Rear axle seal leak

[BEASTMASTER]

u want to check all the vents on the axels and tranny and t- case , make sure the spring is working,

 

[kenn]

u want to check all the vents on the axels and tranny and t- case , make sure the spring is working,

The front one had obviously been replaced at some time as it was brass-ish looking and clean. The rear and intermediate are questionable. I'll probably just replace both before I get back on the road but, at a minimum, that is on the to-do list before I button it up and go joyriding.

 

[INFChief]

It appears that just maybe the rear driver and intermediate lugs haven't been removed in a very, very long time. Inner lugs aren't coming out. I don't want to buy a $300 impact as my compressor isn't going to drive it without burning it up. Off to google and a little searching and I found a lug nut torque multipler for under $100 that will produce an insane amount of torque. It is essentially a planetary gear reduction and they come in 58:1, 64:1, and 86:1 for rough torque strength of 4 to about 7 thousand foot pounds. Google search "lug nut torque multiplier wrench" or something similar and you'll find it. I watched a couple of videos on youtube and a guy walked a 1 1 /2" lug off by hand that previously bent his breaker bar (like I've done, lol).

If you have huge nuts that need to be handled, this may be the answer. It's so easy, even your wife can do it. It even goes both ways. Man, these write themselves, lol.

Remember that one side is reverse threads!

 

[Mullaney]

Remember that one side is reverse threads!

.
Yes Indeed!!

Righty Tighty only works on the RIGHT side of the truck @kenn !

Also, if you have standard BUDD rims and tandems on the rear, they sometimes get seized and the outer and inner lugs will spin off together. Lots of penetrating oil will help separate them - or torch heat.

 

[kenn]

Holy Big Nuts, Batman! I got my nut buster from amazon today. I made sure to get one with the "square" adapter. I put it on each nut and rotated (it was fun). Since it took about 15-20 lbs of pressure from the hand crank and I bought the 58:1 unit, it took about 870 to about 1160 foot pounds to bust those nuts. Literally they made a pop and then started rotating much easier. I turned the crank by hand and didn't encounter much resistance so note that I'm guessing 15-20 lbs of pressure but I could be off a good bit. This is the unit I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FV4B21K?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

ABN Torque Multiplier Wrench – Torque Multiplier 1 Inch Drive Lug Nut Wrench Torque Amplifier Lug Nut Remover

If you look at the picture, you'll see the square socket which worked perfectly on the square inner lug.

I would think having one of these IN your truck for a roadside emergency would be a God-send in getting a stuck lug off if you are changing a spare...

*** Edit *** Here's a video

 

[bprzyw]

Holy nut buster!!!! I think I need one!

 

[INFChief]

Holy nut buster!!!! I think I need one!

Slower than molasses in winter - but all that’s need is to bust the nut loose; then put a ratchet & socket on it.

 

[kenn]

Got both rear axle sides done. Passenger was way worse than driver but both had very loose axle nuts and cork seals pretty well shot. One of the axle hub bolts is threaded the whole length and 1/2" shorter than the others so I'm off to the hardware store to try to find a grade 8 replacement. I need valve stem extension for the driver side inner wheel as well. Both sides got new napa wheel cylinders and have been bled and adjusted to .015 as that is what it took to stop any metal contact sounds between the shoes and hub.

I used gear oil RTV in the keyway. I considered re-using the OEM seals as they looked to be in good condition but put the "new" ones on. They look rather craptastic in comparison to the originals but i proceeded with them anyway. We'll see.