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Quad Cab

Bill in pa

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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homer city pa
I have been going to make it longer since I put the fuel tank up and it didn't fit.
Then the tires would be hanging out in front of the bed.
I have the frame extensions drilled to mount.
When done will be 16 1/2" bolts on each side.
Most important to me is the mounting will be on all original frame NOT on the extensions.
Even if you stretch 30" youll still need to either cut 30" off the bed.... that's easy.
Or a different bed....
Yes I'm keeping the duels
As far as the fuel lines any idea where to buy and what to get?
With 3 line im thinking
Fuel feed, Vent, and return.
Thus a self priming system?
 

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
homer city pa
Been away for work the last week.
Got some of the frame lengthening done yesterday.
LOTS of holes to drill.
Its Monday morning, Going to go out and get
more done {hopefully}.
All frame material in 5/16 thick, Man it's heavy.cross member.jpgcross member 2.jpgcross member 3.jpg
 

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
134
40
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Location
homer city pa
Well the frame is done. Time to wipe down and paint the frame.
Extend the wiring harness
Extend the air lines.
Extend the fuel lines.
And drive shaft.
? for all.....
Would you go with a one piece drive shaft.. OR
a two piece with a carrier bearing.
I have no intension of beating on the truck.framedone.jpgframedone2.jpgframedone3.jpgframedone4.jpgframedone5.jpgframedone6.jpg
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Well the frame is done. Time to wipe down and paint the frame.
Extend the wiring harness
Extend the air lines.
Extend the fuel lines.
And drive shaft.
? for all.....
Would you go with a one piece drive shaft.. OR
a two piece with a carrier bearing.
I have no intension of beating on the truck.View attachment 760616View attachment 760617View attachment 760618View attachment 760619View attachment 760620View attachment 760621

Well the question is how long will the driveline be ? If it's over 80" then go with a two piece driveline with carrier bearing.
Actually 80" is pushing it, but I believe that is the max allowed.
 

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
134
40
18
Location
homer city pa
Well
The fuel lines are done and truck is running.
Electric pigtail has been extended and the lights work.
Air lines have been extended back to the glad hand.
Yes {hand} I lost one in the garage and cant' find it.
So if anyone knows where I sat it.
Brake line is extended and bled.
Tomorrow I'll take drive shaft for a good stretching
Needs to be 98" total length now for paint.jpgnow for paint 2.jpg
 

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
134
40
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Location
homer city pa
Due to the length I'd say it needs to be a 2 piece with a carrier bearing.
Total length transmission flange to rear axle flange is 98 1/2".
Hopefully will reuse the original drive shaft.
Add a cross member for a carrier bearing.
Then a 48" new shaft.drive shaft.jpg
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,298
3,074
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Due to the length I'd say it needs to be a 2 piece with a carrier bearing.
Total length transmission flange to rear axle flange is 98 1/2".
Hopefully will reuse the original drive shaft.
Add a cross member for a carrier bearing.
Then a 48" new shaft.View attachment 761186
I'd put the longer shaft to the rear axle. That would give you better driveline angles and more articulation without binding problems.
 

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
134
40
18
Location
homer city pa
Well it runs and drives.
Took it out for a test run.
Had to make a 2 point turn to get in and out of the drive way.
Tomorrow i'll blow it off and finish the base green.
got the new drive shaft today and installed it.
Had to make a cross member for the carrier bearing
1/4 x6 tube cut to fit and get the proper drop for the drive angle..done2.jpgdone3.jpgdone4.jpgdone.jpg
 

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
134
40
18
Location
homer city pa
quad cab

Was a productive day today.
Got 3 coats of GCI 34094 green on.
Bed put on still need the bolts, tomorrow.
Got the mud flaps on..
Now for the trailer plug, and camo the truck.Paint.jpgpaint2.jpgpaint3.jpgpaint4.jpgpaint5.jpg
 

Attachments

Last edited:

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
Re driveshaft....You did something I didn't know is possible....combining the old yoke that has the plate on the outside with a newer style yoke. Do you have a spline at the front of the forward driveshaft? Is the forward one straight or is there an angle?

I'm building my driveshaft, have 84" total length so had to do the carrier bearing. I need 1 more OEM type weld flange for the old style u-joint (1500 series) and I'll have everything.

I sure wish I could match your speed of getting it done. Have a great day.
 

Bill in pa

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
134
40
18
Location
homer city pa
There is no spline on the front drive shaft from the trans to the carrier. My old drive shaft they cut the flat yoke end off and welded to a new tube with the carrier.
There is NO spline on that. There is no front to back play between those two.
My old drive shaft with the spline was cut to go from the carrier to the rear axle. That has a spline as there is movement between the axle and carrier, due to the suspension travel.
It was expensive, $607 was done in 2 hours. A 19 year old kid built it.
Truly amazing to watch him work.
As for speed.... I have from January 26th to now. Just shy of 3 months.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
"cut the flat yoke end off and welded to a new tube with the carrier". I see. I wondered how you (he) did that as the weld on yokes seem to be no longer made.

I'm doing about the same but using a new spline that has the bearing landing, where you have a (new style) yoke. Here is the part.

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c831_splines...center_bearing_style_using_a_slip_yoke.html (Part#: 3-53-1551)

Then the driveshaft going from the slider to the axle flange has weld on ends at each end. I've found one used weld on end but need to find a second of the style that uses the plated u-joint.

I'll save a little money but the time issue comes up.
 
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