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Radiator and master cyl.

ida34

Well-known member
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Dexter, MI
If you are close enough to Ann Arbor you might try A and B radiator. I worked for them back in the 80's and I have never seen a more capable an honest operation. The owner's name is Larry Lakes. If he says you need something you really need it. He will not run the bill up.
 

Stretch44875

Super Jr. Moderator
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Tiro, Ohio
Can a the deposits be cleaned out of the deuce radiator? Pretty sure mine is plugged some, I am running 210-220 degrees when towing in the summer. I did drive 200 miles that way, no boiling over. Checked the thermostat, it starts to open at 185, and is done at 195.

On the GL radiators, I am only hour north of columbus, could possibly pick them up and store if someone buys the lot. Would like to get one, have to work out prices and all.

Dennis
________
Lovely Wendie
 
Last edited:

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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GA Mountains
This is what Dman told me. Drain the cooling system and block, add a gallon of CLR and top off with water. Run for 30 to 45 minutes, drain and flush. Refill and you should be good to go.
 

ida34

Well-known member
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32
48
Location
Dexter, MI
Most commercial flush and fills are just running water from a hose into one of the heater hoses. Look for a "power" flush. The add a cleaning solution to the rad then attach a machine that kind of power washes the inside of the cooling system. I have no experience with the CLR method. If you have alot of calcium deposits you should be able to see them when you look down inside the radiator with the coolant drained. Having a shop take it apart and cleaning it manually is an option but is only worth it for very expensive radiators. It has been a long time since I worked at the rad shop so I don't know how much this costs now. We used to call it rodding the radiator. I would try the cheapest method and go up from there.
 
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