Radials plus innertubes

[cranetruck]

Could the use of an innertube have prevented this (image)?
Does the innertube make radials safer when the old rubber begins to show signs of "dry rot"?
The tires on the M656/XM757/XM791 trucks are tubeless radials.

 

[rgregj]

IMHO no. Unless the blow out was a result of loss of air pressure due to the dry rot. It would seem that when the sidewall became weak, the thin inner tube would not help much to reinforce it. Just my two cents.

Greg Jackson

 

[ah1955]

I don't think that an innertube would make much difference, if the tire is dry rotted and weakened then a tube would not add any strenth.

 

[TheBuggyman]

Ditto on ^.

 

[rizzo]

I'm guessing that it could help in a blowout situation and light duty work.

but I can make guesses about a lot of things.

 

[timntrucks]

that tire was on its last leg, i dont think the inner tube would have helped, first sign of heat and the inner tubes is gone TIm

 

[derby]

I have had inner tubes in some old dry rotted farm implement tires,and they only seem to delay the the blow out. and even might make it worse as the tube tends to bulge out of any hole and tearing the tire further.Dunno if it would have helped your situation or not.plus the implement tires are not 12 ply.

 

[rmgill]

In researching tires the past few months on my singles project, I did learn that inner tubes will help prevent air from getting into separations in the tire due to age or damage. The tire is still weakened, but the pressurized air will find it's way into layers if there's no tube to get into the spaces and make them separate more until it gets to the surface and you have a blowout. Radials that are tubeless have some other specified failure modes over and above tube type tires setups.

 

[SierraHotel]

Uh…I might not be right (and am certainly not an expert), but my blow out…and I mean blow out…looked like it was from the inner tube getting into a space in the plies or the inner tube leaking and the air getting into a space in the plies. Regardless, it created a blister the size of your head in my tire that you could see growing and blew rather dramatically. The whole process took less than a minute. My tires are tubed and it took out the top half of the tire (cross-section), leaving the lower half (of the cross-section). I’d love to have an expert explain it to me…I’m still scratching my head and a tad bit scared or nervous (I haven’t decided yet) and kind of pissed (the friggin’ lug nuts will not budge - I bent a 7 foot breaker bar!)

 

[maddawg308]

That brings up another point:

If you are using a tubeless tire with a wheel that has a lock-ring, like the M715's wheel, do you need a tube at all? And if so, does the tube matter what type it is? (Radial tube vs. bias tube)

 

[cranetruck]

that tire was on its last leg, i dont think the inner tube would have helped, first sign of heat and the inner tubes is gone TIm

The tire that blew looked like the one in front of it, the tread part peeled off and was left behind along the road somewhere.
It lasted almost exactly 1,000 miles. All tires on this truck are dated 1969 or 1970.
I may have to spend some big bucks before taking this thing on a road trip again.

 

[cranetruck]

… and kind of pissed (the friggin’ lug nuts will not budge - I bent a 7 foot breaker bar!)

I'm sure you are aware that the lug nuts are left and rights and may be installed on the wrong side of the truck. Look for the "L" or "R" stamped on the nuts to make sure.....

 

[ah1955]

That brings up another point:

If you are using a tubeless tire with a wheel that has a lock-ring, like the M715's wheel, do you need a tube at all? And if so, does the tube matter what type it is? (Radial tube vs. bias tube)

I don't think you can put a tubeless tire on a lock ring wheel, the bead would be completely different and would not seal on a lock ring wheel. Even with a tube I wouldn't think the tire would seat correctly on the wheel because the beads are different.

 

[G744]

Gama Goat wheels are tubless AND have a lock ring. They seal along the annular surface just behind the ring, which make changing them a bit of a chore at time (I run them on my M37).

That being said, they are the only ones like it I've ever seen on an stock MV. They were made by SanKey in England for Condec.

dg

 

[SierraHotel]

No…I must humbly admit that I did not know that…although I suspected as much. Perhaps I read it somewhere…probably on this board. I’m still in the working on ‘4-wheelers’ stage and learning. I did try running a few clockwise, but no dice either. Right now they are soaking in Liquid Wrench Super Lubricant and I set it into the threads with vibrations from an impact ratchet. I’ll probably squirt them again tomorrow and if all else fails; I’ll put on my steel pot helmet and Kevlar vest and heat ‘em.
Thanks for the smoothly put advice Cranetruck. Fortunately, I’m old enough to put my ego in my back pocket and learn instead of bluster (even if I don’t always sound like it). Hopefully, I will continue to learn more and more from this board and the TM’s on it to avoid killing myself…or dare I say it…my Deuce.

 

[SierraHotel]

Of course, before the signs go up, here’s what a head sized blister will do to a Deuce tire…

 

[ah1955]

G744 thanks for explaining to me the type wheel that was being talked about.
I wondering as I was writting that post if I was on the wrong page with my thinking.
I was thinking of the old split ring tube type tire and wheel ,not a tubeless tire wheel with a lock ring. Thanks for setting me straight.

 

[cranetruck]

Sierra, check this thread out for a method of loosening lug nuts:
http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=6227&highlight=lug

Credit to Joel (BFR).

 

[ARMYMAN30YearsPlus]

I was a truck mechanic at the George Port truck stop at the New Canaan B3 stop on the New York Thru-way back when I was a Bible College student and one night a local guy came in with an old dump truck with a rear flat. I used every trick in the book and a lot of compressed air with a CP 1" extended hammer air wrench. Nothing would touch them so I had to use the Oxy-Acetaline torch to heat and then quench the stud with a wet rag then attack with the air wrench. One by one they yielded and after a lot of sweat I got the joy of trying to break the bead on the tire since it ignored the efforts of our tire machine. Only after many blows with a Kentool tire hammer did that sucker finally yield.

We did have a hand painted sign in the tire bay that said " Smile it's better than a lube job and oil change" And that it was the only oil on me was my own sweaty mess.