question of tires and rims

[nstorke]

Hello all, so I am new to the site and have searched but haven't really found the answer i am looking for. So i purchased myself a 1971 deuce and am in the process of bobbing it. I am almost done with this process and want to get started on what I'm doing with the wheels before i flip the hubs or not. So my question is can i use 48 inch tall by 14 wide good year tires on stock rims, maybe having them widened? If this is possible can some let me know and maybe a place that can do it in rochester ny. Also is it possible to get the super single rims for less than 545 each? I wouldn't mind some beat up one but id prefer to not spend more on rims than I did on the truck. Thank you in advance.

 

[Reaper651]

Well, I hate to tell you but, rims and tires are probably the biggest cost on a deuce. I have been going through the same issue for the past month, trying to decide what the heck I want to do for rims and tires on my truck. IMHO I don't like the idea of flipped hubs. Now I'm not saying flipped hubs don't work, because they do and ALOT of people have flipped them and they work just fine. I'm just not a fan of flipping them. I'm not sure about running the 14.00x20" tires on stock rims. I believe it has been done but I don't know enough about it to be able to give you a definite answer. As for new aftermarket rims, expect $400 to $500 each. I know, I about died when I saw that price too. The nice thing is, you only have to buy them once. You might want to check the classifieds here on SS. There are some great deals on rims for the Deuce. The M35A3 rims would be a great choice for the 14.00x20" tires. They are tubeless rims which is great, and they will bolt onto your deuce without modification and are offset so you don't have to flip the hubs. MRAP rims are a great choice too but you must purchase adapter plates to bolt them to your Deuce. The nice thing is, there are some great quality adapter plates being made for these rims, and I believe the MRAP rims are a bit more common than the M35A3 rims. Another choice would be to have rims built or find rims that will fit the Deuce and take the very common 22.5" truck tires. The only drawback is the 22.5" tires are a bit more expensive than surplus super single tires. As long as the surplus supply of super single tires stays the way it is, I would say run them, But if for some reason the surplus tires go away, the 22.5" tires will end up being cheaper. There are some great threads and info here on SS, search super single tires and you should find just about everything you need.(There I said it) I hope this helps with your decision. Hehe, I am still unsure which route I'm going to take.

 

[VPed]

Think carefully about the way you want to go and do it once. I started out by buying 395s for the stock wheels. I then didn't like how close the tires are to the louvers in the front wheel wells so I had four stock wheels made into two widened wheels. Buying larger tubes and flaps was a good chunk of change. Since I off-road quite a bit, I am constantly airing down and filling back up. Apparently, this can allow a single grain of sand to migrate through the valve stem slot in the wheels, down past the flap, and then rub a hole in the tube. I repaired several flats where it was a pinhole located on the side of the tube, inline with the valve stem. Most recently, I got MRAP tires and wheels plus adapters and I think I am good to go. So I have some stock NDTs, and 395s on stock wheels stacked all over the place, just taking up space.

A3 wheels and tires are nice but hard to find (=$$$). MRAP tires and wheels are abundant. Peashooters adapters are a work of art. That setup does take a boatload of one-inch bolts with locknuts so a 3/4 or 1 inch impact wrench is suggested.

2 cents

 

[welldigger]

Why the hatred of flipping the rear hubs. I can flip one start to finish in 30 min. It also gives more clearance for the tires if you are using an m105 bed.

 

[Reaper651]

My only issue with flipping the hubs is that once flipped, the stress point is moved to the end of the axle, instead of being between the two wheel bearings. It must not be a problem though as so many have been running flipped hubs with great success. That and I will probably never have my Deuce loaded to its full capacity. I just figure, If I'm going to have rims built, I'm going to offset them so I don't have to flip the hubs.

 

[welldigger]

Flipping the hubs is the correct way to run super singles. A3's came with their hubs flipped.

 

[Reaper651]

Flipping the hubs is the correct way to run super singles. A3's came with their hubs flipped.

Really?? A3's Have flipped hubs? I didn't know that. I thought that the A3 rims were set so you didn't have to flip the hubs. Well, I guess I will order my custom rims offset for flipped hubs then. Do the MRAP rims with adapter plates require the hubs to be flipped? Thanks for the Info Welldigger.

 

[welldigger]

Yes. You should flip the hubs with mrap wheels. A3 wheels are only chamfered on one side.

 

[skinnyR1]

Really?? A3's Have flipped hubs? I didn't know that. I thought that the A3 rims were set so you didn't have to flip the hubs. Well, I guess I will order my custom rims offset for flipped hubs then. Do the MRAP rims with adapter plates require the hubs to be flipped? Thanks for the Info Welldigger.

Welldigger is correct. My solution was to champher all the a3 wheels on both sides so I can mount them where ever.

