Rear axle seal please help

[Hotrodherman]

Hey everyone I have been searching for 2 days with no luck. The insid of my back wheel is soaked with gear oil. I have never worked on a big truck. Have always built hot rods. Can anyone give me a link on how to do the seals? Step by step would be great. Sorry for the stupid question. I just could find it at all.
Thanks everyone

 

[jwaller]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?2869-rear-axle-seal-replacement-2.html

 

[cleb]

This was written by a member here, OPCOM.

M35 deuce and a half rear axle leaks

HTH

 

[Flyingvan911]

The left rear seal on my deuce leaked a little oil after I made the trip back from Fort Riley. Some ran down the side of the tire. Left a puddle on the ground about the size of a quarter. After that, it hasn't leaked since. I had tap-and-twisted the vents. I guess it was just dry seals. The thread mentioned above is good.

 

[cleb]

The left rear seal on my deuce leaked a little oil after I made the trip back from Fort Riley. Some ran down the side of the tire. Left a puddle on the ground about the size of a quarter. After that, it hasn't leaked since. I had tap-and-twisted the vents. I guess it was just dry seals. The thread mentioned above is good.

I would tear down your axles. If the oil made it out that far, it probably flushed the grease out of the bearings, and soaked your brakes with the whole mess.

 

[sandcobra164]

I just replaced one of my seals yesterday for the same reason. Once oil makes it out of the back side of the hub, the grease at minimum has been diluted / thinned by the gear oil and you're bearings should be cleaned and repacked. I'm also a simple guy who likes piece of mind of knowing that I'm keeping my truck in as good a shape as I can.

 

[mbarber84]

Hotrodherman, I just got done replacing all the seals on my truck. Its not as complicated as one might think. Once you ter into the project, you will see. Please feel free to PM me if you need any specifics, but for the most part, the links you have been given by other members in previous posts will serve as an excellent tool to help you. Best of luck! If you need anything, just PM me!

 

[Kaptin kalen]

Make sure to replace the cork tab in the key way slot and silicone it up good or it will leak again.

 

[Kaptin kalen]

P.S make sure you clean the vent in the axle.

 

[Gravel]

Just did one side on mine on Saturday, well technically I did two sides, since I pulled all the parts from my parts truck. In my case, I found the inside of the hub had been chewed up, and would have ate out the new seal in no time. Glad I have that parts truck sitting there!

 

[jpekarek]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?57099-5-ton-rear-axle-seal-fix-procedure.html

Here is a procedure I put together on my 5 ton. Should be similar.

 

[Hotrodherman]

thank you everyone for your help. im gonna tear into this project asap. now i gotta do 2 the back passenger seal let loose as wheel

 

[mbarber84]

Just another quick note, I realized I forgot to throw this in yesterday, when you go to take your hubs apart, you are going to need a 3" (8 Sided) Axle nut socket. It seems 3" is an odd ball size for most larger trucks, as my friend`s truck shop had every size imaginable BUT 3". I was able to pick one up at NAPA for $35.00 (I believe its a KD tools brand) Its nice and works perfectly, I apologize that I don't have the number for the socket on me right now, but I'm certain that the number is on the site here somewhere, as I remember reading about it. Hope everything goes smoothly!!

 

[jpekarek]

Just another quick note, I realized I forgot to throw this in yesterday, when you go to take your hubs apart, you are going to need a 3" (8 Sided) Axle nut socket. It seems 3" is an odd ball size for most larger trucks, as my friend`s truck shop had every size imaginable BUT 3". I was able to pick one up at NAPA for $35.00 (I believe its a KD tools brand) Its nice and works perfectly, I apologize that I don't have the number for the socket on me right now, but I'm certain that the number is on the site here somewhere, as I remember reading about it. Hope everything goes smoothly!!

Dont really need the socket. A small hammer and a dull chisel work wonderfully. You will probably find chisel marks on all of the axle nuts already from past jobs. Most of the military mechanics did it that way as well.

 

[mbarber84]

Agreed! I found a few that way when I did my friends truck, however his is much older and has been down the road a few more times.

I suppose I should have said "socket is preferred" as it wont chew up the nuts. Good call on that one jpekarek. Although I must admit, Ive found its nice to just have the right tool when you need it, provided its financially feasible. Also. the socket allows for a better method to apply the proper torque to the nut via a torque wrench. Cant remember the torque spec, but I DO remember that the original TM explanation is less than clear on the proper procedure for setting the inner and out nuts. As a matter of fact, I followed the original method in the TM and ended up rounding the small tab on the outer seal off ...back to the vendor for another one.....then did some homework here with a fellow member only to find that a revised bulletin in one of the TM`s suggested a much better, and more common sense approach. Did all 4 rear axle points that way and have had trouble free operation for the past 2 weeks.

Just my

Either way will get it done! Again, best of luck!

 

[sandcobra164]

torque inner nut to 50 ft.lbs., back off 1/16 to 1/4 turn, install locking plate, torque outer nut to 100-200 ft.lbs., install axle shaft, torque outer hub bolts to around 80 ft.lbs., re-install tires and call it a day. Just did this 2 days ago so the TM info is fresh in my mind.

 

[mbarber84]

Yeah! Thats the updated one.....thanks sandcobra164

 

[jpekarek]

Agreed, the proper socket is the correct way. I will eventually buy one for myself.

 

[Floridianson]

Agreed, the proper socket is the correct way. I will eventually buy one for myself.

The only way.

 

[jpekarek]

The only way.

Well, lots of ways to skin a cat. Gotta work with what you have. Or what you can afford. The sockets are $35 to $75 each. I can't afford that for something I may not ever use again.

It's nice to say that if you are going to work on something then use the right tools or don't work on it at all, but it's not very realistic.