• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Re-Gearing Axles? This Marine Seeks Wisdom.

DavidJBlythe

New member
64
1
0
Location
Fort Meade, MD
All,

First off, thanks for all the help recently. I wouldn't know the first thing about how to fix this stuff without y'all!

My question: I don't have much money to spend but I would like to get a little more power when taking off from a traffic light! Shortly after buying my M1009, I replaced the original tires with 33" tires. It made my truck struggle to climb out of a pot-hole from a stop! I thought about doing an axle swap with an M1008 or a GM 3/4-ton truck, but I haven't really found much on Craigslist, Ebay, etc. Would anyone recommend re-gearing the 1/2 ton axles on my truck? I found some 4.10 ring and pinion sets for $150-$200, which is much cheaper than $1,000 or more for axles. Also, I don't have a welder to do shock mount swaps or anything like that, but I do have hand tools, air tools, etc.

Ideas? Thoughts? Recommendations? I'll take anything.

-Sgt Blythe, Fort Meade, MD.
BTW- I met AndyC in person today, under less than fortunate circumstances! SteelSoldiers came up in conversation almost immediately. I love this site!
 

Tanner

Active member
1,013
11
38
Location
Raleigh, NC
Unless you have the tools & gauges to properly setup the gears for proper tooth contact, mesh, bearing tolerances, and backlash, I wouldn't advise that you try tackling it... changing the ring & pinion gears is not a simple R&R operation.

'Tanner'
 

PROSTOCKTOM

New member
126
2
0
Location
West Central Indiana
Unless you have the tools & gauges to properly setup the gears for proper tooth contact, mesh, bearing tolerances, and backlash, I wouldn't advise that you try tackling it... changing the ring & pinion gears is not a simple R&R operation.

'Tanner'
Perfect advice.

Unless you have the tools and know what your doing your never going to be able to complete the swap yourself and get it correct.

My friend Jeff runs a rearend shop for a living.

Labor cost at his shop to regear the front and rear cost about $700 plus gears and lube and additive.

Yes regearing it would be the way to go and 4:10's would be a good choice, but you might want to find someone close to you to do it.

Tom
 

Vet89

New member
149
3
0
Location
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Good question, I was considering adjusting the 4.56 on my M1008 - I want to be able to go 60mph - It likes about 52 at the moment - I was thinking 4.10 also.
 
479
0
16
Location
Madison, WI
Perfect advice.

Unless you have the tools and know what your doing your never going to be able to complete the swap yourself and get it correct.

My friend Jeff runs a rearend shop for a living.

Labor cost at his shop to regear the front and rear cost about $700 plus gears and lube and additive.

Yes regearing it would be the way to go and 4:10's would be a good choice, but you might want to find someone close to you to do it.

Tom
Yup to what both said.

It's not just a "get out your sockets and wrenches" swap.

You need to get the bearings installed right, shimming, backlash, gear mesh, bolt torque, and everything perfect when you do ring and pinion work otherwise it will vibrate, be noisy and clunky, and things could wear really quick, bind, and break.

And all the measurements require special precision measurement tools to do it.

So definitely worth it to have it done at a shop.
 

chevyCUCV

New member
598
3
0
Location
Massachusetts
I'd buy an 80's chevy truck for scrap price
Make sure the axles are 3.42's or 3.73's

Put them in your truck, and have a parts vehicle on hand, sell off parts make money back
Free axle swap
Not worth it to go into the axles, At that point you might as well get d60/14b
 

Tanner

Active member
1,013
11
38
Location
Raleigh, NC
... I find that many CUCV owners tend to think that the CUCV is grossly different from a Civilian K-Series.

Nope. Other than a 24-volt hybrid/Rube Goldberg electrical system & some camo paint, they're pretty much the same...

'Tanner'
 

TCUCV

New member
213
0
0
Location
Chocowinity, NC
I agree, by the time you paid to get new gears put in you can pay for about 2/3 of getting a dana60 up front and a 14 bolt in the rear. Scour the internet and junkyards for the axles and you could probably put them on your self. Sounds like you want to get your hands dirty anyways. I believe the only problem you'll have is to get new leaf springs for the d60/14, brake lines and other stuff like that . . . good luck
 
479
0
16
Location
Madison, WI
What are your plans for the truck? Just wanna make it more driveable? Do you wanna turn it into a heavy-duty trail rig, or a good streetable truck that will see trails sometimes?

For just a driver, without spending a huge load of money or time,
I'd find a K10/K20/Suburban/Blazer with Dana 44 or 10 or 12 bolts that have a lower gear ratio. And swap them in. This would be the easiest swap, not many modifications should be required to bolt up 1/2 or lighter-duty 3/4 ton axles.

If you want a strong trail rig,
I'd look for a Dana 60/14 Bolt set. Can't get much stronger in a normal light truck axle. However, if they are 4.56 gears (like in an M1008 ) then your top speed will be limited to around 60-65mph, which will limit your streetability too.

You also have to keep in mind that the axles from a donor truck will probably have a lot of miles on them. And most people don't do much preventative maintenance on axles. So opening them up and checking them out is a must, along with changing lube and seals. And bearings wouldn't be a bad idea either. And remember that little parts here and there can add-up quickly.

Both can be good options. As well as getting whatever gear-ratio you want put in by a shop. The bonus to that is, brand new gears, inner bearings, seals, etc. done professionally.

Regardless of the route you take, changing gearing isn't very cheap or easy.

Ultimately, do as much research on axle swaps as you can (4x4 forums or coloradok5 would be good places to look for axle swapping information). Figure out your pros and cons/needs and wants, and do which ever you think fits your skills/wallet/time-frame/needs.
 

Anubis8472

New member
149
3
0
Location
Redford, Michigan
... I find that many CUCV owners tend to think that the CUCV is grossly different from a Civilian K-Series.

Nope. Other than a 24-volt hybrid/Rube Goldberg electrical system & some camo paint, they're pretty much the same...

'Tanner'
There is indeed more then that.
Springs are different.
Engine/trans is different.
Brake system is different.
Model year is different.

But realy, I can't fathom what you are replying to.
This is just a post asking about changing ratio.
Are you just randomly trolling in some attemp to condescend to CUCV owners?


As for an axle swap, you're not likely to find much in terms of a k-5 with anything but 3:08 gearing at a scrap yard. Look for 4x4 pickups, I don't know how the spring perch/shock mounts are going to line up but that would be a better chance of finding a ratio you're looking for.
 

4x4 Forever

Emerald Shellback
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Most of your K-5's are going to have 3.08, with 3.42 or 3.73 as an option. Your gonna have to look real close for the ratio you want.

The K-10's usually had 3.42 with 3.73 as an option. Again, your going to have to look closely for the ratio you want.

Changing out rings and pinions is not too bad, if you have to proper tools for setting up the backlash, preload, etc.. You might want to check on the 'break' if you want to go 4.10/11, I think you will have to change the carrier for 4.10/11 on your axles.

Good Luck!
 
Top