Questions MEP803a

[Tims]

I acquired a MEP803a with 218 hours. There is no reset tags. Have all the covers off: cleaned the rodents nests and cobwebs.. I removed the fuel tank to clean ( it needed it)
I have the brass well nuts for the tank. The fuse mod was already there and I now have the MOV. I also have all new filters.
The unit looks good . The air cleaner that it came with looks brand new.
I am not educated enough about break in oil. I know for a rebuilt motor its used. But, could I use it now just to be sure of a good quality break in or just assume its all taken care of with the first 100 hours. (no markings on the oil filter).
If no break in oil, would using a ZDDP additive along with rotella T6 be to much zinc. I think the T6 has 1200ppm of zinc in it.
Thanks for the TM's and all of the advice and thoughts that I have seen regarding the generators.

 

[Guyfang]

Welcome to the forum!

I don't think you NEED to use break in oil, but you sure can, if you want. I am going to pull a few real experts in here to talk about additives.
@Ray70 @Chainbreaker @Daybreak @jamawieb

There are a lot more, but my sad, moth eaten brain is tired. So lets see who chimes in.

 

[Ray70]

There are 2 things you can never have too much of ( well more than 2 but I don't want to get scolded here... )
Green ( or tan ) generators...
and Zinc in your oil...
You probably don't need the ZDDP, but it will not hurt anything, I use it quite often in anything low hour.
However, now that you have one 803 you'll soon WANT more.

 

[2Pbfeet]

I acquired a MEP803a with 218 hours. There is no reset tags. Have all the covers off: cleaned the rodents nests and cobwebs.. I removed the fuel tank to clean ( it needed it)
I have the brass well nuts for the tank. The fuse mod was already there and I now have the MOV. I also have all new filters.
The unit looks good . The air cleaner that it came with looks brand new.
I am not educated enough about break in oil. I know for a rebuilt motor its used. But, could I use it now just to be sure of a good quality break in or just assume its all taken care of with the first 100 hours. (no markings on the oil filter).
If no break in oil, would using a ZDDP additive along with rotella T6 be to much zinc. I think the T6 has 1200ppm of zinc in it.
Thanks for the TM's and all of the advice and thoughts that I have seen regarding the generators.

If you go the break in oil route, change the oil and oil filter again at 100 hours. I have done it on a few engines that I either didn't know the history of, or had doubts about the cleanliness (dirt / casting sand, etc.) of the engine. I agree with @Ray70 that you can't have too much ZDOP added (within reason!). I would not go wild with additives in break in oil, as break in oils are almost always non-detergent oils, and many additives packages contain detergents. If in doubt, I would leave the additives out for the break in duration.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[Tims]

Thanks for the help everyone, I do appreciate it. I 'll get the john deere 10-30 break in oil and run it. Hopefully I can fire it up here soon. Just need to get the new well nuts in and the new return lines installed. Work keeps getting in the way. The privilege of being self employed. Once again, thank you.

 

[Tims]

A little bit of an update: I ended up draining the rest of the coolant out and filling it with distilled water and draining that out a couple of times. I took the radiator hoses off. I am going to get new ones. I believe a member here sells them. Also a new cap and thermostat ( came with a 190 ) I will be sending out the oil for a analysis.
I noticed the wix fuel filter (3334 came with only the bowl to housing gasket. The old filter has a gasket the goes from the filter to the housing. Do I need that gasket or not?
Once again thanks for all the info and advice
Regards

 

[kloppk]

Contact Light In The Dark for the hoses.

 

[2Pbfeet]

A little bit of an update: I ended up draining the rest of the coolant out and filling it with distilled water and draining that out a couple of times. I took the radiator hoses off. I am going to get new ones. I believe a member here sells them. Also a new cap and thermostat ( came with a 190 ) I will be sending out the oil for a analysis.
I noticed the wix fuel filter (3334 came with only the bowl to housing gasket. The old filter has a gasket the goes from the filter to the housing. Do I need that gasket or not?
Once again thanks for all the info and advice
Regards

On the fuel filter, there should be a small o-ring (Dash-202 size?) on the screw stem or it can leak fuel or air. You want one in place. If your existing one is hard / dry / cracked, I would replace it.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[Tims]

Thanks 2Pbfeet for the o ring size. I ordered some viton ones. Is there a gasket that goes between the actual filter and the housing? (Not the bowl gasket)
The one that I removed had one.

