The manual does say max of 52 amps for 120/208 operation.
So that gives you 2 legs of 52 amps 120V each, or a total of about 12,500 watts. You don't want to go over that as the generator head was not designed for an unbalanced load and you can cause major damage to it.
You'd want to use 50 amp breakers, so essentially you can run it as a 12KW max output of 120V power (only 10 KW of 208v)
Might get a few more watts of output if you increase the voltage, but I wouldn't go above 130V at most, and only that with dumb loads (only basic electronics/no electronics)
If you know exactly what you are doing and familiar with electricity, you can get away with a little more due to the .8pf the military builds into these things, but if you understand what I just said without having to look it up I strongly recommend against it.
Sorry, I just woke up from only 4 hours sleep and with a 192 blood sugar level. I guess 3 slices Pizza at 3-4 am from the local convenience store for a diabetic wasn't a good idea. I'll get my levels down a bit if I have to go chop wood , jog or something and get my my brain working right shortly. Coffee for now.
Resistive loads are at 1.0 PF, (perfect loads for testing output), capacitive loads and inductive loads are what the 0.8 PF ratings are for.
It came to me with a blown FU2 fuse that comes off G1,F1 going to A1,1. I figured it was from an overload.
I'm trying to figure a way so the guy can use it and have the generator protect itself in the future as the owner doesn't have a clue as to what he has. I'm looking a "cheap" safe way to do it. He's thinking of a fused 3Ph disconnect knife switch with 50A fuses in it. I'm thinking 3Ph panel, 50A main with single 20A breakers (120V 1Ph )and double 20A-30A (208V 1Ph) breakers out plugs for his loads. That way he could use it and if he overloads with an unbalnced load it would open breakers. He'd still need to try and balance his loads for it to "work right."
What he really needs is a 120/240 1Ph generator, but this is what he has to work with. It's a 10 lead stator, not a 12 lead, so that's not an option.
I was wondering also if it's possible to open the stator and find the leads where the connections are made internally and reconnect it as a 12 lead? I wonder if anyone has ever tried this? I ran into an old Electrical engineer a few years back that said he'd done that with I think an old Onan RDJC generator.
I'm open for suggestions.
EDIT: this failed to post when I wrote this yesterday, so I just went ahead and posted it.