• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Rear fuel tank m1008

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,462
10,395
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
From cutting Suburbans and K5 Blazers apart. I recall the 2 rear cross members as being different. They have a radius form to them to hold the fuel tank firmly up in place. I have a M1009 frame if you want some pictures. Let me know. But it would be easy enough if you removed the cargo bed.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
What all parts do I need to scrounge to put a large k5/Suburban poly tank in the back of my m1008?
For a Suburban tank to fit, I think you need a longer frame, for starters. Not that I remember exactly how much longer a Suburban is behind the axle compared to a pickup, but about it's about four inches.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
How about a blazer?
Can I get away with a poly Blazer tank, 20 some gallons?
Also, got a line on any of the parts I need?
A K5 tank would be easier to fit, but as mentioned earlier, it sounds like you'll have to modify/swap a cross member or two. Other than that, I'd use factory hardware and sending unit.
Firefox's suggestion of using a second side tank would be easier yet, using either an aftermarket or OE right side tank and its hardware.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,462
10,395
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I think the right and left fuel tank are the same tank. The brackets and everything are the same. I used them before. And if you don't want to cut your bed side for the fuel door Fill the right tank thru the rear wheel well opening. Could be dirty sometimes. But deal with it. It will save a lot of hacking and rust areas from cutting and welding. Just an idea.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
I think the right and left fuel tank are the same tank. The brackets and everything are the same. I used them before. And if you don't want to cut your bed side for the fuel door Fill the right tank thru the rear wheel well opening. Could be dirty sometimes. But deal with it. It will save a lot of hacking and rust areas from cutting and welding. Just an idea.
I've done exactly this before. Instead of setting up drawing fuel from 2 tanks, I used the right side tank as a transfer tank to the left side. Added a second line and could pump to other vehicles (gensets) as well.
 

sweetk30

Member
316
6
18
Location
horseheads,ny 14845
get home tonight I will try and remember to post up pics .

I remade the rear most crossmember and fabbed my own up for the front .

this was for a 31 gal blazer tanks . blazer tanks are same size except hang down a tad more for the extra capacity .

I made my brackets out of angle iron . real easy to fab up in no time.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,177
113
Location
NY
Well, I have two saddle tanks. I need a tank for wmi.
wmi?

Is this for the over the road load hauling dually with tires that are near impossible find with an intercooled motor?
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I think the brackets to the right side you will have to weld some nuts to it. I did this because I couldn't find right side brackets but I think now they are re-popping them. Not cheap though. I got some from Hillbilly Wizard with a skid pretty cheap.
 

sweetk30

Member
316
6
18
Location
horseheads,ny 14845
pics of brackets I made for blazer tank in to a k30 frame .

remove rear most crossmember and make new .

set blazer tank up in and level and fab new front for its position .

I then bolted all in with 7/16" bolts .

sorry no finished install pics .

dam forum wont display in my order of loading .

pic 1 & 3 = new front crossmember .

rest are new rear most .

note notch in sides for wires and such to pass buy them . and a lot stronger rear one even if you don't do a blazer tank .

these fit inside the frame rails and swing up flat top/bottom .

the 2 bolt set x2 is for my home made straps from THICK all metal hole strap material to make tank straps.

I think it was 2.5x2.5 or 3x3 angle.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
wmi?

Is this for the over the road load hauling dually with tires that are near impossible find with an intercooled motor?
Yes., except it's not intercooled, yet. Someday maybe.
WMI is water methanol injection.
I have a red plastic boat fuel tank in the bed. It's 2 inches to wide for the frame rails. If I can find the stuff to mount a blazer tank, I'll have some bed space back. I'll still have a plastic trunk with my batteries in it there, but at least the red tank will be gone.
BTW, I haven't had the truck running well enough yet to get the dually axle. Still finishing the shift computer wiring and dual fuel tank valve stuff.
 
Last edited:
Top