Radiator = Head gasket problem

[Haven alot of fun]

Well I got the new sleeve in and head gasket. looked a little harder at it before I put it together. Found that the back side of were the sleeve goes in on the #6 block is cracked.#### Well I'll just put it back together and put less preasure on the back two head bolts. Then put some radiator leak stop in and try to make it last till I have the fund's to replace the motor. Should of bid on that motor last week on action. 1d turbo.
Maybe next time .See what the new year brings. Thank you for all your help in solving the problem.

Have a safe Hoilday

 

[USMCGunny]

Have the same similar issue, radiator keeps blowing its cap. I replaced the cap, the temp sensor, thermostat and gauge. I had the radiator cleaned by a radiator shop just after I bought it this year. It was losing coolant from a busted seam. They cooked the radiator flushed and fixed all the leaks. I then noticed the temp gauge was not working and replaced it after a very long troubleshooting of the wiring harness. Replaced the sensor and the end just fell apart. Thats been all repaired. Not sure if the sensor matches the gauge, It starts out at zero and runs up to 240. but I think I have other issues. The truck runs fine, no white smoke, to cross contamination in the oil or the water. no milky haze on the oil filler cap. With the truck running the radiator burps a little. Not a lot of air bubbles. Even when the thermostat opens up there is not a lot of bubbles. NAPA sells a exhaust gas test to test for cylinder head gasket failures not sure if its feasible on the deuce's engine. We took her for a drive the other night and she ran fine, went filled fuel and the gauge was coming up a little so we headed down the road. 15 miles into the drive the windshield was getting wet from the cap leaking coolant and the temp gauge was at 240. Got to where we where going and pulled the truck over and I shot the radiator with a thermal gun. The top was hot and bottom was 100 degree colder. The thermostat housing was reading the same on both sides of thermostat. I shot the block and found no extreme differences in temp from cylinder to cylinder. Though I might have a head gasket leaking but no definable sign. Is it a blocked radiator, is it a water pump not pumping due to blockage or leaking exhaust gas into the coolant.

 

[cattlerepairman]

A freshly filled radiator/coolant system will bubble and burp air but will eventually settle down. In the process, it may also "blow off" some excess coolant. There is no coolant expansion tank. My Deuce wants its coolant level to sit just below the bend in the filler neck. When fill it over that it will burp the excess out over a couple of days with coolant spatter everywhere and one could think there is a coolant leak. Then it stops and that's it.

A head gasket leak or a cracked block are the only ways to truly (over)pressurize your cooling system. An exhaust gas probe that sniffs CO is one way to do it...run the truck, then open the rad cap and have the probe sniff the filler neck. A good load of CO confirms a leak. I suspect the NAPA kits would do the same.

Your temp gauge and sender need checking (the 240 reading), and there are troubleshooting steps for that. You used a thermal image camera (good thinking!) so you know the engine did not truly overheat (if it did, you'd think water pump or blocked coolant passages). You know that your rad itself is good and you have a new cap.

I would be interested to know if the purging of coolant simply stops after a while and the truck pretends nothing ever happened. Maybe it is just a fill level issue.