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Rear Brake Issues

Oski1042

Member
42
47
18
Location
Moscow ID
I hope that the old timers around here will forgive the rudamentary level of this post. But I do believe there are a lot of LMTV owners that are on a steep learning curve and might find the following useful.

When driving my 1995 M1078 on a gravel road, I noticed when I braked hard, I only left marks on the front right and back left. This was consistent with noticing the truck pulling to the right when I pushed the brake. Clearly the front left and back right wheels were not braking as designed.

I started up in the front and found a deformed plunger was the problem. I believe that it had not been seated properly when it was last rebuilt. I replaced the unit, put it all back together and it now works. I also disassembled the air chamber and found it to be a very simple mechanical piece of equipment. A diaphragm and plunger is pretty much it. (In case you were curious)

On to the back right wheel. This was more interesting. When I would air the system up ... then turn it off I could hear air leaking from the aft inside cannister. Specifically right at the bracket bolt on the axle side of the cannister. I immediately thought it was a compromised diaphragm.

After watching a scary video on Youtube (thank you "Ken") about the perils of disassembling these units without caging ... I dove into taking it apart. After caging the brake I started to loosen the clamp bolts. I immediately noticed how loose the (leaking side) bolt was. So I decided to see if the problem could be just that simple. I fired up the truck, pressurized the system .... sure enough no more leak.

I then had an assistant push on the brake pedal while the truck was running and the brakes expanded as designed. So now I could turn my attention to another known problem. I had noticed that there seemed to be too much play between the hub and the pads when the brake was disengaged. Clearly it needed some adjustment. After turning the adjustments a few clicks on both sides .... the hub just barely fit back onto the wheel. From there I turned on the truck and depressed the brakes. It worked ... the brakes pressed out against the hub.

I still need to put the wheel back on and take it for a drive to test if I get four little skid marks in the gravel when I hit the brakes.

I hope this is helpful if you have similar issues with your truck.

PS: If you missed this from an earlier post .... "Floridianson" gave me the best easter present yesterday for mechanical (non-air) related brake issues...

 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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113
Location
Mason, TN
The truck is equipped with wedge brakes that auto adjust themselves everytime you hit the brake. If they are not staying in adjustment than you need to remove the wedge, disassemble, clean the wedge up and lube, then install a new wedge parts kit.

The grease inside the housing under the actuator can get pretty hard and gunked up
 
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Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,409
2,503
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
As Wess said if they do not self adjust then good cleaning. All parts including the Actuator ( adjusting bolt sleeve ) and the guide pawl assembly. I never look into buying parts but I bet if you were care full getting the seal for adjustment plunger off you could reuse it.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,130
9,405
113
Location
Mason, TN
Complete kit with pawl, seals, actuator isn't in the meritor catalog. Could piece them together from individual parts cheap though. Basically uses same as a 939 series kit for seals and actuator. Kit-1151 in meritor is a close parts kit minus the pawls
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,881
7,549
113
Location
Port angeles wa
And the guide pawls need to be put in the right way. They have a sawtooth pattern just like the drum/barrel does on the adjuster and these two saw teeth pattern must interlock...
 
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