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Questions MEP803a

Tims

New member
7
12
3
Location
maine
I acquired a MEP803a with 218 hours. There is no reset tags. Have all the covers off: cleaned the rodents nests and cobwebs.. I removed the fuel tank to clean ( it needed it)
I have the brass well nuts for the tank. The fuse mod was already there and I now have the MOV. I also have all new filters.
The unit looks good . The air cleaner that it came with looks brand new.
I am not educated enough about break in oil. I know for a rebuilt motor its used. But, could I use it now just to be sure of a good quality break in or just assume its all taken care of with the first 100 hours. (no markings on the oil filter).
If no break in oil, would using a ZDDP additive along with rotella T6 be to much zinc. I think the T6 has 1200ppm of zinc in it.
Thanks for the TM's and all of the advice and thoughts that I have seen regarding the generators.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,284
4,744
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
There are 2 things you can never have too much of ( well more than 2 but I don't want to get scolded here... )
Green ( or tan ) generators...
and Zinc in your oil...
You probably don't need the ZDDP, but it will not hurt anything, I use it quite often in anything low hour.
However, now that you have one 803 you'll soon WANT more.
 

2Pbfeet

Well-known member
176
303
63
Location
Mt. Hamilton, CA
I acquired a MEP803a with 218 hours. There is no reset tags. Have all the covers off: cleaned the rodents nests and cobwebs.. I removed the fuel tank to clean ( it needed it)
I have the brass well nuts for the tank. The fuse mod was already there and I now have the MOV. I also have all new filters.
The unit looks good . The air cleaner that it came with looks brand new.
I am not educated enough about break in oil. I know for a rebuilt motor its used. But, could I use it now just to be sure of a good quality break in or just assume its all taken care of with the first 100 hours. (no markings on the oil filter).
If no break in oil, would using a ZDDP additive along with rotella T6 be to much zinc. I think the T6 has 1200ppm of zinc in it.
Thanks for the TM's and all of the advice and thoughts that I have seen regarding the generators.
If you go the break in oil route, change the oil and oil filter again at 100 hours. I have done it on a few engines that I either didn't know the history of, or had doubts about the cleanliness (dirt / casting sand, etc.) of the engine. I agree with @Ray70 that you can't have too much ZDOP added (within reason!). I would not go wild with additives in break in oil, as break in oils are almost always non-detergent oils, and many additives packages contain detergents. If in doubt, I would leave the additives out for the break in duration.

All the best,

2Pbfeet
 
Last edited:

Tims

New member
7
12
3
Location
maine
Thanks for the help everyone, I do appreciate it. I 'll get the john deere 10-30 break in oil and run it. Hopefully I can fire it up here soon. Just need to get the new well nuts in and the new return lines installed. Work keeps getting in the way. The privilege of being self employed. Once again, thank you.
 

Tims

New member
7
12
3
Location
maine
A little bit of an update: I ended up draining the rest of the coolant out and filling it with distilled water and draining that out a couple of times. I took the radiator hoses off. I am going to get new ones. I believe a member here sells them. Also a new cap and thermostat ( came with a 190 ) I will be sending out the oil for a analysis.
I noticed the wix fuel filter (33348) came with only the bowl to housing gasket. The old filter has a gasket the goes from the filter to the housing. Do I need that gasket or not?
Once again thanks for all the info and advice
Regards
 

2Pbfeet

Well-known member
176
303
63
Location
Mt. Hamilton, CA
A little bit of an update: I ended up draining the rest of the coolant out and filling it with distilled water and draining that out a couple of times. I took the radiator hoses off. I am going to get new ones. I believe a member here sells them. Also a new cap and thermostat ( came with a 190 ) I will be sending out the oil for a analysis.
I noticed the wix fuel filter (33348) came with only the bowl to housing gasket. The old filter has a gasket the goes from the filter to the housing. Do I need that gasket or not?
Once again thanks for all the info and advice
Regards
On the fuel filter, there should be a small o-ring (Dash-202 size?) on the screw stem or it can leak fuel or air. You want one in place. If your existing one is hard / dry / cracked, I would replace it.

All the best,

2Pbfeet
 

Tims

New member
7
12
3
Location
maine
Thanks 2Pbfeet for the o ring size. I ordered some viton ones. Is there a gasket that goes between the actual filter and the housing? (Not the bowl gasket)
The one that I removed had one.
 

uniquify

Active member
217
204
43
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Dug this up from one of my old posts in a different thread:


Wix 33348 canister cartridge comes with the large diameter o-ring for the edge of the bowl.

The pair of small rubber washers/gaskets that go around the bolt are Wix 15398. I couldn't find any locally, so I ordered some online from RockAuto.
 

2Pbfeet

Well-known member
176
303
63
Location
Mt. Hamilton, CA
Thanks 2Pbfeet for the o ring size. I ordered some viton ones. Is there a gasket that goes between the actual filter and the housing? (Not the bowl gasket)
The one that I removed had one.
Here's a fuel filter thread that goes over the final filter assembly that might help. It helped me. (Along with @uniquify's other posts! I found @Guyfang's trick with spinning the fuel filter just before it is tight to be invaluable for seating the upper o-ring on the housing which is both tiny and has next to no landing area.)

All the best,

2Pbfeet
 

Tims

New member
7
12
3
Location
maine
Regarding the thermostat, I've seen the part numbers for murray (55358) and the stant (45348) , not sure if there are others. Has anyone found a stat that might have a small bleeder hole in it or should I jus drill one. Or, is that not necessary.
 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,412
4,597
113
Location
MA
I don't recall the #s I've used in these machines offhand, but if you got those SKUs from this forum... they will work as intended without any modification required.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,284
4,744
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
If you want to you can drill a small hole ( 1/8" or smaller ) to help bleed out air but its really not necessary.
The only time you really have problems and can be saved by a bleeder hole is when your radiator cap is lower than the thermostat, which isn't the case in your 803.
 

Tims

New member
7
12
3
Location
maine
So, I have been looking for some torque specs for the thermostat housing and coming up empty. I've replaced some before on other engines and the torque was not much.. Is there a value or snug the bolts up and call it good. Thanks.
 
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