Questions on painting a M109

[3dAngus]

Looks like it will be Rapco 383 carc replacement right now. No Krylon for sure. I've ruled that out completely based on opinions expressed today. Probably use a combo of spray cans and gallons in a gun, but finally going over everything with a gun to match. Rust areas will be blasted to the metal, cleaned, primed, spray can, and when all is done by prep, I will go over it again in its entirety with the gun and mixing the gallon of paint with xlene at 80/20.
Well, at least, thats the dream sheet right now. Might even try to transfer it to a M1061E1 trailer and tow, putting a bed back on this deuce, and having both truck AND trailer with camper on it. It seems to be th combo more accomodating to my needs, but it's kinda early yet and I'm just speaking out loud.

My wife and I went out to see it Friday and the only serious rust issues on the outside were the hardtop. I can always remove that and replace with a softtop, or just work it easier from the ground. I'll make that call when it is off. On the inside, it had a water leak from the water pump which runs off the batteries. All the batteries were good and it started up fine, even though the instrument panel was removed completely. The air leaked where someone put a screw in the air gauge hose running to the panel but I think this one may be driveable back home as is. I will be getting a instrument panel shortly to go in there.
Only problem with all this is, I may have to sell my M35A3, because I need the money, and I don't have a place for two. I absolutely hate that, but I know it will go to a good home and that will make me feel better.

 

[Welder Sam]

Angus, i used krylon olive on my suburban. I like the color and overall appearance but its not a tough paint at all. I wouldnt use it again except as a quick fix.

 

[MWMULES]

I am right at 230 and I have been all over the roof of my M109 box and not had a problem. I had coated the box top with kool seal elastomeric roof coating to keep the heat down and make sure I would not have seam leaks in the future. I then over sprayed green on the edges so you can only see the white if you are above the truck.

 

[maccus]

Link worked for me. Maccus, what was your preferred pressure setting for that gun?

BTW, is it safe to walk on the roof of these things to paint, or do you paint the roof from a ladder.

I use 40psi going into the guns regulator . That is using the gun I posted the web page for. On a solid color paint job I use to use 4 gal when using a regular gun. With the HVLP I can cut off more than one gallon. Last truck I did in a soild color I used just a little over 2.7 gallons (soft top truck). HVLP is the way to go. Also get the little touch up gun HF sells. As it is the cats meow for doing the spots you will miss or do a little to lightly.

HVLP Touch Up Spray Gun

I am a chunky old dog and I walked on the roof to paint and add some roof vents, No problem. When walking on the roof you can feel where the supports are and try to walk on them mostly and you will be fine.

TRIVIA..... I was on the roof on a hot sunny day and I noticed that as you would expect the black color and the brown were a lot hotter to the touch. So I painted only the 383 green on the center of the roof. I stood on a tall step ladder and sort of painted the side camo colors just over the curved part of the side/roof line. Seems to run a little cooler inside the van on a hot sunny day. The two roof vents were the neat deal as far as making the inside cooler. Use the steel vent cover not the plastic ones however for obvious reasons.

Ventline Ventadome Trailer Roof Vent - Manual - 14-1/4" x 14-1/4" - Metal Ventline Enclosed Trailer Parts V2110SP-24

 

[135gmc]

I was going to use Milspec Co's CARC replacement paint - its a water based CARC substitute urethane that they sell for very serious restorations. I decided not to since I would be repainting an existing paint job that was in very good condition - it just had a few repairs that I needed to paint. I went with the Rapco paint as well. Thinned with Xylol. If you use the Rapco, give it a few days to cure and harden before you handle the painted areas very much.

Remember that the most common way to apply a camo pattern was to use a brush instead of a spraygun. The military has so many environmental and safety requirements to spray paint that a brush becomes the only way for a NG or reserve outfit to apply paint to a vehicle. Military paint suppliers make touchup kits for military users with either a brush or a pad-type dauber so they can apply CARC without needing all the protective gear they would need to spray CARC.

 

[peashooter]

I just did my 109 this summer. I asked many of the same questions on here earlier this year.
For what its worth, what I neded up doing was using a couple angle grinders, one with a wire cup wheel, one with a wire disk wheel. Used that to get all the rust and loose paint off. sanded the rest of the "good" areas with a orbital sander and some 80 or 100 grit paper. Scraped all the old sealant and caulking off with a chisle, cleaned all the seams with xylene then resealed the seams with Vulkem caulking. Used 2 gallons of Herculiner truck bed liner on the roof of the box and floor of the cab (found on craigs list cheap).
I used about 2 gallons of Rustoleum rusty metal red primer to do the whole truck & wheels (outside). I ordered 4 gallons or rapco 383 and used 3 (got about 4 coats on but havent painted inside the cab yet).
I really liked the rustoleum primer, it was cheap, has rust prevention, sprayed well, and filled imperfections and flowed out surprisingly well. Per someone else's recommendations I mixed all the paint 4 parts paint to 1 part xylene and also used a hardener (valspar restoration series) that you mix in 1 pint to 1 gal ratio's. It was really nice to get it to harden quicker and probably a harder finish for life but I suspect it gives it a little more sheen than no hardener so the last coat I just put on a lighter mist to give it a matte look.
I started off using Harbor freight gravity feed HVLP guns that worked great but gave my air compressor a workout and required constant filling. A local guy showed interest in my project and loaned me a Wagner HVLP turbine sprayer that basically has a turbine fan built into a seperate box that heats the air and blows it into a larger gun... it worked really well and made the project go WAY Faster. Harbor freight sells something similar but I'm not sure if the needle is large enough to be able to put a thicker paint on (rather than a thinner stain like product that it may be intended for). The HF version I've seen go for as low as $60 but its usually about $80 High Volume, Low Pressure Spray Gun Kit Also I walked on the roof, just tried to step on the areas where there is support underneath like the areas where the seams are.

 

[peashooter]

The two roof vents were the neat deal as far as making the inside cooler. Use the steel vent cover not the plastic ones however for obvious reasons.

Ventline Ventadome Trailer Roof Vent - Manual - 14-1/4" x 14-1/4" - Metal Ventline Enclosed Trailer Parts V2110SP-24[/QUOTE]


I've been looking for a metal roof vent.... to go to all the trouble of adding a vent to these trucks and only finding cheapo flimsy plastic ones didnt seem right when one small hail storm would perforate them. Thanks for the link, did you find these to be quality?

 

[SCSG-G4]

BTW, is it safe to walk on the roof of these things to paint, or do you paint the roof from a ladder.

Dell,

I've walked on mine, and you have already met me. Now my roofs were in good shape (no leaks or bad rust spots) and that could make a difference. Strongest parts will be right over the frame rails/seams.

 

[maccus]

I've been looking for a metal roof vent.... to go to all the trouble of adding a vent to these trucks and only finding cheapo flimsy plastic ones didn't seem right when one small hail storm would perforate them. Thanks for the link, did you find these to be quality?[/QUOTE]


Yes the vents are of very good quality. They should take a pretty good storm with no problem