 

[Reaper651]

Interesting. Now, does the narrowing of the rear wheel base have any noticeable effect on stability? I Have been wondering about this while trying to decide on the rim offset. I would prefer the outer edge of the singled tire be within 3 inches of the outer edge of the outer tire of a dual rear wheel configuration. I'm not too worried about the rear tires tracking exactly with the fronts, I would rather have the wider footprint in the rear of the truck. Is this possible and/or necessary? Also, I apologize to the OP, I didn't mean to highjack your thread. I hope this info is helpful.

 

[welldigger]

Narrowing? Please clarify. Cause the track width of my truck is as wide or wider than duals.

 

[Reaper651]

Narrowing? Please clarify. Cause the track width of my truck is as wide or wider than duals.View attachment 498665View attachment 498666View attachment 498667

Hey GREAT PICS!! Especially the one with the NDCC and the Big single tire. I was wondering, what size are those tires? 14.00x20"?? Are the rims A3 rims? So, there would be no reason for an odd offset dimension for custom rims with 12 or 13R-22.5" Tires either. I can just flip the hubs and match the offset of the custom rims to the super single military rims. Even with the slightly smaller width of the 12R-22.5" tires, the wheelbase would be close to the same width. Thanks again Welldigger for the pics and info. (I'm now crossing out a bunch of my notes and writing new ones)

 

[welldigger]

They are 395/85/20 Michelin xzl's. Yes they are a3 wheels that I lucked into for an excellent price. Otherwise I would have used mrap wheels.

 

[peashooter]

Interesting. Now, does the narrowing of the rear wheel base have any noticeable effect on stability? I Have been wondering about this while trying to decide on the rim offset. I would prefer the outer edge of the singled tire be within 3 inches of the outer edge of the outer tire of a dual rear wheel configuration. I'm not too worried about the rear tires tracking exactly with the fronts, I would rather have the wider footprint in the rear of the truck. Is this possible and/or necessary? Also, I apologize to the OP, I didn't mean to highjack your thread. I hope this info is helpful.

I went from the stock duals to 395's on MRAPs on my 109. With the hubs now flipped the tires are slightly inboard more than the outer dual that was previously there but it is certainly less than 3"... I'd guess 1.5-2". Also since the 395s are running lower tire pressure (about 30-35psi) VS the higher pressure of the dual bias tires previously there is less stability since the 395s are acting like some shock absorbers now. Since my truck is converted to a camper I can tell when walking inside it that it has some very minimal bounce now with the 395 radials, there was no noticeable movement with the NDT duallies previously. The ride is much smoother now as well.
As for your bearing question previously... with the hubs unflipped the hub's wheel mounting flange is located right on top of the larger inboard side bearing (not between the 2), when you flip the hubs now the wheel mounting flange is located right on top of the slightly smaller outboard side bearing.

 

[Reaper651]

I went from the stock duals to 395's on MRAPs on my 109. With the hubs now flipped the tires are slightly inboard more than the outer dual that was previously there but it is certainly less than 3"... I'd guess 1.5-2". Also since the 395s are running lower tire pressure (about 30-35psi) VS the higher pressure of the dual bias tires previously there is less stability since the 395s are acting like some shock absorbers now. Since my truck is converted to a camper I can tell when walking inside it that it has some very minimal bounce now with the 395 radials, there was no noticeable movement with the NDT duallies previously. The ride is much smoother now as well.
As for your bearing question previously... with the hubs unflipped the hub's wheel mounting flange is located right on top of the larger inboard side bearing (not between the 2), when you flip the hubs now the wheel mounting flange is located right on top of the slightly smaller outboard side bearing.

Thanks for the info. For the stability question, I was wondering more about if the single tire configuration would cause the truck to roll over easier on an extreme side angle. I'm planning on having Stockton Wheel make me a complete set of rims to run 12R-22.5" an 13R-22.5" Hercules Chip and Cut tires. Mainly the RoadForce RF/GF 816 13R-22.5" Tire. These tires are around $400 each and should give a good combination of long life and off road traction, not to mention good availability of the various 22.5" tires being built today. I will be running these in a single configuration. Since I'm going to have the rims built, I want to be exactly sure on how they should be before I order them. About the flipped vs unflipped hubs, would it be better to have the rim offset set up so I don't have to flip the hubs or set it up so I do have to flip the hubs? After reading Welldigger's posts, I am thinking to set my new rims up for flipped hubs. Either way, I want the Wheelbase width to closely match the M35A3 since the A3 rims seem to work quite well. Op, If you would like, I can post here or PM you the prices and info on my new rims once I get the dimensions sorted out.

Thanks again.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Just to add more info and pics...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-VS-stock-deuce-rims-for-395s&highlight=hemtt

 

[Reaper651]

Just to add more info and pics...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-VS-stock-deuce-rims-for-395s&highlight=hemtt

I was wondering GimpyRob, What is the offset of your new modified Hemtt rims? Your truck looks awesome.

Edit: I meant, Backspacing. I'm still learning proper rim terms.