Rattle from front of engine. Alternator?

[cwajciec]

I hope this video posts, but I have a pretty loud rattle from the area of the alternator. Will the alt make this noise and what can I do to fix it? The belts did squeak a couple times even though the belts seem tight. Sound familiar?

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0owoSEIbibn6INPw_2Kdr8dng#Home

 

[Milcommoguy]

Two cent test for free. Stop the noise. Pull the belts off and give alternator a spin by hand. Look listen and feel for clunky, rough, grinding, sloppy bearing, shaft movement, goofy end play. Another thing to look for is broken / cracked mounting ears on alternator lower front and rear. Didn't see the usual belt flop / slop from the pictures. If this doesn't point to alternator (your first guess, i'am with you) with belts still off AND in hand... start and run for the next update / video.

Nothing on TV tonight anyway,

CAMO

 

[papakb]

Another indicator that the noise is coming from the alternator is the vibration of the cover over the electrical connectors. And Cam, Marraige Bootcamp is on tonight. Did you forget? LOL

 

[Milcommoguy]

I have 17 more steps to go and she just reminded me to get off SS and GOOoo, papakb. Are the "Got the Green Disease" pills working? Not so sure they helped me after all the years.

And the street value, priceless.

Best therapy is keep turning wrenches with 86humv,

CAMO

 

[cwajciec]

Update on the noise. It is coming from the 60Amp Alternator. I took it off and the front nut that holds the pulley on was loose. This allowed the cooling fan blades to contact the housing and cause a noise. I tightened it up but I'm not convinced the noise is totally gone. I still feel like under load the rear needle bearing has a noise.
I was looking for bearing rebuild kits and I found 90-2531 and 90-2532 in the Parts TM. But I can't find the TM that goes into the steps for tearing down and rebuilding the Alternator. Can someone help link this for me? I think I'll take it apart and replace the bearings and maybe the brushes if needed. Thanks for the assistance so far!

 

[Hoefler]

I had a rattle coming from mine. I found the lower bolt that holds it to engine (view from beneath the truck), had been broke off. I installed a new one-rattle gone.
Pete

 

[Bulldogger]

Update on the noise. It is coming from the 60Amp Alternator. I took it off and the front nut that holds the pulley on was loose. This allowed the cooling fan blades to contact the housing and cause a noise. I tightened it up but I'm not convinced the noise is totally gone. I still feel like under load the rear needle bearing has a noise.
I was looking for bearing rebuild kits and I found 90-2531 and 90-2532 in the Parts TM. But I can't find the TM that goes into the steps for tearing down and rebuilding the Alternator. Can someone help link this for me? I think I'll take it apart and replace the bearings and maybe the brushes if needed. Thanks for the assistance so far!

If you can't find it, I wouldn't be too worried to go ahead and pull it off (which is in the TM) and pull the ends off, it is straightforward. Clean it out w electronic/electrical cleaner while you have the ends off. Lectramotive is good, though pricey. The carbon brushes (the 60amp unit is actually a DC generator but all refer to it as an alternator) really dirty things up. Check the state of your brushes. They are inexpensive and not terribly hard to replace while you have it off. I bought brushes when I replaced my dead regulator (which makes up the rear endplate of the case) but mine had plenty of meat left .

Bulldogger

 

[papakb]

Bulldogger, The HMMWVs only used alternators. All generating devices have brushes the difference is the brushes ride on slip rings that energize the field winding in an alternator and the brushes in a generator ride on the commutator that's the output . Your correct about cleaning out the regulator cavity in the back of the alternator. All that carbon buildup can cause leakage currents that can kill your batteries. All of these bits and pieces can be purchased from Southern Automotive at pretty reasonable prices. Common items like replacement brushes are available at most good motor/generator repair sho[s for under $10.

 

[Milcommoguy]

In the HUMMWV... Only the 60 amp uses brushes. The others 100A, and dual 24/14 voltage units are brush-less. Not all rotating devices use brushes. Lots of newer designs are brush-less, motors, generators and alternators along with those darn scooters all over town.

I don't use a brush or a comb, Lost it years ago?

CAMO

 

[cwajciec]

Ok I’m back at it and the noise was still there. This time I pulled the ends off the alternator and here is what I found. Looks like the front bearing was greased with asphalt and the bearing wasn’t spinning. Slowly the rotor shaft was being machined away which increased the slop in the shaft. I tried to also take a video.

What are are my options? Oh and I also broke the brush holder on the backside in the process. Good place for parts or junk it and replace? The alt worked and the back end looks brand new.

Thanks for for the help guys.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0IUv4D6ubYWjxp8SdCoHZcSkg#Home

View attachment BA08924D-2D1B-43C1-8F8D-B46A942BD81A.MOV

 

[Keith_J]

Options? Machine the OD and bush to restore diameter. The bushing should be retained by anaerobic adhesive or thermally pressed on with a cold interference fit. A motor repair shop should be able to do this easily. A machinist will probably charge more, mostly for break in cost. Brush holders are a consumable part and should be in the supply system.

As far as brushless alternators, they are available. Two more windings plus rotating rectifiers (diodes) add to the complexity. Most military mobile power generation equipment is brushless even though they too are called "generators".

 

[teteacher101]

Ok I’m back at it and the noise was still there. This time I pulled the ends off the alternator and here is what I found. Looks like the front bearing was greased with asphalt and the bearing wasn’t spinning. Slowly the rotor shaft was being machined away which increased the slop in the shaft. I tried to also take a video.

What are are my options? Oh and I also broke the brush holder on the backside in the process. Good place for parts or junk it and replace? The alt worked and the back end looks brand new.

Thanks for for the help guys.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0IUv4D6ubYWjxp8SdCoHZcSkg#Home

View attachment 756371View attachment 756370View attachment 756372

If you have a local rebuild shop I would get a quote to see how much it will cost for them to rebuild it but if I had to guess it will end up being probably half the cost of one that is ready to bolt in in-depending on what they do about the shaft. If it was me I would consider something like this.

I personally bought a 200amp alternator and install kit a while back, but since my 60amp still works-I'm gonna keep running it for now!

 

[cwajciec]

Final update: my neighbor has a metal lathe so I turned the originally 20mm shaft collar down to 17mm and found a 17x52x16 bearing ironically from a Jaguar alternator. Fit perfectly and it’s spinning nicely again. Will replace the brushes next week and get it installed soon. All in all a $10 fix. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0CjFwuyIU0Jeehq6KvA8mwAog#Ashland,_VA