Rear drivers head gasket bubbles?

[welpro222]

Whats the story with seeing tiny bubble coming from the head gasket at the rear of the drivers side head/block? I've had this on 2 of my trucks.

1st truck I replaced the head gaskets and ARP studs

2nd truck, not sure yet. Should I just pull one head bolt at a time and replace with ARP studs?

 

[welpro222]

Adding ARP head studs?

Is it possible to replace head bolts with arp studs without replacing head gasket?

 

[welpro222]

UPDATE:

I did a coolant pressure test, no leaks, no lose of pressure.

While engine is running, no bubbles coming from overflow tank.

No smoke or steam coming from oil filler.

Next test will be cylinder compression test.

 

[patracy]

I've not done it on a 6.2, but I've done it a few times on a 5.9 cummins. Just one by one, following the torque pattern.

 

[welpro222]

Do you torque them 25-50-100 lbs one at a time as you install each one or torque them to 50lbs then a final 100 lbs after all studs are in?

 

[doghead]

Do not start more than one thread on the same topic.

I merged them.

 

[welpro222]

Compression test is good. 380 psi low and 440 psi high and every cylinder in between, so compression is good to go.

What do you guy suggest? Add the ARP studs and leave gasket alone or go for it and replace everything?

Funds are tight so saving few hundred from not having to check and clean heads and buying gaskets would be great.

 

[welpro222]

Well I'm going to just add the studs one at a time. Plan is to: pull one bolt at a time, run thread tap to clean threads in block, then seal stud and insert into block thru heads, torque nut according to ARP instructions.

Also while i'm under valve cover I'm going to replace plastic rocker retainers with nuts and bolts.

 

[welpro222]

Stripped headbolt threads in block

Have any of you guys tried using the Time-Sert kit for fixing this problem?

I used the wrong tap for cleaning my head bolt holes, I used a m12x1.25 instead of a m12x1.75.

Luckly I only did this on one bolt hole. I was replacing the bolts with studs one at a time. When I torqued it to 100 lbs, it stripped out. Then I realized I was using the wrong tap.

Weird thing is I used this tap on my other 6.2 engine with no problems, all head studs torqued to 100lbs?

I'm hoping the time-sert kit will save my block.

 

[glaser06]

Any update on how this turned out?

 

[welpro222]

It was successful, 700 miles and counting. Doing the time sert only took a an hour, taking my time. I drilled out the hole, counter sunk it, tapped it very slowly with lots of WD-40. I then smeared red lok-tite on the insert and inserted it. After that everything went back together normally and the arp head studs got torqued down to 95 lbs. Also I went overboard with sealing the studs, I used teflon tape and I used blk RTV at the shoulder of the stud that sits against the head (should never leak). My advise to anyone about this is to buy and use the tap guide to make sure you are starting the tap straight. Other then that it seEms very solid and I see no reason why it won't last the life of the block itself.

 

[Westech]

You should never use a tap on a block or any other already tapped hole!!!!
Use a thread chaser. You are not cutting new threads only cleaning the existing ones up.
Tapping existing threads is only asking for trouble.

 

[welpro222]

lesson learned