Rear axel seal step by step

[Crazyguypa]

Does anyone know of a step by step for a rear axel seal replacement? I've looked and searched for 2 hours and I can't find one. I found the front axel step by step that Banshee did, are the rears similar? What parts do I or should I replace when doing the job?

 

[devilman96]

Here are the parts... http://www.odiron.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=4_48&products_id=626

TM 9-2320-209-20-2-2... page 14-46 (or 346 via Acrobat).... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=93

Pretty easy job compaired to the front axle...

 

[rsh253]

I Just replaced three of the rear seals on my M35. I found the following on the web and found it really helpful:

http://www.bunkerofdoom.com/mil/m35/raxle/index.html

It has some great photos and a nice drawing of the sealing arrangement so you can better understand how the seals are suppose to work. Some of the detail drawings on the Adobe copies of the TM seem to come out as black blobs.

One of the techniques I really like from the bunkerofdoom site vs what is shown in the TM is that you remove the outside wheel, and then remove the inner wheel with the brake drum still attached. The wheel and drum are heavy but one person can roll it around. Just don't let it drop flat on the ground it you don't have a helper since I'm not sure one guy could pick it up by himself.

I do have a question for those familiar with this job. My leaks were caused by plugged axle breathers. Then when I got into the hubs, I discovered that when the job was last done, no type of seal was put in the keyway under the outer bearing. I bought & installed the cork strip that was made to seal the keyway. Now it appears that one of the axles is leaking again, and I'm really wondering if the job was done correctly the last time. I installed the outer seal the same way as they were the previous time, and I'm wondering it that is correct. Should the flat side of the outer seal be facing towards the outside of the truck, or should the lip be facing the outside? Thanks.

-Ryss

 

[Stretch44875]

Lip rides against the bearing cone, facing in.

 

[devilman96]

The raised seal lip should ride aganst the bearing race... Or you could say the flat side faces outward... Silicone works well in place of the cork, some feel it works better... You can also buy a set of small block valve cover gaskets and cut your own keyway seals, depending shipping cost this might be more economical than buying the little pieces of cork.

 

[rsh253]

That's the way I installed them, so I'm not sure what I may have done wrong to cause the leak to start again. I may have over filled the housing. Is 3/4" below the fill hole correct? I initially had the level higher and then removed some of the gear oil to get it down to 3/4" below the fill hole. Any "tricks" that folks have found that work in preventing the seals to leak? From what I've read, keeping these seal leaking seem to be a problem.

 

[devilman96]

3/4" is reasonable...

I rebuilt my whole rear axle... then I had to go back and change the seals 2X on the passenger rear of my truck, then went back a third time and ended up changing the bearings (which were installed new when it was rebuilt)... That fixed the issue. I couldnt tell you why, Ive done a million sets of bearings in my life, these were nothing diffrent or special, something just wasnt jiving and I was sick of taking it apart (4 times in 1000 miles)... None the less it fixed it. Im not saying this is your issue but there are / could be several diffrent reasons. Bearings, bad seal(s), poor seating on the cork gasket, etc, etc, etc... Im sure someone else will add to the list.

 

[Floridianson]

If you were using the dolly you would not remove one wheel as you would lose balance. I like to have a helper and if you can find one you are golden. Soldier A left hand interlocks fingers with Soldier B right hand and this makes the cradle for the drum. Soldier A supports the hub with right hand and you install drum/hub. With out letting it droop on spindle Soldier B left hand has bearing/ outer seal packed and ready. Install bearing/seal and keep pressure on seal / bearing till nut is snug.
As said before cheap seal install tool is at Home Depot. I put a cap on mine and with two good wackes it is on. not the best pic of tool but you get the idea.

 

[Crazyguypa]

Would the truck be ok to drive < 60 miles before fixing the leak or should I sideline the truck until its fixed? It's only a small leak most likely due to a clogged breather valve. Parts due in tomorrow but need to do a quick run with the truck, but I don't want to trash anything in the process..

 

[jwaller]

Would the truck be ok to drive < 60 miles before fixing the leak or should I sideline the truck until its fixed? It's only a small leak most likely due to a clogged breather valve. Parts due in tomorrow but need to do a quick run with the truck, but I don't want to trash anything in the process..

\\

your not really going to hurt anything other than maybe soaking the shoes with gear oil.
I know ppl who have driven for thousands of miles before fixing the leak. not a problem.

 

[FormerNewMVGuy]

You can also buy sheets of rubberized cork from Mcmaster-carr, Thats enough to make a boat load of cork inserts, Thats what i did and then put a dab of silicone in between the washer and the cork, No more leaks!!!

 

[lavarok]

Here are the parts... http://www.odiron.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=4_48&products_id=626

TM 9-2320-209-20-2-2... page 14-46 (or 346 via Acrobat).... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=93

Pretty easy job compaired to the front axle...

The TM needed for this project is 9-2320-209-20-3-2, not TM 9-2320-209-20-2-2.
Page number is 14-46, 346 in acrobat, as referenced above.

 

[jwaller]

I like to use some RTV on the cork. seems to help. use all new seal on inner and outer and torque the bearings properly. dont use a chisel to do it. you can find the right socket if you look.

 

[ARYankee]

Well it looks like I need to replace mine. I noticed yesterday I had oil leaking from the first axle behind the passenger side tire. I tried to pull up the link earlier in the post for the parts from OD Iron but it didn't pull up anything. What parts do I need?

 

[lavarok]

Depends on how much you want to replace. If you just want to stop the gear oil, you should only need an Outer Seal, a keyed washer, and something to plug the keyway. I used cork from a Chevy small block valve cover gasket and some black RTV. You will most likely need to repack the bearings, so make sure you have some grease as well. Find a friend to help, soldier B will make the job easier.

 

[ARYankee]

Yeah I have a good soldier B in mind My father-in-law is really good at the whole mechanicing thing. I pretty much just want to fix the problem and also know of any thing I need to look at or possibly PM while I got tore apart.

 

[jedawson1]

can you send me a link to the front axel step by step by Banshee? I can't find it.

 

[m816]

Using a wheel dolly is the best way to remove the wheels with the drum. It makes the job a lot simpler and safer. I think that you should check or replace the axel breathers. make the fluid level one knuckle down from the bottom of the hole. shine up the surfave where seal rides with emery cloth. repack the berings and use a new seal at each wheel.It coild ba bur on the axel housing oreven a bur from the bering race is scratching the seal and causing the leak. Silicone in place of the cork on the outer seal. You will have to clean the shoes to get the oil that is soaked into them before you put the whole thing back together. I like to jack up both side of the axel and use a stand under the opposite side that I'm working on. seems to help get the wheel to slide back on. I've been replacing brakes, bearings and seals on these things since forever. It is a heavy job and at this stage in the game requires copious amounts of adult beverages and frequent rest periods. But your truck will be happy.