 

[uniquify]

Dug this up from one of my old posts in a different thread:


Wix 33348 canister cartridge comes with the large diameter o-ring for the edge of the bowl.

The pair of small rubber washers/gaskets that go around the bolt are Wix 15398. I couldn't find any locally, so I ordered some online from RockAuto.

 

[2Pbfeet]

Thanks 2Pbfeet for the o ring size. I ordered some viton ones. Is there a gasket that goes between the actual filter and the housing? (Not the bowl gasket)
The one that I removed had one.

Here's a fuel filter thread that goes over the final filter assembly that might help. It helped me. (Along with @uniquify's other posts! I found @Guyfang's trick with spinning the fuel filter just before it is tight to be invaluable for seating the upper o-ring on the housing which is both tiny and has next to no landing area.)

Leaking engine fuel filter

I mentioned this in the other thread on “MEP 802-803 filters” The third stage filter (just before the injector “tree”) leaked. A lot. Fast forward to sourcing new seals, cleaning out about a gallon of spilled fuel (really really), and the thing STILL leaks. How hard is this, anyway? There...

www.steelsoldiers.com

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[Tims]

Regarding the thermostat, I've seen the part numbers for murray (5535 and the stant (4534 , not sure if there are others. Has anyone found a stat that might have a small bleeder hole in it or should I jus drill one. Or, is that not necessary.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I don't recall the #s I've used in these machines offhand, but if you got those SKUs from this forum... they will work as intended without any modification required.

 

[Ray70]

If you want to you can drill a small hole ( 1/8" or smaller ) to help bleed out air but its really not necessary.
The only time you really have problems and can be saved by a bleeder hole is when your radiator cap is lower than the thermostat, which isn't the case in your 803.

 

[Tims]

So, I have been looking for some torque specs for the thermostat housing and coming up empty. I've replaced some before on other engines and the torque was not much.. Is there a value or snug the bolts up and call it good. Thanks.

 

[Guyfang]

I am sure that there is a torque chart in the back of the -24 TM. Might look there.

 

[Ray70]

Whenever in doubt if you can't find a torque spec. you can check what size fastener you have and then look up general torque specs for that diameter fastener.
Things like thermostat housings, covers etc. are not critical and just need to be tight within reason.
1 handed wrist tighten with a 3/8" ratchet will get you there.

 

[Tims]

Here is an update: I fired up the 803a and ran it for around 10 minutes. Checking for leaks as it ran. Measured power production. Then I shut it down and let it cool off for a few hours and kept checking for leaks. Fired it up again and same procedure. So far so good. I ended up make a thermostat housing gasket. The 2138 just did not seem to fit right for what ever reason. The coolant gauge is not working. I loosened and tighten the gauge and connections but still nothing. I will look at it more this weekend I hope. I plan on making a load bank shortly with a couple of heaters that I have.
Thanks for the input from everyone. Its reassuring knowing that help is there.

 

[Tims]

Update and question: I installed a new coolant gauge than I made up a load bank and ran it 3 times for 3.5 hours each and had it loaded to 75 percent each time. I checked the exhaust temps with a IR gun. From the radiator side to the gen head side, I had 260,300,320,and 380. Of course the temps are fluctuating by 50 degrees because I can't hold the red dot steady . Would this be some where near Normal?
Also, the frequency cable that is attached to the plate with the 2 stop screws: what would the normal position for that to be at? Mine has the plate very close to the stop screw closest to the center of the engine. And, on a side note: our last chicken became lunch for another critter. Now I can clean the coup out and put the generator in it for a nice home.

 

[Light in the Dark]

No that spread is too large. If you look at where the fuel lines break out from the rigid line (off the fuel filter bowl), down to the individual metering pumps... the hose mounts onto barbs there. Is the position of each fuel line connection in about the same position (ie... is it almost touching the push rod tube on each cylinder)?

As for the stops, unless they have been messed with... they are factory set. If your set reads 60hz, and you confirm with a handheld meter (not just trusting the gauge) then the stop position distances mean nothing. Its all about the engine being at 60hz. If you cannot achieve 60, thats a whole other ball game worth talking about in reference to possibly correcting stop positions (or other possibilities).