• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Rear air tank install

rustystud

Well-known member
9,172
2,729
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I installed the rear air tank I bought last year today. I installed it behind the last differential and the tow bar I installed. It's a 12" diameter by 26" long stainless steel tank I got off eBay. I plan on running the trailer brakes and rear external air line from it. I already ordered the R-14 valve. This way if I loose all air pressure I still can stop the trailer I'm towing. That is as long as I still have over 4psi pressure left to apply the R-14 valve.
Getting the clamps close enough to bolt together was a pain. I did have my "expandable Vise-Grips" but it didn't work on the left side bracket for some reason. So I had to go "old school" by using some "tie" wire and a screwdriver. Now I just have to run the new hose and install the R-14 valve when it gets here.


002.jpg003.jpg012.jpg
010.jpg006.jpg

In picture '1' you can see the fittings on the top of the tank. The closest one is the inlet with it's one-way check valve. The other one is the feed to the R-14 valve. Both lines are 1/2" .
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,172
2,729
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I'm sorry Rustystud but is there another thread on what your doing? I'm interested just not following.
I had another tank install last year, but are you asking about this air-tank installation ? No, this is the only one now. But I have quite a few other projects I've added to my deuce.
Lights, lots of lights. Hard top installation. Bumper extension and winch, fording unit. Air-dryer, driveline safety hoop, dual fuel tanks with switching circuit. Spin-on fuel filters, 12 volt alternator, 12 volt battery tray, rear mud flap fuel can supports, cab insulation, passenger side heater, tow bar, and others I forget at the moment. I will have one on my 12 volt supply for towing civilian trailers later. I already have the box and most all the parts except the connectors (military Amp style) . I have also run the wiring and the rear connector is installed. The brake controller is also installed and wired. So that is coming soon.
 
Last edited:

rustystud

Well-known member
9,172
2,729
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
005.jpg008.jpg010.jpg

Picture one is my new air-tank looking from the first rear differential. The second picture is my Bendix AD-9 Air-Dryer, and the third picture is my first air-tank I added last year.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,172
2,729
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Looks like it belongs there RS! Sweet install. I want to do an air drier as well. Not sure yet what to go with.
I went with the Bendix AD-9 since they are all over the place in every truck parts store. Also replacement parts (complete rebuild for spitter valve and all seals) and desiccant is only around $50.00 . The ones the military used are cheaper to buy but the replacement desiccant is very costly.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,172
2,729
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I like the air dryer also. I am a big fan of the lot-o-air thing you have going.
The rear air tank serves two purposes. One is for the trailer brakes. I will be installing a R-14 valve as soon as it gets here and using the air from this tank to supply the air. That way I can tow some larger trailers without worrying about pressure lose. Second, It provides me a good source of air for my 3/4" impact gun if I need to replace a tire on the road. This tank holds 12.75 gallons. Along with the 10 gallons from my new "wet" tank that should easily allow me to remove one tire without help from the compressor.
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,404
2,491
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
Yea Rusty I did just about the same thing years ago. I put a smaller unit on the tank and line that just feeds the air pack. At least yours protects all the tanks and feeds.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,172
2,729
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
001.jpg003.jpg004.jpg

I received my Bendix R-14 valve today. So tomorrow I will be installing it next to the new air-tank and running the line to the quick-disconnect (glad-hand) for the trailer "service" line.
For my next air project I will be installing a small air-tank for my new air-horns. I think I will mount them on the roof with a chain-pull to operate. Just for grins and giggles !
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,172
2,729
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
002.jpg012.jpg010.jpg

003.jpg

Finally got a chance to install the R-14 valve and hoses today. It all fits pretty good up there ! Picture one shows the R-14 valve on the swivel tow bracket. Picture two shows the valve from the back looking up. Picture three shows the rear air hose quick disconnect fitting (next to the trailer emergency air line) and the line from the air-tank.
Picture four is the same view as one. After posting I saw how fuzzy picture one was.
 
Last edited:

rustystud

Well-known member
9,172
2,729
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I'd like to do an extra set of horns also. What does the R-14 do for you? I found this yet not sure your idea with it. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/392673/Bendix-R-12-R-14-Relay-Valves.html
That is exactly how mine works in this system. Since I added this large 12.75 gallon tank in the back I figured I might as well take advantage of having the air back there. This way my trailer brakes will be applying a little faster and with more air-pressure then if the air had to come from the regular air tanks. To take advantage of the faster apply you need to change-out the 3/8" apply hose and go to a smaller 1/4" hose. This way the signal pressure is faster.
 
Top