on until it is above zero in the cab. Square shape fits easily into a panel below the dash

 

[m16ty]

Any of the name brand pyros will be ok. I went with AutoMeter just because I liked the way the gauge looked.

Just a tip on drilling and taping the manifold, do it with the engine running. I've done several this way and it will blow the chips out really good.

 

[HanksDeuce]

I drilled for the EGT probe with the turbo off the manifold. I was swapping from a D turbo to a C type (whistler) turbo anyway.

 

[donnerwetter58]

Any of the name brand pyros will be ok. I went with AutoMeter just because I liked the way the gauge looked.

Just a tip on drilling and taping the manifold, do it with the engine running. I've done several this way and it will blow the chips out really good.

No need to work with running engines and hot parts. Magnetize the drill and the chips are attracted to the drill for easy removal.

 

[cranetruck]

I' have had the Hewitt for now going on 8 years and it has performed perfectly.
Installed the dual set...

 

[Styk33]

No need to work with running engines and hot parts. Magnetize the drill and the chips are attracted to the drill for easy removal.

If you start up the truck and then start drilling and tapping, nothing is hot. When you finish, things will be warm, but this time of year, it feels good. Magnetizing the drill bit will still cause chips to end up in the exhausting impeller and do small damage.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I just put a little grease on the end of the bit, started up the motor and all the pieces stuck to the grease, or were blown out of the hole.

 

[Eliteweapons]

Has anyone installed a pyro on the cat 3116? Is the back section of the manifold the best place on that engine as well for the thermocouple?

Thanks

 

[DavidWymore]

I like my glowshift 7 color set to red with black face, looks almost stock.

 

[Pugsley]

I am using a Glowshift 3 in one. I have the extra PSI gauge hooked up to my secondary fuel filter.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/3in1-EGT-Boost-and-Pressure.aspx

 

[74M35A2]

Drilling cast iron only makes powder not shavings. No problem to allow this to blow through turbo on start up. It will pass through before the turbine wheel starts spinning anyway. People make a way bigger deal out of this than necessary.

On thermocouples, the smaller diameter you use, the faster the response time will be, but the less durable they are.

 

[Styk33]

It makes shavings, not just powder (most folks that have drilled their manifolds witnessed this themselves). Yes, it is very big deal, as the exhaust turbine is what is on the other end of the exhaust manifold. That little turbine is spinning several times your engine speed, even when cold and low RPM. It doesn't take much to chip the edge of one of the blades and then have an unbalanced turbine, which in the long run will create problems.

 

[rustystud]

It makes shavings, not just powder (most folks that have drilled their manifolds witnessed this themselves). Yes, it is very big deal, as the exhaust turbine is what is on the other end of the exhaust manifold. That little turbine is spinning several times your engine speed, even when cold and low RPM. It doesn't take much to chip the edge of one of the blades and then have an unbalanced turbine, which in the long run will create problems.

Yes and no. It depends on the drill bit your using. If it has an aggressive angle it will cut chips or strips. If it is a shallower angle bit it will make powder. When drilling out bronze you usually use a 20 degree or less bit angle for the same reasons. You want smaller size shavings. If you try and cut too much it will usually jam the bit and tear the metal. When I drilled out my manifold I used a drill bit made for bronze drilling. Made a nice little powder. Now if you do have shavings come out then you must be careful not to let them hit the turbine wheel. Even at start-up that turbine is spinning fast ! Even though they are almost all made out of "Titanium alloy" nowadays, they still do not take kindly to metal bits hitting them.