Question about the M1083

[OldArmyVet91A31C]

Just had our lights go out on the M1083 the other night coming back from a fire call. The brake lights stay on, but the marker and headlights are off. We pulled the plug to the J105 off the breaker junction box, and the marker and brake lights stay on, no head lights, and when you press control to turn headlights on the come on then go off after a split second.
Question: Are we looking at a shorting issue or a relay and/or coil issue on junction module 1 box?

Plus, is there a software program to use to connect to the 1083 that is relatively inexpensive that can be used to diagnosis stuff?

Thanks In Advance for any help to resolve issue of lights!

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Need to know the year of the truck.

 

[OldArmyVet91A31C]

Need to know the year of the truck.

 

[Ronmar]

The pushbutton light switches are known to be a little problematic. The switch assembly should also have a good ground connection…

 

[OldArmyVet91A31C]

The pushbutton light switches are known to be a little problematic. The switch assembly should also have a good ground connection…

I have read on here and other places of the problematic dangers of the push button switch system, starting to look for three switch system to install.

 

[Third From Texas]

I have read on here and other places of the problematic dangers of the push button switch system, starting to look for three switch system to install.

You can find them all over the web for around $70 NOS

Honestly, with a good relay you can drop in just about any headlight switch (assuming that you don't use the blackout IR lights to hunt for fires in the dark). The military switches are tough, but not without their issues and not really ideal for non-military duty. They are more "do this OR do that OR do that" than "turn on this AND this AND this". I'd toss in a an old-school automotive pull knob switch for the running lights and park lights and be done with it.

*Unless you haven't installed switches for all the emergency and scene lighting...in which case I'd build a glorious switch panel.

 

[OldArmyVet91A31C]

You can find them all over the web for around $70 NOS

Honestly, with a good relay you can drop in just about any headlight switch (assuming that you don't use the blackout IR lights to hunt for fires in the dark). The military switches are tough, but not without their issues and not really ideal for non-military duty. They are more "do this OR do that OR do that" than "turn on this AND this AND this". I'd toss in a an old-school automotive pull knob switch for the running lights and park lights and be done with it.

*Unless you haven't installed switches for all the emergency and scene lighting...in which case I'd build a glorious switch panel.

Thinking that will be the next challenge once we determine what the headlight situation is.